Clunking sound when I put it into gear?
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Clunking sound when I put it into gear?
Hey guys, when I put my Cherokee (1998 XJ Sport, Automatic) into gear, it makes a clunking sound and jerks forward/backward depending on what gear im going into. Is this normal? If not, what do I need to do to fix it?
Thanks
Thanks
#3
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Year: 1987 MJ, 1998 XJ, 1973 J2000, 89 waggy
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
i'm about 95% sure its the u-joint on the rear of your driveshaft...
if your not that mechanically inclined then here's what u do:
if u can.... get to level ground... parking lot or where-ever and put your jeep in nuetral..... then crawl underneath it and where your driveshaft connects with your rear axle... try to turn the driveshaft.. if it shifts a little bit like a clunk. then its your u-joint....
your driveshaft should not turn at all, maybe a very little but it shouldn't clunk or move....
if your not that mechanically inclined then here's what u do:
if u can.... get to level ground... parking lot or where-ever and put your jeep in nuetral..... then crawl underneath it and where your driveshaft connects with your rear axle... try to turn the driveshaft.. if it shifts a little bit like a clunk. then its your u-joint....
your driveshaft should not turn at all, maybe a very little but it shouldn't clunk or move....
#4
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
I have a clunk when I put it into gear as well. I checked the rear drive shaft and it is tight. However, the front drive shaft does make a clunk when I twist it. Is it possible that the front drive shaft is what is making this noise? The yoke from the TC and from to the front diff both move with it, so does it make sense that U-joint would be the culprit?
#5
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Check closer at the u-joints. Mine did that an it was the niddle bearings on the rear drive shaft that are held by the U-joints. So i'm putting my money on that which let me tell ya is not alot.
#6
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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ok thanks guys, i'll check that out tomorrow. If that is the problem, what would I have to do to fix it? As much info as possible would be good because I don't have much experience with these driveshafts and axles. (my last car was a 1992 Honda Civic)
#7
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O.
also try to tap it with a hammer on the caps if it moves its bad i had to do that with mine because i couldnt move it by hand but it was bad when i pulled it apart
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#8
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Year: 1987 MJ, 1998 XJ, 1973 J2000, 89 waggy
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
well i will tell you the basic procedure because its a little more complicating and can be problematic at times...
what your gonna do is:
-Removed driveshaft (8mm 12point combination wrench)
- inspet u-joint thoroughly (check the rubber seals around the u-joint cap.....toward the inside of the u-joint)
- there are retainer clips that hold the caps from the inside of the D-shaft hoops
*take a flat head/tip screwdriver and pry the clips off the u-joint cap, some could jsut pop off and some could take some force with a BFH
- next take an old socket or something firm and that is ruffly the diameter of the u-joint cap, ( must be slighty smaller ) and place it on the cap then hammer away until you notice movement
*again this could take minutes or could take dozens of minutes, either way switch sides after a short while and do so until the caps can be removed out of the d-shaft sleeves/hoops/rings or w/e u want to call them
*then finagle the old u-joint free
-next take some sand paper or a half moon file and file the inside surface of the d-shaft hoops/rings until smooth and clean (basically till they shine, but don't file away too much, just file away enough to clear all possible dirt/rust/etc from the hoops....
-now the fun part which is commonly the most frustrating part... putting the new u-joint on
-remove 2 caps from the u-joint (don't matter which 2 as long as they are across from eachother
-next finagle the u-joint to the center of the hoops {+} something like that
-then gently slide one of the caps into the hoops.... be sure to keep the cap straight or things will go bad.....
after forcing the cap lightly about halfway through the hoop/ring, slide the u-joint into the cap
*this is the frustrating part... if not done carefully and correctly, the needle bearings will fall over and your u-joint will not fit properly
*so be sure to go nice and easy and make sure that none of the needle bearings are fallen over inside the cap...
