brakes soft still??!
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Roler quote: "No noise and pedal appears ok..."
Firestorm 500 quote: "I thought noise on application was mentioned. "
Roler quote: "nope"
Roler quote: Well, if the squishy sound isnt a bad thing, I dont really care...I reckon I've had it for quite a while, maybe even years, but never really paid attention to it. Just wanting to know if this is something I should keep chasing...
Firestorm 500 quote: "I thought noise on application was mentioned. "
Roler quote: "nope"
Roler quote: Well, if the squishy sound isnt a bad thing, I dont really care...I reckon I've had it for quite a while, maybe even years, but never really paid attention to it. Just wanting to know if this is something I should keep chasing...
Last edited by Firestorm500; Jan 27, 2014 at 03:22 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,170
Likes: 312
From: Australia
Year: 1997 (RHD)
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 ltr
EDIT: oh, you're confused about the presence/absence of noise. There is a squishy sounds when the brake pedal pressed down, thats what I meant. My bad if there is confusion. Nil other noises, cracks, squeeks etc.
Last edited by Roler; Jan 27, 2014 at 03:24 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 12
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Thanks for the edit.
Whenever I have had a power brake system do that, replacing the brake booster solved the whooshing problem for me.
Yeah, I still had brakes to stop with, but I got tired of that whooshing sound.
Whenever I have had a power brake system do that, replacing the brake booster solved the whooshing problem for me.
Yeah, I still had brakes to stop with, but I got tired of that whooshing sound.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Holiday, Fl
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
So i redid my back brakes entirely pads, spring hardware, adjusting repair kit, new cylinders just for good measure. Then bled and work like new
Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: Faiview,Pa.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with 96 cam and 19lb.four hole injectors
I must say, that over the last few weeks I have been indulging in tracking down the squishy pedal, that I think I've always had since I got the XJ.
replaced shoes, pads, rotors, ended up changing master cylinder all with nil improvement.
I bled the system, 5x, one man method, two man methos, heck I used 3x 750 ml in total during this, good enough to flush the whole system several times. If there is still air in there, I dont know how to get that out anymore, since I practically flushed everything that was in there, out, fluid +/- air.
Now about to replace my OEM front brake hoses...not fit with steel lines (those WILL give you most likely hard(er) pedal, but with rubber once first. Haven't got any leaks, and the breaks work ok, just that squishy sounds. Brakebooster working, no rod adjustment....
What I'm trying to say is: soft/squishy is likely air in the system, even in my case where I properly bled the system....more than 5x. So I'm open to suggestions on how to get that out (and maybe the OP too)...and despite I think my booster might actually cause that squishy sound, I've no indications my booster isn't working properly , going by the tests from the FSM...
replaced shoes, pads, rotors, ended up changing master cylinder all with nil improvement.
I bled the system, 5x, one man method, two man methos, heck I used 3x 750 ml in total during this, good enough to flush the whole system several times. If there is still air in there, I dont know how to get that out anymore, since I practically flushed everything that was in there, out, fluid +/- air.
Now about to replace my OEM front brake hoses...not fit with steel lines (those WILL give you most likely hard(er) pedal, but with rubber once first. Haven't got any leaks, and the breaks work ok, just that squishy sounds. Brakebooster working, no rod adjustment....
What I'm trying to say is: soft/squishy is likely air in the system, even in my case where I properly bled the system....more than 5x. So I'm open to suggestions on how to get that out (and maybe the OP too)...and despite I think my booster might actually cause that squishy sound, I've no indications my booster isn't working properly , going by the tests from the FSM...
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,170
Likes: 312
From: Australia
Year: 1997 (RHD)
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 ltr
Roler, any chance your rear wheel cylinders may not be up to par? What if you have a frozen or stuck puck or two. It would only push on one shoe instead of both and would flex the drum. What do you think? It might be something to check out. Also, did you adjust the rears to slightly drag?
yes, adjusted to slight drag (first step in the proces)...
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,170
Likes: 312
From: Australia
Year: 1997 (RHD)
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 ltr
You're right, so it must have been more than 2-3 years ago for that cylinder, because thats when I decided to start doing all the stuff myself and that cylinder was done in a shop...who only replaced the one...
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: Lansing, MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
As others have said, air in the system. Worn pads/shoes or wet shoes won't cause a squishy pedal. The only thing that causes that is air in the system.
A time consuming, but very easy way of bleeding out the whole system is known as the gravity bleed.
Put drain pans under each wheel, loosen the bleeders, take the master cylinder cap off and let the system drain. Refill the MC before it empties though otherwise you'll get a nice big gulp of air.
Letting the MC drain to near-empty and refilling it, then tightening all of the bleeders, should completely bleed out the system. There IS a small chance of air being trapped in the calipers/wheel cylinders, so you can re-bleed those the old fashioned way just to be sure.
A time consuming, but very easy way of bleeding out the whole system is known as the gravity bleed.
Put drain pans under each wheel, loosen the bleeders, take the master cylinder cap off and let the system drain. Refill the MC before it empties though otherwise you'll get a nice big gulp of air.
Letting the MC drain to near-empty and refilling it, then tightening all of the bleeders, should completely bleed out the system. There IS a small chance of air being trapped in the calipers/wheel cylinders, so you can re-bleed those the old fashioned way just to be sure.
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