Blocked bolts for the tailpipe hanger bracket. Plus, angle grinder update!!
SubscribeSo, I had a push attachment for one of the forklifts take a dump yesterday, and had to start a repair. So, I needed to cut some bolts, to weld the threaded portion to hold the plastic scraper to the attachment. Started using a sawzall, and got through 3 of them. But the bolts are hardened steel, and I used both blades I had left, and it toasted them quick. We were also out of cutoff wheels. So, I used this:

Along with these:


To do this:


That's right folks...I cut through a hardened steel bolt, with nothing more than a grinding disk. Took less than 2 minutes. I even did it twice, just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. LOL

Along with these:


To do this:


That's right folks...I cut through a hardened steel bolt, with nothing more than a grinding disk. Took less than 2 minutes. I even did it twice, just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. LOL
Quote:
When you broke the bolt head off, how did you then remove the bolt from behind? Originally Posted by LAF1269
You do NOT need an impact to remove these bolts. Depending on the size of your impact gun, you may not even budge them with it anyway. There has been more than one bolt on my XJ that none of my impacts would move at all (using air, corded, or cordless). All you need is the correct size socket, a 1/2" breaker bar, correct size extension, and a section of pipe for leverage (3/4" should work). Assemble these items in this order: socket-extension-breaker bar-pipe (over breaker bar handle)-hands. Attach this assembly to the head of the bolt, and then turn (remember righty tighty, lefty loosey). It will either break loose, or break the bolt. If it shears the bolt, then you can be assured that the rest of the bolts probably are in the same condition and you'll have to replace the nutstrips (after you shear the rest of the bolts off too so that you can remove them). If you still can't budge the bolts you have three options: 1. get a bigger pipe. 2. Pull harder (or hit the gym). 3. Throw in the towel and sell the Jeep (it doesn't get any easier than this). The bolts on the rear of mine were completely seized and I had to break the bolt heads/mangle the nutstrips to remove them. There isn't one bolt on these things that can't be spun with a breaker bar and a long enough lever.
I am not going to attempt removing the bumper, as it probably has even bigger rustier bolts to contend with.
Seasoned Member
It has 4 smaller bolts actually, just a bit harder to get at (well 2 are annoying, two are easy as ****) ... When you snap the bolt head off the other side is just going into a nut strip. It a captured plate with nuts welded to it. You have no hitch so that one bolt is all there is on it. And there is no one saying they will snap. Mine never did, and I had to remove 4 per side to remove my hitch.
You cut the exhaust clamp, kudos to you ... Now you should easily be able to push the tailpipe to the side and get an extension in there. Like has been mentioned several times.
Stop over thinking everything, it's less difficult than you make it on yourself.
You cut the exhaust clamp, kudos to you ... Now you should easily be able to push the tailpipe to the side and get an extension in there. Like has been mentioned several times.
Stop over thinking everything, it's less difficult than you make it on yourself.
Member
Rock, If he goes the four bolt method he will still have to remove the 2 hex head screws per end cap. I don't remember if there was enough clearance with the stock bumper brackets to get the nut strip out. I know that with my JCR bumper I can not get to the nut strips because it doesn't have enough clearance between the top of the upward bend in the nut strip and the bottom of the integrated mounting plate. Also my exhaust hanger bracket has always had 2 bolts in it.
Seasoned Member
Quote:
If you end up shearing the bolts, the only way you will be able to remove the remaining portion of the bolt and nutstrip will be to remove the bumper. The nutstrips fit into the frame rails through an access hole that's located underneath the bumper bracket. The brackets have 4 bolts on each side. A few of them are a PITA to get to, but it's not that difficult. If the worst case scenario happens, and removing the bumper is off the table, I guess you could just go back to the coat hanger method and call it a day. Just slap a Rough Country sticker on it. Nobody will know the difference.Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
When you broke the bolt head off, how did you then remove the bolt from behind? I am not going to attempt removing the bumper, as it probably has even bigger rustier bolts to contend with.
Good news and minor bad news.
I took Basshark7's advice and just tried my 18mm 1/2" socket along with a long pipe. My plans was that if the bolt snapped, I'd just leave the other one alone, and abort this job, and stick with the coat hanger.
