No, I believe that's the offset. Back spacing is the measurement you get when you lay the rim back side down on a level surface and stick a measurer in the center hole and measure to the mating surface.

31x10.50s on 3.5"bs steelies. I love them!

 

Offset is measured from centerline to mounting surface. Backspace is from mounting surface to inside edge of the rim. The smaller the backspace you have the further the rim will stick out. In other words a wheel with 3.5" bs will stick out 1" further than a wheel with 4.5" bs as long both wheel are the same width.

 

There 35/12.50/15lt. Mud rover dunlop radials. I got em really cheap for all four.

 

I knew it was something like that.

 

Thanks for this sticky... made my life easier

 

Whered you get that mirror from on the driver side? I want to put wrangler mirrors on it but dont have the money for em right now

 

It's not the length so much as the angle. The slip yoke comes out further than a non slip yoke.

 

he means having a double u joint slip yoke, so it helps with the vibes and extends his driveshaft a bit. I like the idea but I'm not very familiar with driveshafts so I'm not sure how easy it would be to remove the u joint and add the doublecardan joint to the original driveshaft.

 

My dad picked it up from wally world. Don't bother. When I tried adjusting it it felt like it was gonna break off. Just go to the JY and get the right thing first would be my advice.

 

Yeah, that is what Im thinking, though I wasnt all that concerned with driveline vibration (well, at least as far as on road is concerned, its strictly a trailered wheelimg rig. Having additional angle was sort of what I was thinking, and I guess this is similar to the vibration thing.

I was bored and daydreaming on what I could do with the pile of extra parts that might save me some money while I shop around for a slip yoke eliminator.

I thought about just mounting a front driveshaft to the slip yoke to get the double ujoint, but realized it would have two slip sections, which is a no no. I have heard of pinning the slip yoke to the tailshaft, but if Im going to that much work Id rather put the real parts in. Then I thought, if the ujoint caps are the same size I could just drop a knuckle in place of the upper ujoint, get some extra angle, and a little extra length to boot. Ill check it out later in the week, and if it works out Ill do a write up on it.

 

Double joint may work, just have to make sure your not gonna create more problems. Have you looked at the IRO SYE kit? its a H&T but for the money its a pretty good deal.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=XDT

 

Just want to point out, cause of how you said that, there's nothing wrong with a HnT kit. It isn't a full replacement, but I've never heard of any problems if it's done right.

 

Ive done a few hack n tap, setups too. No problems for me. Getting the hole drilled is the hardest part, if you dont have a good way to do it. I just took mine to work and did it.

 

would a 90 model gas tank skid fit a 99 sport?

 

I'm sure a hack and tap would be fine, and I'd probably try to rig one together out of the old slip yoke (don't see why you couldn't shorten it too and bolt it on), but I'm not feeling like I'd actually get it done in a timely fasion and would probably screw something up in the process.

Besides, this looks cheaper and drop in:
http://thejeephut.com/np231-transfer...8350bf0268e88e

Anything wrong with it, or is there something I'm missing that it's more expensive in the long run or something? It sounds like it just uses a front drive shaft.