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Brake booster and MC upgrade...
07-11-2008, 11:29 AM
#1
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Brake booster and MC upgrade...
Anyone with earlier model XJ's pre 95 ever put the 95 or 96 brake booster/MC in? Reason I ask is those are suppose to be direct bolt ons for th 91-94 xj's and offer the dual diaphragm for better braking?
07-11-2008, 12:18 PM
#3
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Well I am heading to the JY tomorrow so I am going to look for one...If I can find all the parts needed I am going to snag it and then buy a new MC and hopefully improve the brakes a bit...Add it to the list of stuff for my schedule between semesters..
07-11-2008, 12:31 PM
#4
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7 Stroker
I have a 1995 booster and MC on my 1990.
Two options. Either get the entire brake pedal, brake light switch etc from the donor jeep...OR be prepared to install and test a few times to get the brake light working properly.
From what I HEAR and not proof...the 1995 was the best/only year as a donor for my 1990 upgrade. I believe they changed something in 1996.
As for the pedal connection. You will need to drill out the hole to receive the pin setup from your current pedal. There is a plastic bushing in the current MC arm hole. Don't lose that as you will need it for the new MC arm. Drill hole to same size, insert bushing, reassemble.
FYI there is a foam gasket on the donor jeep behind the MC at the firewall. There is ALSO a .25in plate behind the foam...GET BOTH you need the plate spacer and the foam to seal the hole.
Make sure you get a non-abs booster/MC from the donor. ABS model had some issue with hook up.
If going to disc brakes at some point...get a ZJ brake prop valve 1996-1998. Install it while your in there. Easier in the long run...as the 95 booster will block all future access to prop valve easily.
As for lines. 10 people, 10 different ideas. I took my old prop valve lines off. Went to the local auto supply shop. Got new line...Took old fittings off old lines...Cut new line to 12" sections...Installed old fittings on new 12" lines and had THEM flare it. Bent new lines the way I needed them when I got home.
Some people get these different fittings and try to adapt.
BTW if you put in the ZJ prop valve...I think the fittings are different again. So make sure you CUT the lines from the zj prop valve and bring the ends with you home from the JY. Then you can have the ZJ fittings flared on with the 95 MC fittings to 12" lines.
Its all about creative cutting at the junkyard
Two options. Either get the entire brake pedal, brake light switch etc from the donor jeep...OR be prepared to install and test a few times to get the brake light working properly.
From what I HEAR and not proof...the 1995 was the best/only year as a donor for my 1990 upgrade. I believe they changed something in 1996.
As for the pedal connection. You will need to drill out the hole to receive the pin setup from your current pedal. There is a plastic bushing in the current MC arm hole. Don't lose that as you will need it for the new MC arm. Drill hole to same size, insert bushing, reassemble.
FYI there is a foam gasket on the donor jeep behind the MC at the firewall. There is ALSO a .25in plate behind the foam...GET BOTH you need the plate spacer and the foam to seal the hole.
Make sure you get a non-abs booster/MC from the donor. ABS model had some issue with hook up.
If going to disc brakes at some point...get a ZJ brake prop valve 1996-1998. Install it while your in there. Easier in the long run...as the 95 booster will block all future access to prop valve easily.
As for lines. 10 people, 10 different ideas. I took my old prop valve lines off. Went to the local auto supply shop. Got new line...Took old fittings off old lines...Cut new line to 12" sections...Installed old fittings on new 12" lines and had THEM flare it. Bent new lines the way I needed them when I got home.
Some people get these different fittings and try to adapt.
BTW if you put in the ZJ prop valve...I think the fittings are different again. So make sure you CUT the lines from the zj prop valve and bring the ends with you home from the JY. Then you can have the ZJ fittings flared on with the 95 MC fittings to 12" lines.
Its all about creative cutting at the junkyard
07-11-2008, 12:36 PM
#5
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Sweet thanks for the heads up on that....I"ll hunt down a 95 as it seems to be the most compatible...Got my notes in hand tomorrow and hopefully a score.. I really don't want to buy all new parts as that's way to costly on the booster and MC...
I really don't want to buy all new parts as that's way to costly on the booster and MC...
07-11-2008, 12:40 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7 Stroker
If you are interested, I have the ZJ rear brake setup I have been trying to sell.
With the 95 booster, ZJ prop valve and 4 wheel discs...I can lock up 36s pretty easy
Now with bigger axles, I don't need the rear brake kit.
With the 95 booster, ZJ prop valve and 4 wheel discs...I can lock up 36s pretty easy
Now with bigger axles, I don't need the rear brake kit.
07-11-2008, 12:42 PM
#7
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I won't be doing any disc brake updates till I either get a 97+ 8.25, D44 or ford 8.8..Not putting any money into this D35 at all...Thanks for the offer though..
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07-11-2008, 12:55 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7 Stroker
No problem. Figured I might save you some time and effort at the JY. Get your 8.25 or 44 first. Brake setup fits on both. :thumb:
07-11-2008, 10:55 PM
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Year: 1988 (all of them)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, 4.6, and wore-out 4.0
I am changing over to the late model stuff this weekend, and if I can get my friend to let me use his Digi, I will photo the swap, and submit it. I bought a COMPLETE '98 Sport for $300 this evening, so LET THE STRIP FEST BEGIN!!!!! 
07-11-2008, 11:38 PM
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Year: 1988 (all of them)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, 4.6, and wore-out 4.0
Yeah, I've allready got the knuckles and calipers to do that with. I like the thought of OTK steering for cheap, and ease of finding replacement parts. By the way, if anyone tries this, watch out for the calipers, as the Akebono(sp?) are like $400 each to replace, yet the cheap ones are like $40 at Autozone. Dual piston calipers, OTK steering and better M/C & booster set-up hopefully equals "I said STOP and I mean NOW!!!"
07-12-2008, 09:47 PM
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Year: 1988 (all of them)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, 4.6, and wore-out 4.0
I'm not stripping. I meant that I am stripping the '98 and changing some of the parts over to my other rides.
Blue, you're not going to get a nosebleed at this altitude are you?
Blue, you're not going to get a nosebleed at this altitude are you?