Broken MAP Sensor vacuum line?
#16
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6 cyl
Vaccum line on throttle body
Thanks for any info guys...Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Jay in Spokane
#17
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
OK...the vaccum line came off of the throttle body...my question is..the line actually goes to the bottom hole on the throttle body?..the other hole is just a retaining plug...I need to get a new one ...this is the second time it came loose..won't start when it pops out...sorry I don't have a pic of this...just hoping you know what I'm talking about from the pics already here...
Thanks for any info guys...Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Jay in Spokane
Thanks for any info guys...Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Jay in Spokane
#18
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
My new to me 90 came looken like this. Not sure what the black tube is, maybe vinal, maybe used for air shocks? I suppose I'll shorten it, try heating it to make bends and run it so it slopes down from the map to the TB. (so fluid can't "puddle" in a dip.
#19
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I just remove the IAT, put it into the air cleaner, put a vacuum fitting where the IAT was, and bend a new line outta leftover plastic tubing. The hole on the throttle body gets tapped for a 1/8" pipe plug.
#20
Senior Member
So you think it's ok to have the MAP just on manifold vacuum fitting and not sensing the vacuum under the throttle plate where the stock connection is?
Mine is hooked up with a T to the rear intake fitting with the cruise line.
#21
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I know so!! LOL.
If you've ever looked at the bottom of a throttle body, you can see that the passage goes to manifold vacuum.
#22
1990 Jeep cherokee XJ 4.0l staight 6
Can some one please post a link or something to help me find a place to buy the vacuum line from the throttle body to the map sensor my jeep is missing it completely.
#23
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Year: 1990
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#24
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS
The real kicker here is how critical this line is in supplying the correct vacuum signal to the MAP, the most relied upon sensor for the ECU to read regarding air/fuel ratio. Any cracks, melted spots, or loose rubber connectors can cause major starting and driveability issues.
There’s a simple fix though. All that’s required is a 1/8” NPT tap, a new throttle body gasket ( Napa FPG 60742 ), a vacuum fitting (Napa 05703-B102), two vacuum elbows (Napa CRB2670), and a length of new plastic piping (Napa CRB2672).
Remove the throttle body and take it to the workbench.
Using an oiled tap along with a driver, carefully thread the lower of the 2 holes of the throttle body where the old fitting was plugged in. Don’t go too deep. These are pipe threads.
Flush the hole with carb cleaner and inspect for any left over cuttings.
This is an excellent time to do a complete throttle body and IAC cleaning. See Tip 11.
Take the vacuum fitting (05703-B102 ) and apply a LITTLE bit of thread sealer on the threads only. I prefer Permatex #2 but almost anything is fine.
.
Carefully screw the fitting in until snug.
Install one of the vacuum elbows on the MAP sensor so it points toward the throttle body, and the other vacuum elbow on your new throttle body fitting so it points up to the MAP sensor.
Cut a length of the new plastic tubing (approximately 13 inches) to fit between the vacuum elbows and install it making sure there is enough slack for some engine movement. Route it according to the photo. We don’t want any rubbing or chafing with engine movement. Not a bad idea to use some contact cement or Gasga-Cinch sparingly on the tubing to elbow connectors.
THROTTLE BODY TO MAP SENSOR HOSE FIX
JANUARY 23, 2016 CRUISER54 43 COMMENTSThe Renix throttle bodies have a strange and failure prone connector on the side where the MAP supply originates and then runs up to the MAP sensor located on the firewall. This hose/pipe assembly is no longer available for purchase.The real kicker here is how critical this line is in supplying the correct vacuum signal to the MAP, the most relied upon sensor for the ECU to read regarding air/fuel ratio. Any cracks, melted spots, or loose rubber connectors can cause major starting and driveability issues.
There’s a simple fix though. All that’s required is a 1/8” NPT tap, a new throttle body gasket ( Napa FPG 60742 ), a vacuum fitting (Napa 05703-B102), two vacuum elbows (Napa CRB2670), and a length of new plastic piping (Napa CRB2672).
Remove the throttle body and take it to the workbench.
Using an oiled tap along with a driver, carefully thread the lower of the 2 holes of the throttle body where the old fitting was plugged in. Don’t go too deep. These are pipe threads.
Flush the hole with carb cleaner and inspect for any left over cuttings.
This is an excellent time to do a complete throttle body and IAC cleaning. See Tip 11.
Take the vacuum fitting (05703-B102 ) and apply a LITTLE bit of thread sealer on the threads only. I prefer Permatex #2 but almost anything is fine.
.
Carefully screw the fitting in until snug.
Install one of the vacuum elbows on the MAP sensor so it points toward the throttle body, and the other vacuum elbow on your new throttle body fitting so it points up to the MAP sensor.
Cut a length of the new plastic tubing (approximately 13 inches) to fit between the vacuum elbows and install it making sure there is enough slack for some engine movement. Route it according to the photo. We don’t want any rubbing or chafing with engine movement. Not a bad idea to use some contact cement or Gasga-Cinch sparingly on the tubing to elbow connectors.
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#26
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Year: 1990
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#29
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Year: 1990
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To all users of CF:
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5 minutes of your time doing this now will save a ton of time and effort later.
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PLEASE, before posting technical questions, take some time to help others out, by adding details in the user control panel. There's 2 ways to do this. First, in the upper left corner on the front page of the site, is a menu button labeled UserCP.
After you click on that you'll see this menu:
Please take the time to click on the highlighted sections and fill out the vehicle information for your vehicle. The signature link is also helpful for any additional information like mods done, links to your build or other vehicles owned.
This helps EVERYONE out by informing them immediately about your year, make, model, etc.
These details are necessary for responders to accurately answer your questions without guessing or having to ask what are the specifics of the vehicle you are referring to. You can add these details easily and permanently by creating a signature or adding your truck details to your existing signature.
5 minutes of your time doing this now will save a ton of time and effort later.
Thanks!!!
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