awsgrayrd

So close to the finish and ran straight into a brick wall!

I started replacing everything in the rear. Everything from new shoes, drums, hardware(of course), and cables. I even replaced the e-brake assembly and the cable that is linked to the e-brake assembly and drops under the cab to the linkage box underneath the driver side of the cab.

Well the linkage "mechanism"/adjuster is all rusted and I would like to replace it. Unfortunately I can't find that linkage anywhere. I've tried O'reilly, NAPA, and the dealership.

Result: NOTHING!

Any Ideas?

V/r,
-Gray.

Here is what it looks like....

Willys55

heat the nut with a torch and back the nut off the bolt, then wire wheel the threads, cover in neversieze and reuse it....that's what I would do

awsgrayrd

Trust me! That was my original plan. If I was able to back it off, I was going to clean it up with the sandblaster and wire wheel it, and then slap the anti-seize on it.

V/r,
-Gray.

4.slow95

Junkyard! all day.

413maxwedge

Thats fixable, we've fixed worse on the wet end of a paper machine, thats really in good shape for sitting under a jeep.

awsgrayrd

Junkyards around here are a joke, and no way in hell will I get under one that could be eaily tipped over by a gust of wind!

Sounds good all, I'll just continue to work on it.

Thanks!

V/r,
-Gray.

rideordie66

put that in a bucket of oil over night or even over a week and try to take it apart then.

SilverHaze

lol...I was just looking for this same part a few months ago. Mine is so much more rusty. I sprayed it with some PB Blaster and in seconds rust started falling off the threads and about 5 min. later it was turning like new.

freegdr

should be able to find it herehttps://www.jeeppartsdept.com/jeep-c...-xj-parts.html

kjc

I'd split the nut & buck up for a new one Chase the bolt threads with a die maybe.

alpine.adrenaline

Submerge it in PB Blaster.
Or:
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/equaliz...-52001154.html

Bustedback

Bust a myth for us and soak it in Coke over night.

rrich

Just chemically remove the rust!

Mix one part pool acid with 3 parts water. Soak the parts in it for an hour or 3.
The rust turns black, and flakes off.

But first - use a solvent to get rid of all oil from the stuff that didn't work.

Interesting that nobody mentioned a dealer can get them.

Coke is just a mild acid too - but all oil has to be removed too.

awsgrayrd

Yeah, I've checked with the dealer. It's a discontinued item.

Well I guess I have yet to SOAK it. I'll try doing that when I leave for the condo for Xmas.

Thanks all. I'll let you all know what the verdict is.

V/r,
-Gray.

awsgrayrd

Well while I was enjoying Christmas up at Keystone, I had the brake equalizer soaking in PB Blaster. Without taking heat to it yet I was actually able to work the darn nut off, surprisingly enough!

When I get down to my old TIG welding shop for a project I'm working with them on I'm going to take it off and see if they can clean it up with the sand blaster and from there I'll primer it and change that nut and use a tap and die to clean it up again. Then slap some anti-seize on that bolt!

I went ahead and mounted everything just to see if it worked fine! It works, I finally have an e-brake!

I thought I was able to use the old e-brake handle, but unfortunately where the cable is held in place it worked itself through. Good thing I bought a new one at the dealer when I bought new brake lines for the rear.

Does anyone know if there is a specific setting for the tension on the e-brake when mounting the brake equalizer? Or is it personal preference?

Thanks all for the help! All appreciated!

V/r,
-Gray.