wheel bearing
03-24-2010, 09:37 PM
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
wheel bearing
im changing my wheel bearing on Friday just wondering if anyone has any tips never done one before
03-24-2010, 10:11 PM
#3
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Heat, PB Blaster, 13mm 12 pt socket or you will strip the bolts and lots of will power and muscle unless you have good air tools. Also a 35mm socket for the spindle nuts. Also replace the spindle nuts, you can get the kits at any auto parts store.
Now this is all assuming you mean the front hub/bearing.
If it's the rear then it's all different.
Now this is all assuming you mean the front hub/bearing.
If it's the rear then it's all different.
03-24-2010, 10:53 PM
#5
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Year: 1996 Limited
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
Yes a 12 point is a must. Mine was a 1/2" 12 point. but its not bad just take your time and do one side at a time so you can keep looking over to make sure its going back together the right way. But its pretty easy. O a torque wrench.
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Sorry about that.
03-25-2010, 05:48 AM
#10
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 v8
MAKE SURE you double check the 13mm vs 1/2 in 12 point though. The 13 fit on mine when I did them, but stripped a few. The 12 fit a bit more snug, and took the rest off with ease.
As everyone else said, good air tools, or lots of muscle and preferably 1/2 in drive breaker bars and sockets.
Just as reinforcement the axle nut is 36mm.
Instead of jamming something in the U joint, you can always pop it in 4x4 before tearing into it, that should help keep things from turning while wrenching.
x8000 on the PB blast. Start spraying things days a head of time. You wont regret that...
As everyone else said, good air tools, or lots of muscle and preferably 1/2 in drive breaker bars and sockets.
Just as reinforcement the axle nut is 36mm.
Instead of jamming something in the U joint, you can always pop it in 4x4 before tearing into it, that should help keep things from turning while wrenching.
x8000 on the PB blast. Start spraying things days a head of time. You wont regret that...
03-25-2010, 09:57 AM
#12
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
MAKE SURE you double check the 13mm vs 1/2 in 12 point though. The 13 fit on mine when I did them, but stripped a few. The 12 fit a bit more snug, and took the rest off with ease.
As everyone else said, good air tools, or lots of muscle and preferably 1/2 in drive breaker bars and sockets.
Just as reinforcement the axle nut is 36mm.
Instead of jamming something in the U joint, you can always pop it in 4x4 before tearing into it, that should help keep things from turning while wrenching.
x8000 on the PB blast. Start spraying things days a head of time. You wont regret that...
As everyone else said, good air tools, or lots of muscle and preferably 1/2 in drive breaker bars and sockets.
Just as reinforcement the axle nut is 36mm.
Instead of jamming something in the U joint, you can always pop it in 4x4 before tearing into it, that should help keep things from turning while wrenching.
x8000 on the PB blast. Start spraying things days a head of time. You wont regret that...
03-25-2010, 01:18 PM
#13
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
I use a 12pt 13mm socket for the 3 bolts, and 36mm for the hub nut on a 98.
Also, a trick I used for getting the old hub off if it is stuck, once you have the rotor, hub nut, and three bolts out, put the wheel back on with a few lug nuts and give the tire a few good mule kicks, comes right off just about every time.
Also, a trick I used for getting the old hub off if it is stuck, once you have the rotor, hub nut, and three bolts out, put the wheel back on with a few lug nuts and give the tire a few good mule kicks, comes right off just about every time.
03-25-2010, 01:24 PM
#14
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: ???
I did mine yesterday. 12 pt 13mm, or 12pt 1/2 in the same thing, 36mm on hub, and I used an air chisel to seperate the barring from the hub. Both sides in 1 1/2 hours
03-25-2010, 02:02 PM
#15
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Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Make sure you take all the PB Blaster comments seriously and start spraying stuff now. Also, source a good length of pipe to use as a cheater bar to get the axle nut off, and I think may have even used my smaller pipe to break the 3 hub bolts loose. (I have a piece of pipe from a chain link fence rail about 5 feet long, and another about 2 feet). Once out, I put a wire wheel on a drill motor and clean up the hub body mounting surface and use anti-seize before putting the new bearing in, and I also put a thin coat on the splines of the axle. Final thought would be to get Timken bearings.