Cherokee boggs and backfires and wont go above 15 mph!!!
Runs fine cold, runs awful when warm. I'm inclined to agree with DFlintstone, that you have a bad sensor somewhere that's being ignored until the ECM goes into closed loop operation.
I'd put a fuel pressure gauge on it before digging much more into the fuel system, you might be chasing a symptom rather than the cause.
Last edited by Radi; Apr 21, 2012 at 11:04 PM.
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From: Plaza, ND ..... Unfortunately
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
ill hook a computer up to it tomorow and test EVERYTHING. i used my computer to test that i had a bad o2 and it worked great so i dont think i should have a problem finding the cause of all this crap
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
When you find a DRB II scanner, send up a flare, OK? We all want to see one. Except Cruiser if course, has one in his vault!
Guess there is not much you can do until you get your tank/fuel sorted out.
I've seen posts...I guess either of the temp sensors can cause real *****.
One guy posted his would run like crap unless he unplugged his IAT, (that's incoming air temp), there on the intake. (the other is down on the side of the block) Also, not likely your issue but that little tube from the inside if the TB that runs up to the MAP there on the firewall is tender, brittle, and crucial. If it is off, cracked, or plugged, the MAP will tell the ECU you have it floored and dump fuel.
Going past 70/80% throttle put's in in open loop btw...something you might try when it's warmed up. Should have thought of that...if it takes off like a raped ape, your pump is probably OK.
Guess there is not much you can do until you get your tank/fuel sorted out.
I've seen posts...I guess either of the temp sensors can cause real *****.
One guy posted his would run like crap unless he unplugged his IAT, (that's incoming air temp), there on the intake. (the other is down on the side of the block) Also, not likely your issue but that little tube from the inside if the TB that runs up to the MAP there on the firewall is tender, brittle, and crucial. If it is off, cracked, or plugged, the MAP will tell the ECU you have it floored and dump fuel.
Going past 70/80% throttle put's in in open loop btw...something you might try when it's warmed up. Should have thought of that...if it takes off like a raped ape, your pump is probably OK.
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From: Plaza, ND ..... Unfortunately
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
ive floored it before at it didnt help or hurt. the exhaust tone just got deeper but still shuddered and sputtered and bogged so im not sure whats wrong.
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
So you really floorboarded it and it didn't take off. OK then. I guess get your tank/fuel squared away...Cruiser gets up VERY early, most days...
Mine, "sputtered and bogged", when my wires to the lower sensors were grounding on the heat shield, but it would always take off if I really gassed it. (gratefully!). Also once the pin that drives the impeller in my pump sheared. A head scratcher since I had no fuel pressure, but could hear the pump running.
Mine, "sputtered and bogged", when my wires to the lower sensors were grounding on the heat shield, but it would always take off if I really gassed it. (gratefully!). Also once the pin that drives the impeller in my pump sheared. A head scratcher since I had no fuel pressure, but could hear the pump running.
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From: Plaza, ND ..... Unfortunately
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
im pissed at my albino rhino so im done touching it for the day. i just got done dropping the tank and ill pull the pump tomorrow and see if there anything clogging the pickup. i dont have a heat shield anymore because i replaced my exhaust/intake gasket and forgot to put it in ooppps
nut ill check if i have any burnt/cut wires tomorow. i love my heep but i dont like it right now
nut ill check if i have any burnt/cut wires tomorow. i love my heep but i dont like it right now
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Guess I have heard talk of the CPS failing warm/hot. Usually stalling though. Cutting out. doubt it. Just takes a minute though.
Cruiser is really the guy...no heat shield for the injectors, and something like a fuel problem while it's hot? I don't know if he get's up at 3-4 AM on Sundays or not.
Plugs'r .35. cap rotor and wires are OK You tried more than one coil wire..you have a nice crisp blue spark....
Gotta see that fuel pressure....(my cps crapped not long after this V, below)
AC voltage CPS test; Small clips on the meter leads really helps.
Unplug the connector at the back of the manifold with wires going down to the bell-housing/cps.
Probe the two wires to the cps with the meter set on AC volts. (a 200 scale on mine).
Crank the engine and note the voltage. (jump it if your battery is low)
Mine somehow works with only .3 my wiring/grounds must be pretty spiffy. .5 seems to be a good mark. One article talked of .5 to .8.
If it's low you can modify the cps. With the next largest bit that won't fit in the hole, enlarge the holes in the bracket just a tad. Now when mounting it's crucial to maintain firm downward pressure on it while tightening the bolts. An assistant could help with that from above.
