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broken skid plate bolt

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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 08:54 PM
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jstantherprsn's Avatar
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Default broken skid plate bolt

Hey Everyone,

I was taking off the skid plate to do some work and one of the bolts that connect the skid plate to the unibody channel broke. I got like 3 turns before it broke off. I got some replacement bolts and a couple screw extractors and the entire bolt removal kit from oem. Anyone know if the ez out will work?

I've never had to remove a broken bolt before. I saw a video on youtube on how to do it. It appears you do a punch then drill into it about 3/4 the length of the bolt. Then you use a hand tool or something and screw in your ez out. That's my understanding of the system. I have this feeling that if the screw didnt want to come out then and it broke. Using the ez out probably will result in it breaking.

Do you suggest that I drill as much of the bolt out as I can with the colbolt drill and use the biggest ez out I have? I'm guessing the ez your screws into the unit lefty lucy and grabs and rotates the bolt with it. Unfortunately I don't have a welder, so that tactic won't work.
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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if the bolt is siezed in there then the ez out wont work, id drill it our get a short stub screwdriver and bang it out with a hammer, if you dont mind a bit of screw rolling around in your unibody
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 10:05 AM
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Does anyone know if a 14V variable speed cordless drill will be strong enough? I'm thinking that the 14V should be enough but I'm not sure.
My other option is to go buy a 7A variable speed chord drill.
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 10:12 AM
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cord drill.
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 10:23 AM
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^^^ x2 Go with an electric drill. Lots more power and you can pick one up for cheap at Checker(O'Rielly Auto Parts) A cordless might not have enough tourque. Use a sharp bit.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:33 AM
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Apparently I had a single speed 5A b&d drill. I also picked up a 14 piece metric tap set and 5 left handed drill bits. I wanted the colbalt kind but they only had titanium. I eventually broke 2 bits but I drill out the majority of the bolt with the 1/4" I can see the void into the unibody. I hit it with a punch and pull out a couple more of the bolt threads. However with all the oil I was using the 10 dollar set of bits are toast. My 1/4 is about to break, I can feel it. I avoided attempting to use the EZ out. I didn't have variable speed drill, so there is a chance it would have broken off. The hole is pretty straight but has a slight bend in it. The very back side on the left side is still remaining but the entire right side of the bolt has been drilled thru. I'm hesitant to use say a 9mm- 1.25 tap. Since there is a bend it would ruin the tap, I think?

So I'm trying to find some self impacting hex bolts that would cut into the 1/4" hole. If it removes some stuff, that's great. If it holds well, I'll use that as the replacement bolt. Anyone know where I can find a chart for tap hole to tap size?
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 03:06 AM
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9-1.25?? should be a 8-1.25... anyway if you turn the tap really slowly back and forth with cutting oil you are ok. Normally hole is tap diameter - tap path.
Here is the chart:
http://www.gewinde-normen.de/en/iso-coarse-thread.html
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 07:16 PM
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Okay, thanks for the chart. I also found another here:

http://mdmetric.com/tech/cvtcht.htm


I went thru that OEM 5 piece kit. It said titanium not colbalt on the package. Anyways I drilled thru with the 1/4" and its is on its way out. I have the 19/64 left, which I haven't used. The replacement bolts are M10-1.5

According to the charts, my tap hole should be about 8.5mm before I can use my number 10 tap 1.5 thread. Now an 8.5mm is about .33346" I have one bit left & its a 19/64 = .2969". I'm guessing I should put that bit on and go to town drilling more I was a bit hesitant to use the 19/64 because I didn't want to remove too much metal. However if everything above is correct. I can get away with drilling more out. Once I am able to drill that out, I can jiggle it around a little and pull out my 9M - 1.25 tap. I should be able to cut away more of the original bolt. In order to use the 9 - 1.25, I need a tap hole that's 7.8mm. That's pretty close to 19/64. I could just jiggle the drill bit around a little and it should be good enough tap hole for me to try the tap. The tap cutting away would literally be the remaining remnants of the the bolt. If nothing comes out I'll go get a 9M-1.25.

I have a large drill set but its a cheap deal mainly for wood and stuff. You know one of those cheap ones that come with like 90 drill bits in a red metal box. Its got metric and american units. I would attempt to use it but I'm pretty sure it would snap. Should I just tap around with a punch and see if I can get anything else loose or just stop with the 9M-1.25 bolt.
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