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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 11:58 AM
  #1  
Squirrely's Avatar
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From: SE Michigan
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default Brakes & Lines

Can anyone point me to a how-to on replacing calipers, brake lines and fluid on a 2000 XJ? I didn't see what I was looking for in the Search function. I've never replaced the actual caliper and bled the lines, etc.

I have 80,000 miles on this 2000 XJ, but one caliper is sticking, and I'm thinking I should just replace everything with better parts. I'm thinking all new bolts too.

Any suggestions on calipers, etc.?

Thanks,

Dan
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 12:19 PM
  #2  
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From: Visalia, Kalifornia, ussa
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Pickup a Haynes or Chilton, they are pretty helpfull for this type of repair and other basic jobs and even some modifications, if you read between the lines. I have found Rockauto.com to be pretty good for general parts or Napa. I would replace everything as you are, It just makes sense. I would rebuild the rears while I was at it, peace of mind, thing. I would also pick-up a Vacum Bleeder, makes the job alot easier, one person operation. Just be sure to keep the fluid reservoir topped up, when bleeding. No idea on brands. But get the complete set that includes the pads and hardware, and metal pistons rather than the plastic ones. I would get new rotors and drums also. When doing the rebuild itself, do ONE Side at a time, this way you have the otherside to refer to when re-assymbling. When Bleeding start at the Pass rear wheel, then work your way toward the Master Cylinder, RR-LR-RF-LF.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 12:39 PM
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Year: 1992
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Originally Posted by 93gc40
Pickup a Haynes or Chilton, they are pretty helpfull for this type of repair and other basic jobs and even some modifications, if you read between the lines. I have found Rockauto.com to be pretty good for general parts or Napa. I would replace everything as you are, It just makes sense. I would rebuild the rears while I was at it, peace of mind, thing. I would also pick-up a Vacum Bleeder, makes the job alot easier, one person operation. Just be sure to keep the fluid reservoir topped up, when bleeding. No idea on brands. But get the complete set that includes the pads and hardware, and metal pistons rather than the plastic ones. I would get new rotors and drums also. When doing the rebuild itself, do ONE Side at a time, this way you have the otherside to refer to when re-assymbling. When Bleeding start at the Pass rear wheel, then work your way toward the Master Cylinder, RR-LR-RF-LF.
this ^ step by step instructions. you can buy one at any auto parts store
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 12:41 PM
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From: gloucester va
Year: 1990
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^x2
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 12:50 PM
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From: SE Michigan
Year: 2000
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Thanks guys. I recently replaced the pads and rotors--I didn't realize at the time that the caliper was starting to stick.

I assume I can reuse the pads--they're not that old....13,000 miles ago (last October)?

Thanks again.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #6  
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From: Everett, WA
Year: 1992
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Originally Posted by Squirrely
Thanks guys. I recently replaced the pads and rotors--I didn't realize at the time that the caliper was starting to stick.

I assume I can reuse the pads--they're not that old....13,000 miles ago (last October)?

Thanks again.
yes you will reuse the pads. on the caliper there are 2 bolts on the top of caliper. unbolt them. bang off caliper off the bracket. unbolt brakeline. yes brake fluid will come out of the line. bolt up new caliper onto the brake line. attach the 2 bolts that hold the caliper onto axle. bleed system and you are done!
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 01:55 PM
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Sounds easy enough......why do I have this vision of myself covered in brake fluid?! LOL

Should I stick with stock calipers, or is there another caliper I should be looking at?

Thanks all!

Last edited by Squirrely; Jun 28, 2010 at 02:02 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 02:05 PM
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Year: 1998
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Check the lines also, if the rubber flex line swells it could also cause the caliper to stick. This happened to my Dad's 99 blazer. He has new calipers he didn't need.

The way you can check is pump the brake hard then with the engine off and a rag over the the caliper break the bleeder screw. If fluid sprays out with pressure then you have a bad line or defective MC.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 02:06 PM
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From: Flint/Asheville
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 HO
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Bring from MI, make sure you use plenty of PB blaster and line wrenches (they are more like crescent moon shaped than regular wrench's) or else your going to round off the flare nuts and you dont want to do that. Ive broken so many brake lines on older MI cars that it gives me nightmares.
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 06:00 AM
  #10  
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Thanks for all the input everyone--good stuff. I think I'll start spraying the PB now! I'll likely do the calipers in 2-3 weeks.

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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Squirrely
Thanks for all the input everyone--good stuff. I think I'll start spraying the PB now! I'll likely do the calipers in 2-3 weeks.

just don't get that stuff on your brake pads or rotors! Especially if you are still driving it
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