Cherokee Heater Valve Replacement Tips?
Hi, everyone, so I need to replace my heater valve due to a water leak...looks simple enough, just unclamp the hoses, replace the valve, and clamp everything back. But since I'm very much an amateur mechanic, I wanted to ask if there were any tips or tricks I may need to know to help me get this job done correctly? This is the first heater valve that I've ever replaced.
Obviously, the engine will be cold, and I expect to lose water when I undo the hoses. Question...how much water can I expect to lose, and how much coolant should I have on hand "just in case"? I don't have another car that I can run to the store in, so I need to be prepared ahead of time.
I'm also concerned that air may get into the water hoses when I swap out the valve...is this a concern? Do I need to "burp" the system after? If so, how do I do that?
My jeep is a '93 Cherokee Sport 4.0 (in-line 6 cyl), and it is 4WD.
Thanks ahead of time for any and all help...you guys have been wonderful to me in the past in helping with repair work, and I've certainly learned alot!
Obviously, the engine will be cold, and I expect to lose water when I undo the hoses. Question...how much water can I expect to lose, and how much coolant should I have on hand "just in case"? I don't have another car that I can run to the store in, so I need to be prepared ahead of time.
I'm also concerned that air may get into the water hoses when I swap out the valve...is this a concern? Do I need to "burp" the system after? If so, how do I do that?
My jeep is a '93 Cherokee Sport 4.0 (in-line 6 cyl), and it is 4WD.
Thanks ahead of time for any and all help...you guys have been wonderful to me in the past in helping with repair work, and I've certainly learned alot!
"I wanted to ask if there were any tips or tricks I may need to know to help me get this job done correctly? This is the first heater valve that I've ever replaced."
Throw the heater valve away buy two hose barbs (1- 5/8" OD & 1- 11/16" OD) and four hose clamps. Make this the first and last heater control valve you'll ever have to replace.
Throw the heater valve away buy two hose barbs (1- 5/8" OD & 1- 11/16" OD) and four hose clamps. Make this the first and last heater control valve you'll ever have to replace.
Okay, sounds like good advice, thank you, I appreciate it...but still, since I've never done this before, the questions I asked in my initial post still stand. How much water can I expect to lose and will I need to "burp" the system afterwards?
Now, if I go this route, there are four connections/hoses...which two hoses go to which connector barb? I have two hoses to the left (top & bottom), and two hoses on the right (top and bottom). The easy guess is top hoses to top hoses, bottom to bottom. But the way the valve is set up, the lower right hose connects in a straight line to the upper left hose. So since I'm a novice mechanic and can't afford to mess this up, I need some step-by-step help here...not trying to be a pain, just being honest.
There is also a cylinder on the valve that has a smaller connection that runs to it...not sure if it's a vaccuum line that operates the valve itself, but that's what it appears to be? If I go with two hose barbs, what do I do with this connection?
Sorry to ask all these questions...I just want to make sure I do things right and don't mess up my Jeep.
Now, if I go this route, there are four connections/hoses...which two hoses go to which connector barb? I have two hoses to the left (top & bottom), and two hoses on the right (top and bottom). The easy guess is top hoses to top hoses, bottom to bottom. But the way the valve is set up, the lower right hose connects in a straight line to the upper left hose. So since I'm a novice mechanic and can't afford to mess this up, I need some step-by-step help here...not trying to be a pain, just being honest.
There is also a cylinder on the valve that has a smaller connection that runs to it...not sure if it's a vaccuum line that operates the valve itself, but that's what it appears to be? If I go with two hose barbs, what do I do with this connection?
Sorry to ask all these questions...I just want to make sure I do things right and don't mess up my Jeep.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
If u want to go high dollar (maybe $10
), one can just replace both the 5/8" and 3/4" heater hoses. Get the tape measure out and measure how much u need, plus a little extra. All auto parts stores sell heater hose in bulk by the foot. Remember......measure twice, cut once. LOL
), one can just replace both the 5/8" and 3/4" heater hoses. Get the tape measure out and measure how much u need, plus a little extra. All auto parts stores sell heater hose in bulk by the foot. Remember......measure twice, cut once. LOL
Last edited by djb383; May 24, 2013 at 02:18 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 691
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You will lose very little coolant and the '93 is self-burping. Just watch it for a couple of heat/cool cycles and add a bit of coolant if necessary.
That is a vacuum line and you just plug it with whatever will fit.
That is a vacuum line and you just plug it with whatever will fit.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
That's the vacuum motor that operates the valve. You'll have to plug the small vacuum line to avoid a vacuum leak.
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