Well its time to replace my hub bearings. Just started a bad front end rumble. Question is I've read that you should replace the hub as an assembly rather than pressing in new bearings. And, I've found a # of aftermarket suppliers of cheaply priced assemblies. Just wondering which one to buy. Any suggestions?

 

D30 unit bearing hubs are not rebuildable.

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/wheel-bearing-42289/

Links are in thread to other pages for more information. I did mine last week and both U joints. Used the Hubs from Summit Racing. Look up the correct hub for your year. They are made in usa. Made a lot of difference. Get a big torque wrench and spray with PB Blaster. Hardest part is geting the old hub off and the U joints.

 

Timken. Rockauto.com good price and the older ones are still US made believe it or not. 99 and up ones are not unfortunatly.

 

Amazon sells the Timken ones for my 98'. Part #513084, $91.44 each with free shipping, directly from Amazon, not another seller. Yes, more than Rockauto.

 

So timkin are the bearings of choice it looks like. Thanks for all your suggestions!

 

Update: cannot get the axle nut loose!!! Four foot breaker bar x 240lbs equals almost 1000ft lbs and cannot budge it! I snapped both my breaker bars and didn't budge the damn thing. I do not have access to any heat. Suggestions. I'm frozen and frustrated!

 

I sprayed the axle nut with Moove-It and left is overnight and it came off with an impact gun. I did my ball joints and wheel hub assemblies 2 weekends ago.

 

Yeah think ill spray heavy with some pb and head to sears for some redlacement bars and try again tomorrow

 

Yeah, we had no problem removing the axle nut. Try using an impact gun, it may work for you.

 

PB Blaster is good for soaking, but that takes time to let it sink in.

I'm not sure this would get it hot enough, but you could spend $15 on a MAPP gas torch and try that for heat? Like I said, that may not get hot enough.

 

I was thinking of that. Though I doubt the heat would be anough. I don't have access to impact either. If I can't break it loose tomorrow after the pb, I may have to bring it to a shop.. gotta get this done due to a 300 mile drive to work next week.

 

MAPP gas will not get it hot enough, ask me how I know.

I had to cut the nut almost all the way off. I cut a portion of it off using a dremel, steady hand and patience. Once I got enough material cut away I chipped at using a chisel and then sprayed/soaked it with PB. Once the PB sat for a few hours I put the rotor, caliper, wheel/tire combo back on. Set her on the ground and then used a 1/2in breaker with a four foot cheater to get the nut loose.

Good luck, my way was not the easiest but it was the best I could do without a real torch.

 

Sorry got kicked off line for while. My son reset my internet connection. Yeah I was thinking of using the dremel don't want this to turn into a nightmare though. This nut was off a few month ago had to get the front u's replaced and didn't have any time so I brought it to a shop. I may call them in the morning and complain about howtight this nut is. Is their a specific torque rating for it?

 

The wheel nut torque setting is 175 ft lbs from what I have read.