Dana 35 vs '97-up Chrysler 8.25 (side by side)
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Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
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Dana 35 vs '97-up Chrysler 8.25 (side by side)
Got 3 XJ's w/ Dana 35's. All have problems. One has a bad bearing howl, one has two bent axles, and the other won't quit driving in the carpool lane.
And since these axles are known to be weak, it's pointless to spend coin fixing them. So I got two yr 2000 Chrysler third members from recycle yards. Paid $300 for one and $250 for the other. Installed one of them in the kid's '91 this afternoon. Here is what I observed:
Chrysler axle housing & pumpkin is much beefier. (see attached pics)
Bolts right in (I got the U-bolts & spring plates)
Brake line bolts up
Driveshaft bolts up.
Ebrake cables are different and do NOT bolt up. Have not sorted that yet. May need to use older Ebrake cables on newer housing.
And since these axles are known to be weak, it's pointless to spend coin fixing them. So I got two yr 2000 Chrysler third members from recycle yards. Paid $300 for one and $250 for the other. Installed one of them in the kid's '91 this afternoon. Here is what I observed:
Chrysler axle housing & pumpkin is much beefier. (see attached pics)
Bolts right in (I got the U-bolts & spring plates)
Brake line bolts up
Driveshaft bolts up.
Ebrake cables are different and do NOT bolt up. Have not sorted that yet. May need to use older Ebrake cables on newer housing.
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Year: 1989
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Cool pics. Why didn't you go with a disc brake conversion, though? Or are you going to with the 8.25? Just curious.
I sure would as long as I had the rear out, regardless of what kind.
example:
http://www.myxj.net/blog/rear-disc-b...825-rear-axle/
I sure would as long as I had the rear out, regardless of what kind.
example:
http://www.myxj.net/blog/rear-disc-b...825-rear-axle/
Last edited by Stabsthedrama; 12-12-2014 at 07:55 AM.
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Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
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Cool pics. Why didn't you go with a disc brake conversion, though? Or are you going to with the 8.25? Just curious.
I sure would as long as I had the rear out, regardless of what kind.
example:
http://www.myxj.net/blog/rear-disc-b...825-rear-axle/
I sure would as long as I had the rear out, regardless of what kind.
example:
http://www.myxj.net/blog/rear-disc-b...825-rear-axle/
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Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
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On initial observation the original D35 driveshaft appeared to fit right in, with plenty of yoke showing on the t-case end w/ the rear suspension at full droop. I have the driveshaft for the 8.25 as well; I'll measure and compare.
QUOTE=SeriousOffroad;2992111]U-bolts stretch and should never be robbed for re-use from any rig.[/QUOTE]
Of course this is true, in theory. But in real life, LOTS of people re-use U-bolts without any problems. Especially if the U-bolts are of adequate size, in good condition, and the vehicle never really sees any hard use.
QUOTE=SeriousOffroad;2992111]U-bolts stretch and should never be robbed for re-use from any rig.[/QUOTE]
Of course this is true, in theory. But in real life, LOTS of people re-use U-bolts without any problems. Especially if the U-bolts are of adequate size, in good condition, and the vehicle never really sees any hard use.
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Serious is correct some fasteners the U-Bolts among them should never be reused along with many in the engine. BTW exactly how do you tell if a fastener is in "Good Condition", I've been racing for well over 40 yrs. and never figured that one out other than to replace.
But hey its your kids Jeep all that could happen is the rear end could fall out of it sometime, no big deal.
But hey its your kids Jeep all that could happen is the rear end could fall out of it sometime, no big deal.
Last edited by Fred/N0AZZ; 12-12-2014 at 11:32 AM.
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Serious is correct some fasteners the U-Bolts among them should never be reused along with many in the engine. BTW exactly how do you tell if a fastener is in "Good Condition", I've been racing for well over 40 yrs. and never figured that one out other than to replace.
But hey its your kids Jeep all that could happen is the rear end could fall out of it sometime, no big deal.
But hey its your kids Jeep all that could happen is the rear end could fall out of it sometime, no big deal.
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Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
Model: Cherokee
So it's in and done. 2001 8.25 rear end into 1991 XJ. Here's how it ended up:
Axle bolts right in with 8.25 specific U-bolts and spring plates. Yeah, I reused the U-bolts, but I had them blessed by the local priest so its OK.