Hey, I just found out your Springfield is one in the same from the Simpsons!
Cruiser is really the guy...no heat shield for the injectors, and something like a fuel problem while it's hot? I don't know if he get's up at 3-4 AM on Sundays or not.
Plugs'r .35. cap rotor and wires are OK You tried more than one coil wire..you have a nice crisp blue spark....
Gotta see that fuel pressure....(my cps crapped not long after this V, below)
AC voltage CPS test; Small clips on the meter leads really helps.
Unplug the connector at the back of the manifold with wires going down to the bell-housing/cps.
Probe the two wires to the cps with the meter set on AC volts. (a 200 scale on mine).
Crank the engine and note the voltage. (jump it if your battery is low)
Mine somehow works with only .3 my wiring/grounds must be pretty spiffy. .5 seems to be a good mark. One article talked of .5 to .8.
If it's low you can modify the cps. With the next largest bit that won't fit in the hole, enlarge the holes in the bracket just a tad. Now when mounting it's crucial to maintain firm downward pressure on it while tightening the bolts. An assistant could help with that from above.
Hey, I just found out your Springfield is one in the same from the Simpsons!
Last edited by DFlintstone; Apr 22, 2012 at 11:10 AM. Reason: hole's > holes
Just for s and g. My old 89 did the same thing as yours. My cts wire under the plastic sleeve was naked and shorting out. Until I found it, the only way I could get my jeep to run, was by leaving my cts unplugged. Worth a shot.
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
my mistake, my bro does have it but some one loves me, i took at closer look, removed some electrical tape and sheathing and found out that someone got rid of the c101 in my jeep and cut all the wires and butt connected them together. im going to cut, solder, and heat shink them all tomorrow.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Plaza, ND ..... Unfortunately
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
when i unplug my cps it just kills the motor. wait...cps is the crank positioning sensor right? because thats what ive unpluged numerous times. and cts is coolant temp sensor? im not realy new to jeep, ive been dealing with them for about 3 or 4 years now but i always call the sensors by their full name not abbreviations, it gets to be confusing ahaha. cruiser said somthing about "do this before i mess with anything else" did he mean rewiring the c101?
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From: Plaza, ND ..... Unfortunately
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
the spark on it is set perfectly. plugs are gapped, wires going to all correct places and a healthy spark. i have excelent compression on all cylinders so it absolutly has to be a fuel delivery problem, whether its a glogged line, electrcal problem from the c101, a bad pump, or a blocked pickup in the tank. i am determined to get to the bottom of this today!
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Agreed on the "alphabet soup". Even right, it's just wrong! The coolant temp sensor is down by the knock sensor on the left side of the block. I'm messen with my 02 down there. I jacked up the FRAME of the jeep and went in through the front with the axle hanging with the wheel off.
I don't trust those crimp connectors much at all. Even if someone happened to do every one right, (unlikely), they still can be an issue. Once you start soldering , with the shrink tube off to the side, then sliding it over and shrinking it, along with the larger diameter you may have put on there as well, it's hard to go go back. Your hooked for life!
Also for connectors, I toss the plastic, slide the tube on, crimp it just well enough to hold it in place, solder that, then slide the (hopefully correct color), tube up to the connector. (I hold the PLASTIC with pliers, then heat the metal to get the crap plastic to slide off)
So yea. I'm sure he wanted you to make sure your wires were hooked up. Also that tube in the tank....of course you wouldn't want anything sucking air...
I don't trust those crimp connectors much at all. Even if someone happened to do every one right, (unlikely), they still can be an issue. Once you start soldering , with the shrink tube off to the side, then sliding it over and shrinking it, along with the larger diameter you may have put on there as well, it's hard to go go back. Your hooked for life!
Also for connectors, I toss the plastic, slide the tube on, crimp it just well enough to hold it in place, solder that, then slide the (hopefully correct color), tube up to the connector. (I hold the PLASTIC with pliers, then heat the metal to get the crap plastic to slide off)
So yea. I'm sure he wanted you to make sure your wires were hooked up. Also that tube in the tank....of course you wouldn't want anything sucking air...
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 20
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From: sw michigan
Year: 1989
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0l I6
had the same problem with my jeep and it was a rubber hose just dumping the fuel back into the tank from the fuel pump i just dropped the tank and put it back on and tightened the clamp and wala it ran like a champ til the motor blew now im having a no spark issue



Should read "CPT posted that his wouldn't run unless he unplugged his CTS"