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Clutch issues

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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 04:19 PM
  #1  
pa96xj's Avatar
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From: Schuylkill County PA
Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0 HO I-6
Default Clutch issues

I just replaced the clutch master cyl and bled my clutch and now the pedal sits about 4" from the floor instead of the normal 8" or 9". Very hard to get it into gear and when you pull out it grabs about a centimeter off the floor. I'm leaning towards the clutch pedal being bent. Anyone have any pics of a straight pedal compared to a bent one?
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 06:33 PM
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Im having the exact same issue and have been trying to fix it for MONTHS. Hope one of us can track down the issue. How many miles on your XJ?
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 07:19 PM
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Have you looked at the adjustment of the cable or linkage? Maybe that's it.
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 07:35 PM
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Still got air in there .
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 03:53 PM
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From: Schuylkill County PA
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It's a hydraulic system I didn't think there was a cable or linkage. If the pedal is bent than it won't properly bleed right so yes there prob still is air in it. I just have to get my pedal off to see if I can tell if its bent or not.

My 94 xj country had 161xxx on it.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Still got air in there .
yeeeeeeeeeeeep
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 04:37 PM
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To bleed it you need two people if theres a bleeder ,yu push pedal half way down open bleeder then push pedal to floor close bleeder . Keep bleeding this way until pedal get good . checking fluid every couple of times . one other thing a member on here had a inner rubber cup inside his master made it difficult to bleed he removed it and pedal beed fine.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by pa96xj
I just replaced the clutch master cyl and bled my clutch and now the pedal sits about 4" from the floor instead of the normal 8" or 9". Very hard to get it into gear and when you pull out it grabs about a centimeter off the floor. I'm leaning towards the clutch pedal being bent. Anyone have any pics of a straight pedal compared to a bent one?
I tore up 4 clutch masters over about a six month time frame until someone got me pointed in the right direction. The clutch pedal on the brake/clutch assembly can break at the weld that the pivot pin goes through, or in my case, the metal fatigued at the first "s" down from the tube. Threw the geometry off about 1/4 inch (difficult to see laying upside down in the footwell) and it caused the master to break at the plastic end where it formed with the metal cylinder rod.

You asked for pictures - these are all of the bad pedal. The short actuator arm with the stud should be parallel, and not twisted, to the pedal arm.


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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 10:05 AM
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From: Schuylkill County PA
Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0 HO I-6
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Thanks for the pics Darrell.

I think I have my pedal linkage twisted because when all this went down and my pedal was hard as a rock I was putting some serious leg into it and finally got it to go to the floor with little pressure. Now the pedal sits a few inches off the floor and when I removed and replaced the new master it was a ***** trying to get the plastic end on and off.
I'm wondering if the pedal is twisted and I straighten it if the pedal will be sitting in its normal location again. And then I can properly bleed it because the pedal will have it's full length of travel.
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 12:16 PM
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From: Schuylkill County PA
Year: 1994
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PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!

Just removed the clutch pedal and as soon as I got it in my hands I can see it was twisted. Over to vise I went with a pipe wrench and straightened it out. Got it all back up in place and you wouldn't believe it but the plastic end on the master rod just fell right onto the pin. I was in awe. No pliers, no screwdrivers it just slipped on. I then got out and looked at the pedals and look at that both brake and clutch were even with each other.
Check the fluid in the master it was full. Didn't try and bleed it again and took it for a spin. Drives nice.
The only issue with it now is that the clutch grabs real high and almost feels like I'm in a Vw with those super soft clutches that you can't even feel. Will bleeding it again make the pedal a little stiffer and grab at a different spot?

Thanks everyone for all your input.
Amen to cherokeeforum. You can find anything and if you can't someone most likely went through the same prob you are and can chime in with some insight.

Here's a pic of my twisted arm. It wasn't off by much but man did it make a difference.


Clutch issues-image-3937389713.jpg



Clutch issues-image-4131764459.jpg
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 12:18 PM
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From: Schuylkill County PA
Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by TABonifacio
Im having the exact same issue and have been trying to fix it for MONTHS. Hope one of us can track down the issue. How many miles on your XJ?
Pull off your clutch pedal. 18mm socket and wrench. And most likely if you are having a hard time getting the plastic end of the master rod on and off its gotta be bent.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by pa96xj
Thanks for the pics Darrell.

I think I have my pedal linkage twisted because when all this went down and my pedal was hard as a rock I was putting some serious leg into it and finally got it to go to the floor with little pressure. Now the pedal sits a few inches off the floor and when I removed and replaced the new master it was a ***** trying to get the plastic end on and off.
I'm wondering if the pedal is twisted and I straighten it if the pedal will be sitting in its normal location again. And then I can properly bleed it because the pedal will have it's full length of travel.
This is exactly the way mine went. Same twist. The clutch and brake pedal distance from the floorboard should match nearly exactly. I kept thinking it was an issue with the clutch master and the pressure was just fubared and it wasn't returning to the correct spot.

I'd be careful with the repair you made. That metal is fatigued, it's likely to do it again. May last a while, but I would guess it will fail, probably break, at the point where it's been fatigued. Better idea would be to replace the pedal, or to at least run a weld bead in the 90 degree bend where it failed on you. You should be able to find a clutch pedal - not an easy find, but they're out there.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 07:23 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by DarrellXJ

This is exactly the way mine went. Same twist. The clutch and brake pedal distance from the floorboard should match nearly exactly. I kept thinking it was an issue with the clutch master and the pressure was just fubared and it wasn't returning to the correct spot.

I'd be careful with the repair you made. That metal is fatigued, it's likely to do it again. May last a while, but I would guess it will fail, probably break, at the point where it's been fatigued. Better idea would be to replace the pedal, or to at least run a weld bead in the 90 degree bend where it failed on you. You should be able to find a clutch pedal - not an easy find, but they're out there.
True. Now I know if the pedal ever goes solid DO NOT force it.

New prob now. Went to bleed it and stripped the Allen plug on the slave. Anyone know what else will thread into that hole? I can prob get it back out but don't know what I can put in its place. I was thinking of taking the plug out and drilling the Allen home a tad bigger and sticking a 1/4" bold in the home and welding it so if I ever had to bleed it again all I need is a 7/16" wrench. Not sure if it will work though.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 09:18 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by pa96xj
True. Now I know if the pedal ever goes solid DO NOT force it.

New prob now. Went to bleed it and stripped the Allen plug on the slave. Anyone know what else will thread into that hole? I can prob get it back out but don't know what I can put in its place. I was thinking of taking the plug out and drilling the Allen home a tad bigger and sticking a 1/4" bold in the home and welding it so if I ever had to bleed it again all I need is a 7/16" wrench. Not sure if it will work though.
Boy, not sure about this. Yours is a '94, mine is a '93 and there is no hex head there. Has a bleeder valve just like on brake lines. Really not sure what you have there. Sorry
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