i dont have a multi meter, or an ohmmeter i was wondering if this might work....

 

no electricians out there?

 

After you get past the batteries it's all greek to me

 

I doubt it. That meter is for point/condenser style ignitions that have not been used in a long time.

Might be handy if you have an old classic car to diagnose but pretty much useless for diagnosing Modern ignition systems.

 

Any meter that is capable of taking different types of measurements is technically a multimeter including the one shown in your pictures.

Although it's named "Electronic Ignition Analyzer", it isn't able to test electronic ignitions and never was intended to because it pre-dates them. The word 'electronic' is only valid in that it's an 'electronic instrument', however old. Obviously, the only ignition it's capable of analyzing is the old points based distributors. It may be worth holding on to for that reason alone in the event you ever come across one and need to know dwell. That would be up to you (or whoever). The tach functions might come in handy, too.

More to the point. If the meter is still 'working', you should be able to set the **** shown in your first picture to the 'Off/volts' position and measure your battery voltage or any other in your vehicles wiring. That would be the acid-test. The second picture shows the meters needle to be adjusted at zero.

Your 4th pic shows the meters function **** already set to the 800 ohm scale. The ohm function is simple, actually. To take an resistance measurement you have to have a power source to operate the meter. Either you hook power leads to the battery (probably), or it has an internal battery, or you have a power cord to plug into the wall. Either way, get it powered up then short the test leads together (that are usable for the ohm function, anyway) and the meters needle should deflect to the right. When it does, you adjust the meters needle to Zero on the Ohm scale. I'm old school and that's usually done by adjusting the screw just below the face of the meter itself. It's called the 'zero adjust screw' of all things, lol. The 5th picture also shows a slotted adjustment **** called 'set'. One or the other should work.

If the meter itself works... that 'bad-boy' will work for you.

 

Your CPS should test from 125-275 ohms, from all I've read. It might break down when it gets hot... but that's what my book says.

 

If it has a positive and a negative cable, i see an Ohmeter... switch to 800ohm and measure the damn thing.

 

the set **** is for cilynder number.. 4-6-8.. anyway not needed..

 

I am pretty sure that if if still works you can test electrical components (volts) and check engine RPM from under the hood. Thats about all!

 

The last pic in the lead post, pic #5 which is posted sideways, shows two 'set' *****. One is a big **** on 'top' labeled "Engine Type" and the other is a small slotted **** just below labeled "Set (and a symbol)". The symbol indicates it's to adjust right-side meter deflection.

 

If the meter works it will measure resistance.

 

yes, it will work

 

Yeah that's the zero adjust.

 

You can get a "Cheap" DVM at Harbor Freight for $2.99-4.99 its not 100% accurate but gets the job done...Tj

 

Use the 800 ohm setting and read off the corresponding scale.

-E