Cheap ways to stop hatch from rattling?
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix
Cheap ways to stop hatch from rattling?
My back hatch is rattling like nuts and it's getting annoying. Anyone have ideas on how to shut it up without paying way too much for sound deadener?
#3
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0L Renix
#4
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this is how i took care of mine
lol
but on a serious note.
did you max out those bump stop things? did you push your striker in more?
lol
but on a serious note.
did you max out those bump stop things? did you push your striker in more?
#5
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You can also use self adhesive roofing material from home depot or Lowes. It looks just like sound dynomat but way cheaper and almost works just as good. Spray foam will work as well
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Year: 1998
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Mine was rattling because the latch bolts where it clicks when it shuts had loose bolts. Tightened them up on the jeep and the hatch and no more rattling!
#7
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#8
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#9
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#10
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If the seal is worn out just get a new seal they don't cost much. Don't "rig" it with what ever you find in the closest big box store. It your going to do that just layer on the duck tape. If you want to tighten the latch on the body side there is the second part of the latch and under neath it or behind the bumper there are 2 nuts that are used to adjust it. Loosen move forward slightly and tighten them back down.
#11
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If the seal is worn out just get a new seal they don't cost much. Don't "rig" it with what ever you find in the closest big box store. It your going to do that just layer on the duck tape. If you want to tighten the latch on the body side there is the second part of the latch and under neath it or behind the bumper there are 2 nuts that are used to adjust it. Loosen move forward slightly and tighten them back down.
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I sawed off the head, now I'm watching for the right bushing to accommodate the worn latch. The new gasket is nice but didn't stop the dam rattling. Wrapping the finger of a worn-out golf glove around the pin makes it stop. (I did try a new pin, but saved it aside when it didn't help).
#13
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The strike pin (as you can see from Flintstones picture) gets worn over time with a big flat spot where the latch rests when the hatch is closed. The things I did to fix mine, which didn't fix it but made it much better, are...
1. Removed and rotated the latch pin 180º so the latch now rested on the fresh side.
2. Moved the pin as far back as I could get it. That means I have to close the door a little harder to get it to latch but I don't have to slam it or anything. Mine has big Torx bolts holding it in place, whatever yours has, make sure you get them really tight.
3. Installed a HUGE subwoofer.
Like I said, it's much better but it still rattles sometimes. Because of the unibody, the hatch is structural and tends to flex a little. My next step will be to replace the weather stripping which I suspect has been compressed enough times over the past 23 years that it has very little resiliency and just doesn't hold the door in place very well. Good luck, if you find something that works, let us know.
1. Removed and rotated the latch pin 180º so the latch now rested on the fresh side.
2. Moved the pin as far back as I could get it. That means I have to close the door a little harder to get it to latch but I don't have to slam it or anything. Mine has big Torx bolts holding it in place, whatever yours has, make sure you get them really tight.
3. Installed a HUGE subwoofer.
Like I said, it's much better but it still rattles sometimes. Because of the unibody, the hatch is structural and tends to flex a little. My next step will be to replace the weather stripping which I suspect has been compressed enough times over the past 23 years that it has very little resiliency and just doesn't hold the door in place very well. Good luck, if you find something that works, let us know.
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