-then take the other cap and do the same for the opposite side, and again slowly and carefully with gentle ease tap the cap into the hoop/ring
once that side is started slide the u-joint carefully between the 2 caps to be sure that the caps are properly lined up and again that none of the needle bearings have fallen out of place
-if the u-joint slides freely between both caps and slides completely flush then tap both caps toward the inside of the hoops/rings
-slide one side all the way in until u can re-install the retaining clips that were removed earlier (when you buy a u joint they will be included)
-next switch to the other side and do the same, tap the cap in until the retaining clip can be "clipped" in
*if done propperly both clips should "clip" in with ease, Maybe some extra tapping of the caps but they should go in just fine.... if they do not....(commonly one side may not because of a fallen needle bearing) then you must basically start all over again
i know this was a long one but its the best way i could explain how to do it......
let me know how things go
what your gonna do is:
-Removed driveshaft (8mm 12point combination wrench)
- inspet u-joint thoroughly (check the rubber seals around the u-joint cap.....toward the inside of the u-joint)
- there are retainer clips that hold the caps from the inside of the D-shaft hoops
*take a flat head/tip screwdriver and pry the clips off the u-joint cap, some could jsut pop off and some could take some force with a BFH
- next take an old socket or something firm and that is ruffly the diameter of the u-joint cap, ( must be slighty smaller ) and place it on the cap then hammer away until you notice movement
*again this could take minutes or could take dozens of minutes, either way switch sides after a short while and do so until the caps can be removed out of the d-shaft sleeves/hoops/rings or w/e u want to call them
*then finagle the old u-joint free
-next take some sand paper or a half moon file and file the inside surface of the d-shaft hoops/rings until smooth and clean (basically till they shine, but don't file away too much, just file away enough to clear all possible dirt/rust/etc from the hoops....
-now the fun part which is commonly the most frustrating part... putting the new u-joint on
-remove 2 caps from the u-joint (don't matter which 2 as long as they are across from eachother
-next finagle the u-joint to the center of the hoops {+} something like that
-then gently slide one of the caps into the hoops.... be sure to keep the cap straight or things will go bad.....
after forcing the cap lightly about halfway through the hoop/ring, slide the u-joint into the cap
*this is the frustrating part... if not done carefully and correctly, the needle bearings will fall over and your u-joint will not fit properly
*so be sure to go nice and easy and make sure that none of the needle bearings are fallen over inside the cap...
-then take the other cap and do the same for the opposite side, and again slowly and carefully with gentle ease tap the cap into the hoop/ring
once that side is started slide the u-joint carefully between the 2 caps to be sure that the caps are properly lined up and again that none of the needle bearings have fallen out of place
-if the u-joint slides freely between both caps and slides completely flush then tap both caps toward the inside of the hoops/rings
-slide one side all the way in until u can re-install the retaining clips that were removed earlier (when you buy a u joint they will be included)
-next switch to the other side and do the same, tap the cap in until the retaining clip can be "clipped" in
*if done propperly both clips should "clip" in with ease, Maybe some extra tapping of the caps but they should go in just fine.... if they do not....(commonly one side may not because of a fallen needle bearing) then you must basically start all over again
i know this was a long one but its the best way i could explain how to do it......
let me know how things go
#9
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
if your driveshafts arent the problem it might be your gears in your rear axle if the gear mesh isnt right they will make a clunking sound when going into gear but start with your driveshafts thats much easier to fix
#10
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L - 6 Cyl
My '00 XJ just started doing the same thing. very noticeable when shifting from reverse to drive. i checked the u-bolts on rear springs/axle and found one set loose on passenger side. tightened them up and "clunking" went away!
#11
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
How many miles on your XJ? Put a couple hundred thousand miles on a light truck axle and you'll get clunk from the wear in the rear end.
#13
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Are you guys sure it isn't normal. It could just be a little noise from driveline slack when the gear is engaged. Since it's an automatic when you put it in gear some tension is suddenly put on the driveline, and when you shift into reverse the tension goes the other way. Mine makes some noise and the Jeep jerks a bit when I put in drive or reverse and have the brake on. If I shift into either gear and don't have my foot on the brake, there isn't much noise, and the Jeep will start to move in that direction. Either way, it seems like a normal thing to me, and I don't worry about it.
#14
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Well like i said mine clunked and jerked just like his. And at the time i was replace the axle anyways to put in a SYE and now i don't have the problem. sure there is some jerk when i put it in gear but very little. as far as clunking goes no sound whats so ever.
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