But, the bolts easily started to move with all that leverage. So, I am now going to order the $15 bracket and will install it this weekend. I also need to order a clamp.
The problem is that my original thread was deleted, and I can't find the link to the $15 bracket on Amazon anymore. It was something by Walker, I remember that.
Thanks for sticking with this thread, I know that n00bs can be very frustrating.
I took Basshark7's advice and just tried my 18mm 1/2" socket along with a long pipe. My plans was that if the bolt snapped, I'd just leave the other one alone, and abort this job, and stick with the coat hanger.
But, the bolts easily started to move with all that leverage. So, I am now going to order the $15 bracket and will install it this weekend. I also need to order a clamp.
The problem is that my original thread was deleted, and I can't find the link to the $15 bracket on Amazon anymore. It was something by Walker, I remember that.
Thanks for sticking with this thread, I know that n00bs can be very frustrating.
Ok, I found it.
Does anyone know the u-bolt clamp size to order?
2 1/4 or 2 1/2 ?
Does anyone know the u-bolt clamp size to order?
2 1/4 or 2 1/2 ?
CF Veteran
Quote:
I took Basshark7's advice and just tried my 18mm 1/2" socket along with a long pipe. My plans was that if the bolt snapped, I'd just leave the other one alone, and abort this job, and stick with the coat hanger.
But, the bolts easily started to move with all that leverage. So, I am now going to order the $15 bracket and will install it this weekend. I also need to order a clamp.
The problem is that my original thread was deleted, and I can't find the damn link to the $15 bracket on Amazon anymore. I only see $25 brackets. Can't even find the part number I posted either. God damn it.
It was something by Walker, I remember that.
Thanks for sticking with this thread, I know that n00bs can be very frustrating.
Good work getting the bolts out.Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
Good news and minor bad news.I took Basshark7's advice and just tried my 18mm 1/2" socket along with a long pipe. My plans was that if the bolt snapped, I'd just leave the other one alone, and abort this job, and stick with the coat hanger.
But, the bolts easily started to move with all that leverage. So, I am now going to order the $15 bracket and will install it this weekend. I also need to order a clamp.
The problem is that my original thread was deleted, and I can't find the damn link to the $15 bracket on Amazon anymore. I only see $25 brackets. Can't even find the part number I posted either. God damn it.
It was something by Walker, I remember that.
Thanks for sticking with this thread, I know that n00bs can be very frustrating.
The U-Bolt clamp is 2-1/4".
Ken, you're the man. You're a great teacher.
I ordered this
I ordered this
Member
I hope you don't plan on moving your cherokee until you get that new exhaust hanger bolted in otherwise you might lose the nut strip in the rail and end up with a very annoying rattle. If you do need to move it just put the bolts back in semi tight. Also when you do install everything again don't use the pipe, it is way too easy to over torque and accidentally snap the bolts. If you have some split lock washers laying around that are the right size, it might be worth it to put one on each bolt before threading into the nut, they apply tension to the bolt and should reduce the potential of them to back out but nothing is fail-proof.
Senior Member
I hope they stop deleting your threads Bimmer, they bring me great joy.
You're clearly not dumb based on what I've read, I think you just need to use some good old fasion ingenuity fella. These things you get hung up on are not insurmountable obstacles, get a little creative and think your way around these hang ups.
You're clearly not dumb based on what I've read, I think you just need to use some good old fasion ingenuity fella. These things you get hung up on are not insurmountable obstacles, get a little creative and think your way around these hang ups.
CF Veteran
Quote:
I ordered this
Amazon.com: Walker (35413) 2-1/4" Standard Duty U-Bolt Exhaust Clamp: Automotive
Congrats? I'm pretty sure they're cheaper than that at most auto parts stores. As far as your "rivet" looking thing on the exhaust clamp, its a flange nut. Also why not just cut through the u bolt itself up above the bottom of the clamp? Much easier.Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
Ken, you're the man. You're a great teacher.I ordered this
Amazon.com: Walker (35413) 2-1/4" Standard Duty U-Bolt Exhaust Clamp: Automotive
CF Veteran
Quote:
Preposterous!Originally Posted by roninofako
That's right folks...I cut through a hardened steel bolt, with nothing more than a grinding disk. Took less than 2 minutes. I even did it twice, just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. LOL





