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Can't get new lug studs to pull all of tge way through?
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I think the OP is getting a lot of confusing information. Other studs might "work" but why not order the right part.
He knows for himself now that the front studs won't work on the rear. Those front studs would appear to be equivalent to Dorman 610 109 (.625 In. Knurl; 1-5/8 In. Length) which didn't go in (probably knurl is too long or not correct taper). So I would suggest using the correct part number for the rear which looks like Dorman 610 364 (0.618 In. Knurl; 1-15/32 In. Length)
A 1999 Grand ZJ stud for the rear shows Dorman 610 234 (.621 In. Knurl; 1-5/8 In. Length ). This would be a longer stud
Where are the original studs (broken?). I usually bring those to the parts place to make it easier.
I ended up going with the dorman 610-379. Had to have them pressed in by a machine shop this morning for $25. I tried for two hours last night to get them through and no luck.
Now I can get on with it and finish this tomorrow.
I think the OP is getting a lot of confusing information. Other studs might "work" but why not order the right part. He knows for himself now that the front studs won't work on the rear. Those front studs would appear to be equivalent to Dorman 610 109 (.625 In. Knurl; 1-5/8 In. Length) which didn't go in (probably knurl is too long or not correct taper). So I would suggest using the correct part number for the rear which looks like Dorman 610 364 (0.618 In. Knurl; 1-15/32 In. Length) A 1999 Grand ZJ stud for the rear shows Dorman 610 234 (.621 In. Knurl; 1-5/8 In. Length ). This would be a longer stud Where are the original studs (broken?). I usually bring those to the parts place to make it easier.
I know for me I did a disc brake conversion and the disc had a thicker plate then the drum also I swapped from steel to alloy rims which are thicker.
Ok guys I finally ended up finishing this "little" project.
Thank you for help and advice!
Once I got everything together and started bleeding the brakes I kept hearing a hissing, the brakes would build pressure then if I held the pedal down it would lose pressure and the brake light would come on. So I stepped back to look at the bleed bottle and seen a huge puddle under the driver side rear door, the main line from front to rear exploded so I ended up having to replace that as well.
Before that I went to bleed them with the tire off and noticed my hard line over the axle was leaking. When I took it off the fitting on the outside was seized up and would not turn so I thought I could get away with just turning the whole line to tighten it then route it back to the junction over the axle, it didn't work. So I went to Autozone and got a generic 30" line, used a paint can and hammer handle to put a loop in it and rout it over the axle to the caliper, nope it was not an inverted fitting and would not match threads to tighten so I took it back and got the right one. Routed it over the axle, tightened everything up and the soft line into the caliper leaked so I had to return that as well.
THEN, once I finally got everything together I went to tighten the lugs and apparently when I was trying to pull them through before I had them pressed through I must have screwed up some thread and it didn't want to tighten down all the way so when I tried to remove it the lug stud snapped, lol. So I ended up getting another lug stud, pounding the broken one out and thankfully was able to fish it behind the e brake shoes and pull it through with out removing the axle.
Yes all of this did really happen!
I still have to find some e brake cables that are the correct length and the job will be done. I also had to replace the e brake tensioner because it was so rusted it fell apart when I tried to take it off.
I had full intentions to completely remove the ABS system but once I seen how much fun it was going to be to fish the passenger side brake hard line across the firewall behind the engine I decided to save that for another day.
So I ended up putting the full disc brake kit on, new bearings and seals, new hard lines over the axle, new hard line from front to rear, new soft line over rear axle to junction on top of axle, new soft lines to caliper(used new lines from 98 Grand and they worked perfect), new wheel lug studs and all new e brake equipment.
When I put this kit together I got backing plates and caliper brackets from an 03 Liberty, blasted and painted them and ordered a caliper, rotor and pad kit from Rock auto so just about everything is new.
A few pics...
The broken Lug Stud.
The main brake line that failed. If you do this swap check that line, could have been ugly if it had failed later while I was driving. It was $39 at the dealer.
The finished product.
Sorry for the long post. Hopefully someone can get some info they might need from this post... Good Luck.
07-09-2016, 09:12 AM
