bigvig

So I changed out my heater core and ac evaporator over the past couple days, and today I flushed and filled the coolant. Burped her the right way, there is NO AIR in there. So I took her up the street and back no problems, but after about 5 miles my check engine light came on. Any ideas? When I pulled the heater box I did have to unplug a number of things and had the battery disconnected for a couple days, so Im not sure if this is a re-set thing or what. Anyone have a guess?

edited: I edited some of the useless info out of this post and posted new stuff at the bottom. Im throwing codes 1494 and 1694. The 1494 Im wondering if its because I unplugged some of the lines to get to the heater box nut on the front passenger side, but the 1694 is a transmission issue. Can someone PLEASE help me out?

stryker1228

A bad temp sensor will set off the light. However, if the temp sensor goes bad it will read zero. Those engines hold heat for a while. But I would take it up to you local auto parts store and get them to pull the code. That will tell you a lot.

tjwalker

The strategy when you have a check engine light is ALWAYS the same. Pull the codes.

You'll need a code reader, a scan tool, or some parts stores like Autozone will pull the codes for you for free.

Use the technology provided to you by your Jeep. These codes are absolutely invaluable to figuring out what is going on. Anything else is guesswork.

bigvig

Oh, I know. I dont have a code reader at my disposal until Monday, I just thought Id post it and see if there were any thoughts on it. Like I said, it was VERY odd that the temp gauge was still up, because she's never done that after being off that long. But yeah, Ill have the code checked. Thanks.

PS: Is there is a good scan tool I could buy and use myself that will work well and not break the bank?

stryker1228

How much breaks the bank?

crystalion

I bought one from Harbor freight for about $40 and then 3 months later saw the same one on sale at AZ for $35. It works great and I've pulled codes for so many cars in my family and friends.

Any of us who want to fix our own cars and especially Jeeps since they seem to have multiple personality disorders. It will save you time and money and will be well worth the $40 in the first 6 months. I've read and reset (cleared the codes) to make sure its not some computer fluke which does happen. When thats over (60 seconds) I'm on the puter hunting down the code(s) what they mean and the possible cures.

bigvig

Well, since I have a friend with one pretty much anything is excess, but Id like to have my own for times like this. Soooo, I dont know. Is $100 going to buy a POS? Will $200 buy the best I need? I really have no idea what ones are good and what ones arent. I just found an Actron pocket $30-$50, an Equus for $80ish and a DiabloSport for $300. I just dont know whats good and whats not. I guess all I need is something that will give me the code and be able to clear it, right? Again, I dont know. I have no experience with them except for my buddies, but he's a mechanic and its the one he uses for work so it was top of the line.

crystalion

I have the cheap Actron-does what I need it to do. Read and Clear the codes. The rest is up for u to do.

tjwalker

Actron and Equus are low cost tools / readers that are of decent quality. I own one of each.

At the very LEAST, be sure you get one that allows you to clear the codes. The real cheap ones don't even let you do that. Having that ability is very important when you "think" you have resolved an issue.

bigvig

Well, after looking at a bunch of different ones, prices, reviews, etc., I purchased a Equus 3030 on Amazon for $45 bucks. TONS of good reviews on it so it seems like it should be good, and it regularly retailed for $130 so thats not bad. Anyway.....

I was pretty sick last night and this morning, so the wife took Goldie down to our friends garage. Told him what was going on, etc., so he plugged her in. When the codes (yes, plural, there were two of them) our friend goes, "Huh, pop the hood." He looked around and said it was probably because of the stuff I did to her and reset her and said keep an eye on it, if it comes on again to bring her back.

He said he cleared them because he thought they were just messed up from me pulling stuff apart, but it would be nice to have a second or third opinion from other Cherokee guys. Thanks a bunch!!!!!

bigvig

Update: Wife just got back from driving about 5 miles and the light came back on. Codes its showing are 1494 and 1694.

1494 is Leak Detection Pump Sw or Mechanical Fault Incorrect input state detected for the Leak Detection

1694 is Fault In Companion Module No CCD/J1850 messages received from the powertrain control module-Aisin transmission

So, any ideas?