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Cherokee 4WD issues...

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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 04:51 AM
  #1  
95cherokee96's Avatar
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From: British Columbia, Canada
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline-6
Default Cherokee 4WD issues...

Hey guys we just had a massive snow dump where we live for the past 2 days and driving around town without 4wd is impossible. The other day I was pulling into a parking lot and I have had an issue recently where the 4wd "PART TIME" light would turn off when putting it back into 2wd but wouldn't shift back into 4wd until I hear a clunk outside about 30-45 seconds after putting it back into 2wd. My u-joint on the front passenger side needs replacing I know that already as when I turn in 4wd all you hear is a very unpleasant noise but I'm wondering if thats why it isn't disengaging 4wheel. So turning into the parking lot I tried to put it into 4wd but it wouldn't shift all the way only about half way from 2wd to 4 HI but then all of a sudden it let me pull back and it slid right through neutral and into 4 LO with me being in drive and not neutral on the transmission. I'm fairly certain you're not supposed to be able to go past 4 HI when you're not in neutral. Also I should note that while in the "state" of being in "4WD going to 2WD" before hearing the clunk somewhere around 1500-2000rpm I will start hearing a howling noise or whistling that gets louder when it revs higher I'm starting to get a bit worried of driving around now. It's my first vehicle so obviously I'm not on expert on them or what is causing the problems, so I'm wondering is the transfer case messed up, differential, transmisson? Please help!

It's a 1995 4.0L with the Command-Track system
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 06:40 AM
  #2  
salad's Avatar
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Address known U joint problems, look for more, and check fluid level in the transfer case. So far nothing "bad".
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 07:17 AM
  #3  
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If you need 4wd and you're having trouble engaging, stop, put the transmission in neutral, switch into four and then back into drive. It might engage easier. Usually works on my 2000 sport with the 231.

-BTD94
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 07:22 AM
  #4  
Fred/N0AZZ's Avatar
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by billthedrummer94
If you need 4wd and you're having trouble engaging, stop, put the transmission in neutral, switch into four and then back into drive. It might engage easier. Usually works on my 2000 sport with the 231.

-BTD94
That is not the correct way to do so, check the owners manual for the proper way.
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 07:24 AM
  #5  
Kalali's Avatar
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Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by billthedrummer94
If you need 4wd and you're having trouble engaging, stop, put the transmission in neutral, switch into four and then back into drive. It might engage easier. Usually works on my 2000 sport with the 231.

-BTD94

That should not be needed. NP231 is shift on the fly. If yours works only by going through neutral, then you should check the linkages and fluids.
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 08:32 AM
  #6  
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From: Sheridan, IL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by 95cherokee96
Hey guys we just had a massive snow dump where we live for the past 2 days and driving around town without 4wd is impossible. The other day I was pulling into a parking lot and I have had an issue recently where the 4wd "PART TIME" light would turn off when putting it back into 2wd but wouldn't shift back into 4wd until I hear a clunk outside about 30-45 seconds after putting it back into 2wd. My u-joint on the front passenger side needs replacing I know that already as when I turn in 4wd all you hear is a very unpleasant noise but I'm wondering if thats why it isn't disengaging 4wheel. So turning into the parking lot I tried to put it into 4wd but it wouldn't shift all the way only about half way from 2wd to 4 HI but then all of a sudden it let me pull back and it slid right through neutral and into 4 LO with me being in drive and not neutral on the transmission. I'm fairly certain you're not supposed to be able to go past 4 HI when you're not in neutral. Also I should note that while in the "state" of being in "4WD going to 2WD" before hearing the clunk somewhere around 1500-2000rpm I will start hearing a howling noise or whistling that gets louder when it revs higher I'm starting to get a bit worried of driving around now. It's my first vehicle so obviously I'm not on expert on them or what is causing the problems, so I'm wondering is the transfer case messed up, differential, transmisson? Please help!

It's a 1995 4.0L with the Command-Track system
Try letting off the gas completely before switching between 4wd and 2wd. My 98 used to make a similar clunk switching out of 4wd. As for the howling you could check your front hubs. Mine used to howl something awful only in 4wd until I replaced both.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 01:12 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
That is not the correct way to do so, check the owners manual for the proper way.
I know how to engage properly but if you're already stuck and the rear is just spinning or it doesn't engage right on the fly it's better to do it this way than grind the **** out of the internals...
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 03:28 AM
  #8  
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From: tucson
Year: 1992
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What I do on mine is I shift back into 2wd, drive a few feet in reverse then put it back in drive. It usually works
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 11:26 PM
  #9  
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Year: 1990
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Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.

Revised 11/20/2014
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 02:29 PM
  #10  
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Smile

Had problem with AW4 automatic transmission after coolant entered fluid via radiator wall failure. Drained fluid and replaced a couple of times. It would start, move for a few minutes then appear to to be slipping and stop moving. Many times, I could turn off the engine for a short time, restart, and get the Sport to go again. Had a idea about changing out the filter, and did. What a hassle doing it while it hung by the dip tube. But when I had the filter changed and pan back on, and fluid replaced, it drove like nothing was ever wrong. Very happy a $1000 plus rebuild was not necessary!
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 03:40 PM
  #11  
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So turning into the parking lot I tried to put it into 4wd but it wouldn't shift all the way only about half way from 2wd to 4 HI but then all of a sudden it let me pull back and it slid right through neutral and into 4 LO with me being in drive and not neutral on the transmission.
Originally Posted by Rcrivolio
Try letting off the gas completely before switching between 4wd and 2wd. My 98 used to make a similar clunk switching out of 4wd.

All the 4x4's that I ever owned, you needed to be going straight and foot off the gas to shift into 4wd while moving. Otherwise the front and back drivelines will not be going the same speed either from the front/rear turning differential or the rear wheels spinning slightly. Just my $0.02
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 10:28 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 2000JCtoad
Had problem with AW4 automatic transmission after coolant entered fluid via radiator wall failure. Drained fluid and replaced a couple of times. It would start, move for a few minutes then appear to to be slipping and stop moving. Many times, I could turn off the engine for a short time, restart, and get the Sport to go again. Had a idea about changing out the filter, and did. What a hassle doing it while it hung by the dip tube. But when I had the filter changed and pan back on, and fluid replaced, it drove like nothing was ever wrong. Very happy a $1000 plus rebuild was not necessary!
What did the screen look like?

You sure just changing another 4 quarts of fluid without the screen woulda done the same?
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