Brake Problems
I just installed new brakes on my Cherokee. new rotor, pads and caliper on the passenger front. turned rotor and pads on drivers front. new shoes and wheel cylinders on the rear drums. The drums looked ok, no grooves. Anyway the person who had it before me let the passenger front rotor disintegrate and that allowed the caliper piston to come out draining all the brake fluid. I've bleed the master cylinder and all four wheels. my brakes are still spongy and I don't really have any brakes unless I pump the pedal. Help!!
Also, the new caliper has the bleeder valve on the bottom and the old calipers have the bleeder valve on the top. I'm replacing the new caliper with one that puts the bleeder valve on the top and I'm going to do the rear brake mod and bleed the master cylinder and proportioning valve.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
SCARY!! Sounds like you might want to have somebody take a look at it. That caliper is upside down
on the wrong side.
At least make sure the slotted ends of the pads are up! I've never bled a proportioning valve.
A trick for bleeding by yourself, a tube long enough to sit in the drivers seat, leave your finger on the end while you slowly let the pedal up.
on the wrong side.
At least make sure the slotted ends of the pads are up! I've never bled a proportioning valve. A trick for bleeding by yourself, a tube long enough to sit in the drivers seat, leave your finger on the end while you slowly let the pedal up.
SCARY!! Sounds like you might want to have somebody take a look at it. That caliper is upside down
on the wrong side.
At least make sure the slotted ends of the pads are up! I've never bled a proportioning valve.
A trick for bleeding by yourself, a tube long enough to sit in the drivers seat, leave your finger on the end while you slowly let the pedal up.
on the wrong side.
At least make sure the slotted ends of the pads are up! I've never bled a proportioning valve. A trick for bleeding by yourself, a tube long enough to sit in the drivers seat, leave your finger on the end while you slowly let the pedal up.

No, it was the wrong caliper. I took the new caliper back and exchanged it for one with the bleeder valve on top. After install my son helped me bleed the new caliper and now I have brakes. However, I'm gonna have to flush the whole brake system and add new fluid. The fluid in the master cylinder appears to be contaminated.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Also, the new caliper has the bleeder valve on the bottom and the old calipers have the bleeder valve on the top. I'm replacing the new caliper with one that puts the bleeder valve on the top and I'm going to do the rear brake mod and bleed the master cylinder and proportioning valve.
Last edited by freegdr; Aug 22, 2011 at 01:18 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 322
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From: Sierra Vista AZ
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You can also try to do a "Reverse Bleed"
Leave the cap off the Master Cylinder,and use a pump style squirt oil can (The metal ones work best) with brake fluid in it. Open your bleeder on the wheel,attach a vacuum line to the bleeder and then to your oil can and slowly squeeze the squirt can.
This will chase the air "UP" where it naturally wants to go. Heard it works wonders on Hydraulic Clutches.
You can also gravity bleed your brakes
Take the cover off your Master Cylinder,top it off with brake fluid,then open each bleeder valve on the wheels. Pay attention to your level in the Master,dont let it get too low or youll introduce air back into the system.
After about 10-15 minutes,go back through and close up your bleeder valves,and top off your fluid. Dont forget to put your master cylinder cap back on.
They also make 1 man bleeder valves. They have a check valve in them so all you have to do is crack them open and press the brake pedal,you can do all 4 wheels at once with these installed in each wheel.
Leave the cap off the Master Cylinder,and use a pump style squirt oil can (The metal ones work best) with brake fluid in it. Open your bleeder on the wheel,attach a vacuum line to the bleeder and then to your oil can and slowly squeeze the squirt can.
This will chase the air "UP" where it naturally wants to go. Heard it works wonders on Hydraulic Clutches.
You can also gravity bleed your brakes
Take the cover off your Master Cylinder,top it off with brake fluid,then open each bleeder valve on the wheels. Pay attention to your level in the Master,dont let it get too low or youll introduce air back into the system.
After about 10-15 minutes,go back through and close up your bleeder valves,and top off your fluid. Dont forget to put your master cylinder cap back on.
They also make 1 man bleeder valves. They have a check valve in them so all you have to do is crack them open and press the brake pedal,you can do all 4 wheels at once with these installed in each wheel.
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