I hate to be a nark, but I am 100% sure the "Powertrain Diagnostic Manual" I linked tells you exactly what to do next if you have battery voltage at pin 30

Tell ya what, hang on, I will look the bastard up myself and paste the flowchart for ya

* Too much of a pita to upload all that stuff, look at page 162, and pages 300-305

Ignore talk of DRB, you can make do with a multimeter

I did not look, but it should also cover testing for your "Engine Check Light" situation

there is no other way to fix things like this

 

Good morning. With the ignition in the on position and using the voltmeter at pin #30 (output to fuel pump) 12.33 volts. Conversely, with the probe on the positive side of battery and the other probe in pin #87 (- coil) -12.31. Also, did a continuity check from negative side of battery terminal and pin #87 has continuity. Installed a new relay I had in a box never used tightened the pins in the PDC; nothing. Thank you.

CPS = Good / Coil = Good / Relay = Good / Battery = Good / Distributor Sensor = Good

 

Good afternoon. ***UPDATE*** Replaced the PCM Jeep started up. As soon as the key was turned to the on position the "Check Engine Light" was on. When I took apart the old PCM the electronics were in this rubber solution I could tell immediately one of the two capacitors was about twice the size of the other. Many times when things get fixed we don't report back. I want to thank each of you who chimed in and helped me diagnose my issue. This forum has never let me down. You guys are the best without a doubt. I hope others who look at this thread might find it helpful. Again, thanks for all your help.