Everyone already gave you good advice. I used this unit when I did mine.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WBI-513084/

The one from Summit is American made in Michigan, so I had to help my state ecomony.

 

when i did mine on my 00 xj it was a breeze three bolts and an axle nut and i was done i was shocked completly because everyone said the same thing they told you and mine was a sinch( and i live in NEPA salt like crazy) i would deff. replace u-joints wile ur in there tho. so let us know how it goes

 

x2 on the anti seize. This can be a life save on the trail.

 

WAY EASY WITH A AIR CHISEL.

 

try searching youtube....... seems somebody has posted instructional videos on just about anything anyone would ever want to do with/to a vehicle

 

All above is great advise.......My pass side just came wright out but the drivers side was frozen in I broke a puller the first night trying to get it out ....so the next day I did the extension between the hub.....the axle and hub came out as one the hub frozen on the axle so I let it soak over night with pb and I used a hevey duty 3 jaw puller and and impact on the puller at 160psi....It came off......all total just make sure you are up on your cus words and have plenty of time good luck

 

some of the best advice in here

 

I just leave mine on the ground when I break the a 36 mm loose? using a stock wheel makes it easy.

 

+100million. I just did mine i did em the other day. Cake, except the hub assembly had rustwelded itself and i nearly destroyed my backing platetrying to remove it. My truck is an 89 and its mint with no rust, however these hub assemblies I'm sure havent been removed since then.

I would hate to see you pull the 3 bolts and axle nut out, and be stuck trying to pull out the hub assembly. Dont know how I would have managed without my air chisel, if you run into that problem, pull the tie rod, rotate it as far as you can to one side, get a nice bar and hammer and smack it off to the point where you can get a pry bar behind it and pop em out. You'll see what I'm talking about when you do it, and if you have any troubles this should help you a lot. Good luck!

 

x2. Thats what I have done. I used a slide hammer puller for pulling the hub off also. Came off really easy that way. Well easy I guess. Smear some never sieze on the new part before install.

 

Yes if you can access it with the wheel on a good way to be able to loosen that spindle nut.

I will be changing mine out this weekend along with new pads. rotors and what not.

Also when you change the hubs and you take the spindle nut goto your local parts shop and get the spindle nut kit. Comes with nut, cap, washer and cotter pin. You never ever and I mean never put the old spindle nut back on.

 

once you remove the 36mm nut, then remove the top 13mm 12pt bolt but leave the other 2 in half way, then leave the socket and ratchet on the bolt and turn the steering wheel until the ratchet head makes contact with the knuckle, then with a bit more force, turn the steering wheel until you feel the hub pop free. you may or may not have to do the same with the other bolt.
but then once you remove the bolts, the hub will just fall on the floor.

 

why not put the old nut back on?

 

When you remove that spindle nut it flexes and is stressed. You have to realize those nuts are old as snot on these jeeps, rusty and so on. So for the added $5 per wheel is well worth the added safety and piece of mind. Not to mention my FSM even says not to reuse it. Also make sure you torque it back down to proper specs. The torque for the spindle nut on an XJ D30 4WD is 175 Ft LB's...

 

that makes sense and thats what i figured the deal was. good tip for sure.