2000 XJ 4L auto 4WD. I decided to change my driver side axle u-joint since it was super rusty and I was getting some noises around there, and I figured I might as well do the driver side ball joints, driver side hub, and a brake job too. The caveat: I have never done any of this before. So here is where I am at - I have everything put back together, with a couple of casualties along the way. 1) I stripped a lug, so I will have to get some new ones, 2) I was an idiot and over-tightened the passenger upper caliper bolt, thinking I was loosening, and now the bolt just spins at then end of the threads and can't be torqued properly 3) My brake fluid is way passed full after compressing the caliper pistons.
1) Since my caliper bolt is just spinning, does that mean I totally ruined my knuckle and I need a new one? Is it kosher to get one from the junkyard?
2) What do I do with the overfilled brake fluid?
So I lied, I have more than just brake questions -
3) How big of a mistake is it for me to replace the ball joints, u-joint and hub assembly on only the driver side.
4) What is the best way to go about testing what I have replaced? I must have gotten my brakes kind of right, as I was able to turn my car around in my driveway with the brakes working, but I know they aren't suitable for driving since I can't properly torque the caliper bolt.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks y'all!
1) Since my caliper bolt is just spinning, does that mean I totally ruined my knuckle and I need a new one? Is it kosher to get one from the junkyard?
2) What do I do with the overfilled brake fluid?
So I lied, I have more than just brake questions -
3) How big of a mistake is it for me to replace the ball joints, u-joint and hub assembly on only the driver side.
4) What is the best way to go about testing what I have replaced? I must have gotten my brakes kind of right, as I was able to turn my car around in my driveway with the brakes working, but I know they aren't suitable for driving since I can't properly torque the caliper bolt.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks y'all!
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Lol yeah I should have figured that was vague. How would you go about driving it? I assume you wouldn't immediately go to highways speeds before checking the brakes work. I guess my question is: aside from just a cruise around the block, is there anything in particular I can do to verify that what I have replaced was replaced properly. My thought is, braking worked fine when I turned the car around in the driveway, even though I know I wouldn't want to go any further than my driveway with a caliper bolt that is loose.Originally Posted by Spencer_P
4 Not sure what you mean by test, just drive it.
I know this likely a dumb question and I am overthinking it, but I have never done brakes, and some piece of mind that your car can stop when it needs to is always nice.
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I kind of figured, but I don't really understand why? The parts won't wear evenly or something?Originally Posted by Spencer_P
3 I wouldn't
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Remove the bolt and see what is stripped, the knuckle or the bolt. Maybe you got lucky and stripped the bolt. If it is the knuckle, you will probably need to install a Heli-coil on the steering knuckle to repair the stripped thread. I wouldn't drive it with 1 of the 2 bolts stripped.
As mentioned, use a turkey baster to remove the extra brake fluid. Top off as necessary after you have fixed the stripped bolt/thread issue.
As mentioned, use a turkey baster to remove the extra brake fluid. Top off as necessary after you have fixed the stripped bolt/thread issue.
I also had a stripped knuckle. The threads on the OEM bolts are very shallow. I was able to use use a same size/thread pitch pitch bolt that had deeper threads and it worked great. If that fails, you can use something like this: https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.co...ir-Kit_c39.htm. I have also used this to fix a stripped knuckle:
. HAs held up on my current XJ for 4-5 years.
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Yes and no. I figure just get it all done while you've got it taken apart.Originally Posted by JerpCherooke
I kind of figured, but I don't really understand why? The parts won't wear evenly or something?
For testing, just take it for a nice drive and see if you notice anything.
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As mentioned, use a turkey baster to remove the extra brake fluid. Top off as necessary after you have fixed the stripped bolt/thread issue.
Originally Posted by jpz
Remove the bolt and see what is stripped, the knuckle or the bolt. Maybe you got lucky and stripped the bolt. If it is the knuckle, you will probably need to install a Heli-coil on the steering knuckle to repair the stripped thread. I wouldn't drive it with 1 of the 2 bolts stripped.As mentioned, use a turkey baster to remove the extra brake fluid. Top off as necessary after you have fixed the stripped bolt/thread issue.
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Looks like I need a tap and die kit for all of these products, Heli-coil included - is that correct? I don't have a tap and die set. Sounds like a junkyard knuckle is out of the question?Originally Posted by dzywicki
I also had a stripped knuckle. The threads on the OEM bolts are very shallow. I was able to use use a same size/thread pitch pitch bolt that had deeper threads and it worked great. If that fails, you can use something like this: https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.co...ir-Kit_c39.htm. I have also used this to fix a stripped knuckle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. HAs held up on my current XJ for 4-5 years.
Also, I'm pretty sure I stripped the knuckle and not the bolt as I tried a couple of different bolts.
Also, as far as using a baster to get brake fluid out, are there any precautions I should take? I always hear about contaminating the brake fluid - is it anything to worry about?
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I'd be more cautious of spilling brake fluid than contaminating it.Originally Posted by JerpCherooke
Also, as far as using a baster to get brake fluid out, are there any precautions I should take? I always hear about contaminating the brake fluid - is it anything to worry about?
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Forgive me for the dumb question... What happens if you spill brake fluid? Not just a simple rag clean up? Originally Posted by Spencer_P
I'd be more cautious of spilling brake fluid than contaminating it.
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For testing, just take it for a nice drive and see if you notice anything.
Okay. I guess I want to drive it around a bit once I new lugs and a caliper fixed so I can see everything on the driver side working properly before I tear apart the passenger side. 10-20 miles with just driver side done should be okay then? Originally Posted by Spencer_P
Yes and no. I figure just get it all done while you've got it taken apart.For testing, just take it for a nice drive and see if you notice anything.
Old fart with a wrench
Brake fluid can soften the paint and stain it.
With new parts in one side, you've brought everything back into proper alignment so it may steer and ride funny until you get the other side done. No big deal for a rock crawler, but bad on the highway.
With new parts in one side, you've brought everything back into proper alignment so it may steer and ride funny until you get the other side done. No big deal for a rock crawler, but bad on the highway.
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Yes, that would be fine.Originally Posted by JerpCherooke
Okay. I guess I want to drive it around a bit once I new lugs and a caliper fixed so I can see everything on the driver side working properly before I tear apart the passenger side. 10-20 miles with just driver side done should be okay then?
Brake fluid is corrosive and would need to be washed off with water and some dish soap.