Driveshaft for 8.25 is about 2" shorter (Serious was right). Installed new Spicer joints, slapped it in and called it good.
Brakes were junk. Carefully unhooked the entire brake mechanism from the D35 and swapped it over to the 8.25, using the 8.25 E-brake actuator arm and E-brake cables from the 1991 XJ. Drums too; wire cup on 4" grinder made quick work of cleaning those up.
Changed out the rear brake line for 1994 Wrangler (YJ) line which is longer.
Dumped in almost 2 qts of synthetic 75w-90...and away we go. Damn thing almost drives like a new jeep.
.
Axle bolts right in with 8.25 specific U-bolts and spring plates. Yeah, I reused the U-bolts, but I had them blessed by the local priest so its OK.
Driveshaft for 8.25 is about 2" shorter (Serious was right). Installed new Spicer joints, slapped it in and called it good.
Brakes were junk. Carefully unhooked the entire brake mechanism from the D35 and swapped it over to the 8.25, using the 8.25 E-brake actuator arm and E-brake cables from the 1991 XJ. Drums too; wire cup on 4" grinder made quick work of cleaning those up.
Changed out the rear brake line for 1994 Wrangler (YJ) line which is longer.
Dumped in almost 2 qts of synthetic 75w-90...and away we go. Damn thing almost drives like a new jeep.
.
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Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
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If you install a U-bolt on a rear end like this, it's important to ensure that you have the thing perpendicular to the axle housing tube. If it's off just a cun...uh..a few millimeters or so and sets that way when you tighten it, then after you hit a few bumps it might shift and move towards perpendicular and lose some of that tightness. Then you would need to re-torque....
It's also important to tighten the nuts on both ends equally, so you're pulling the U-bolt straight up and not trying to drag it around the axle housing.
I wire wheeled the axle, and the U-bolts too, and then greased the bottom of the U so the damn things would pull up where they're supposed to be and not end up cockeyed. I rapped 'em with a hammer while I torqued 'em. And I'll check & re-torque in a few days.
I was kidding about the priest. I don't believe in that stuff.
Last edited by goatherder; 12-12-2014 at 10:46 PM.
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How many torque cycles have those junkyard u-bolts been through?.....................I don't know the answer either. There is absolutely no way to know what that XJ had been through before it made it to the yard. Certain parts from the junkyard just shouldn't be re-used, especially when they are solely responsible for keeping the rear end connected to the vehicle. Here's a set from Currie for $26. http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=3952
Last edited by LAF1269; 12-12-2014 at 11:22 PM.
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Year: 2001
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Ok, lets think about U-bolts for a minute.
If you install a U-bolt on a rear end like this, it's important to ensure that you have the thing perpendicular to the axle housing tube. If it's off just a cun...uh..a few millimeters or so and sets that way when you tighten it, then after you hit a few bumps it might shift and move towards perpendicular and lose some of that tightness. Then you would need to re-torque....
It's also important to tighten the nuts on both ends equally, so you're pulling the U-bolt straight up and not trying to drag it around the axle housing.
I wire wheeled the axle, and the U-bolts too, and then greased the bottom of the U so the damn things would pull up where they're supposed to be and not end up cockeyed. I rapped 'em with a hammer while I torqued 'em. And I'll check & re-torque in a few days.
I was kidding about the priest. I don't believe in that stuff.
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New ubolts every time is ridiculous. I've never replaced one and never had one fail, from race cars to big rigs. I've also never seen it required or even recommended in any repair manual or by any OE manufacturer. Anyone who thinks that every critical fastener is a one time use item should start replacing their wheel studs, U-joint fasteners, bumper bolts, spring eye bolts, caliper bolts....where does it end?
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Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
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Of course, like a lot of scary stuff...it hardly ever happens.
New ubolts every time is ridiculous. I've never replaced one and never had one fail, from race cars to big rigs. I've also never seen it required or even recommended in any repair manual or by any OE manufacturer. Anyone who thinks that every critical fastener is a one time use item should start replacing their wheel studs, U-joint fasteners, bumper bolts, spring eye bolts, caliper bolts....where does it end?
Me I don't do dogma, I just try to share information...so if some other schmuck comes along and wants to do what I did, he might have the benefit of knowing what he's up against.