Dana 30 Front locker?
#1
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Dana 30 Front locker?
Anyone have any suggestions on front lockers? I have a 97 XJ 4.0. 3.55 gears. aussie locker in back. was thinking of putting in a ECTED in the front but haven't decided. any suggestions?
#4
For your safety and others. I'm sticking with what I posted before. Those 2 lockers can be disengaged for street driving. I drove with a powertrax in the front for a second and it just wasted good.
#6
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
How exactly does an OX locker work?
what kind of selectable? I know all of them, just wanting some info on ones yall suggest and why.
#7
Yup! I think just about every fella out there with experience will tell ya selectable. More expensive. But way more versatile. Seems alot of folks have ARB so doing field repairs might be easy. I like OX lockers. But probably not as field repairable if your the only fella out there with one.
However people will say each locker has it's plus and minuses. Which is true. If your not rock climbing crazy stuff and stay up on your maintenance. You should be okay. ARB is great too b/c you need a compressor. Get a compressor big enough to take care of both the locker and have the ability to air up your tires.
The OX locker is controlled with a cable vs. ARB with air. Some say the cable stretches over time and some say the ARB leaks. Sure they do, but under what kind of load and wheeling and how often does it happen? It's all relative. How well you maintain your rig and how you wheel (driving & Terrain).
My one word of advise. Don't listen to knuckles heads tell you one sucks over the other. Those things are so bloody expensive the fella telling you this can't afford one and has no personal experience. With that said. I've only got experience with Detroit lockers, Powertrax, and OX. Can't say anything negative about a one. Minus the expense.
However people will say each locker has it's plus and minuses. Which is true. If your not rock climbing crazy stuff and stay up on your maintenance. You should be okay. ARB is great too b/c you need a compressor. Get a compressor big enough to take care of both the locker and have the ability to air up your tires.
The OX locker is controlled with a cable vs. ARB with air. Some say the cable stretches over time and some say the ARB leaks. Sure they do, but under what kind of load and wheeling and how often does it happen? It's all relative. How well you maintain your rig and how you wheel (driving & Terrain).
My one word of advise. Don't listen to knuckles heads tell you one sucks over the other. Those things are so bloody expensive the fella telling you this can't afford one and has no personal experience. With that said. I've only got experience with Detroit lockers, Powertrax, and OX. Can't say anything negative about a one. Minus the expense.
Last edited by 07Negative; 06-29-2010 at 03:49 PM.
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#8
Another ideal. You could get the Warn manual locking hubs and throw in a Aussie locker or the such. This will beef up your front axle while still retaining a locker, but a lesser expensive locker.
Some guys will talk crap about a D30 axle but I've seen plenty of guys wheel the crap out of them while running 35" tires and a locker.
This fella is a prime example of what I'm talkin about. His book is freakin killer!
http://www.ericsxj.com/
Some guys will talk crap about a D30 axle but I've seen plenty of guys wheel the crap out of them while running 35" tires and a locker.
This fella is a prime example of what I'm talkin about. His book is freakin killer!
http://www.ericsxj.com/
#9
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
why no auto locker in the front?
cheap and reliable...
I run a Lock Rite in my HP D30 and love it.
sure you have minor understeer but as long as your on a surface that allows the other tire to slip you dont even notice it.
cheap and reliable...
I run a Lock Rite in my HP D30 and love it.
sure you have minor understeer but as long as your on a surface that allows the other tire to slip you dont even notice it.
#10
But again. We all have different circumstances for driving and whatnot.
There are so many ways to approach building ones rig. Some times it's trial and error. Finding out what works out best for ones self.
Personally, I'd love to have manual locking hubs up front with Detroit lockers in front and rear. That's my ideal setup.
Last edited by 07Negative; 06-30-2010 at 01:10 PM.
#12
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
ya but to fit an ECTED in a Dana 30 you have to grind the gear side bearing cap, and you need to trim the shims on the magnet side to get them to sit flush....sounds like too much work...unless your re-gearing while your at it.
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Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0L with throttle body spacer and cold air intake, bored throttle body, #784 injector upgrade
front locker.
Running a mechanical limited slip up front from detroit and love it. just my 2 cents.
#14
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Year: 2000
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Aussie is on it's way into my HP D30 and my Jeep is my daily driver. I have had auto lockers in my past Toyota 4wd DDs and never had any issues. The bad rap auto lockers have is just internet nonsense. Someone who couldn't handle simple driving corrections had a problem and ever since its just turned into an urban legend that they are NON streetable and trail rig applicable only.
#15
^ agreeing with this too. And thus is how urban meths start. Besides, there's far too many doh doh's on the internet blabbin away with no real hand experience with stuff. And then the knuckle heads at places like 4Wheel parts and what not also giving out not so accurate info. Trial and error if anything
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