You got it. Couldn't hurt to treat the relays and receptacle to what is described in the following write-up. What teh heck, why not do it all?



I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals, and adding dielectric grease before plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.
ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then dielectric grease should be added before plugging them back in. I do this on every Renix era Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.
Revised 07/15/2012

 

I cleaned the four square diodes and no help CHange out the fuel pump a 2nd time and no luck the jeep will start and idle for 5 minutes and then die out and usually need starting fjuid to restart tomorrow I will clean the electric connections that I havent already cleaned. still very open to any input

 

How about monitoring the voltage at the rear of the ballast resistor while it's running and see what voltage is there when it dies?

I'd be tempted to check the ground wire for resistance at the fuel pump connector.

 

Hello again. Voltage was about 14 on one side and 11 on the other. The voltage did not change when it died. I have discovered that when the jeep is cool it starts and runs for 5-10 min until it warms up. Once it is warm it quits. I've checked and no fuel lines are by the exhaust. Is there an o2 sensor or some sensor that will shut down the gas when the vehicle is hot?

 

No sensor that shuts down the pump. The ballast resistor is doing a fine job. You might check for voltage at the fuel pump connector in the rear the same way, until it dies. If power remains after it dies, the fuel pump itself is probably toast. Wouldn't hurt to check the integrity of the ground at the same connector in the back first and report back.

 

I have put 3 different fuel pumps, so I believe I can eliminate the pump. When the engine dies there is no electricity at the ballast resitor, even though the key is still on. I feel it must be heat related. It started fine this morning and ran for about 5-10 min. Then it died and required starting fluid to start again. If I run it around the block, within about 1/4 mile it dies and gets harder to start. It has been sitting all day and I just went out and it fire up right away. It doesn't seem logical to be a ground issue because it will run fine until hot. Any ideas? PS I have cleaned every electrical connection I can find with spray contact cleaner and brushed those that I can get to

 

You said the voltage at the resistor didn't change when it died, originally in Post #19. I'm confused now.

BTW, bad grounds create heat in a circuit.....

 

sorry for the confusion. I meant that the voltage stayed consistant right up to when the engine quit. There was no decrease in voltage before it quit. When it quit there was o volts.

 

Perhaps bad fuel pump relay?