BIG lift ?
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,112
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From: Wantage, NJ
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Mine is stiff, but Im not a climber, I trail/mud/bog so flex is not important. Its just clearing them but enough to not rub, only time I did was hitting train tracks at 50mph, rear end hit pretty hard, no damage.
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,371
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From: morrisonville ny
Year: 2000 @ 1994 givin away
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
^. I did NO cutting with 6.5 and I clear 35"s with no rub.
Military uses thin deep grooved tires for a reason. What do rally cars use? Thinner. Also take a look at most 4x4's with plows. They all use tall narrow tires. Narrow tires are better for winter, more weight in one area, helps it grip and cut into the snow, where with wider ones its less weight distributed over area which gives you less traction. Tires should be thinner. Due to them having a thinner wheel base, the tire will have more pressure on the road surface, thus allowing the tires to penetrate the snow layer and grip harder snow or road surface beneath.
Military uses thin deep grooved tires for a reason. What do rally cars use? Thinner. Also take a look at most 4x4's with plows. They all use tall narrow tires. Narrow tires are better for winter, more weight in one area, helps it grip and cut into the snow, where with wider ones its less weight distributed over area which gives you less traction. Tires should be thinner. Due to them having a thinner wheel base, the tire will have more pressure on the road surface, thus allowing the tires to penetrate the snow layer and grip harder snow or road surface beneath.
And yes road veichles skinny tires the better you are in the snow.Last edited by rich; Sep 1, 2010 at 07:11 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,839
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From: West Deptford, NJ
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 842
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From: Guilderland NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 w/ K&N and bored TB
I ran 8" skyjacker springs and 1" blocks and had no issues with drive lines. I also had a SYE with a CV rear drive shaft. You should be ok with the drive shafts. Steering, brake lines, all that other stuff is where you will run into problems.
As for 6.5" of lift, 35's, no cutting and no rubbing.....I guess that will work if you have about zero up travel. My first lift was 6" and I ran 33's and they rubbed like a mother. So much that they actually bent my front fenders. I should mention that the rubbing was at full stuff, at ride height they did not rub even turned lock to lock.
As for 6.5" of lift, 35's, no cutting and no rubbing.....I guess that will work if you have about zero up travel. My first lift was 6" and I ran 33's and they rubbed like a mother. So much that they actually bent my front fenders. I should mention that the rubbing was at full stuff, at ride height they did not rub even turned lock to lock.
Sounds like you need bumpstops.
I'm at 3" on 33's, it doesnt rub... at all. I've seen 35's on as little as 3 inches.
Your best bet is like ~5-6 and trim/bumpstop, unless you want the body clearance for mud/snow but even then, over 8 is really not needed.
And if you are doing really deep snow you are gonna want wide *** tires. Skinny tires are great if the snow is less than like 2 feet, more than that and they suck.
Last edited by Iant333; Sep 1, 2010 at 08:01 PM.
Sounds like you need bumpstops.
I'm at 3" on 33's, it doesnt rub... at all. I've seen 35's on as little as 3 inches.
Your best bet is like ~5-6 and trim/bumpstop, unless you want the body clearance for mud/snow but even then, over 8 is really not needed.
And if you are doing really deep snow you are gonna want wide *** tires. Skinny tires are great if the snow is less than like 2 feet, more than that and they suck.
I'm at 3" on 33's, it doesnt rub... at all. I've seen 35's on as little as 3 inches.
Your best bet is like ~5-6 and trim/bumpstop, unless you want the body clearance for mud/snow but even then, over 8 is really not needed.
And if you are doing really deep snow you are gonna want wide *** tires. Skinny tires are great if the snow is less than like 2 feet, more than that and they suck.
Honestly you could probably run 35's with no lift if you wanted to trim enough. Of course you wouldn't have much fender left.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 397
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From: I'm bad, I'm nationwide.
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
go ten inches man right on. Everything is going to be a headache at that height so just swap it all out axles and everything do it all right. I would worry about safe steering at that height.
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Cove, OR
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Best bet to run a Cherokee in DEEP snow would be short lift maybe 35 inch tall tires 13.50-15.50 inches wide, and if you have to tub the rear, and remove the inner fenders in front to get the clearance you need.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,112
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From: Wantage, NJ
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
What do you consider big tires? If you're planning on running DEEP snow with a Cherokee think about full size axles to be able to get tall wide tires to fit without making it to tall. ( If you're talking about something like a 42 inch IROC or something similar ) a 10 inch lift plus 6 or 7 inches of tire side wall height on axles that are somewhere in the 60 inch WMS-WMS you'll fop it on its side the first time you hit a 3 foot drop in the snow. Besides that the stock axles will not hold up to really large tires.
Best bet to run a Cherokee in DEEP snow would be short lift maybe 35 inch tall tires 13.50-15.50 inches wide, and if you have to tub the rear, and remove the inner fenders in front to get the clearance you need.
Best bet to run a Cherokee in DEEP snow would be short lift maybe 35 inch tall tires 13.50-15.50 inches wide, and if you have to tub the rear, and remove the inner fenders in front to get the clearance you need.
35x9.5 or 10.5 for deep snow.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 45
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From: Sedro-Woolley,WA
Year: 86
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 FI
I guess when I think big tires on a cherokee I think 35 or 36's and I was thinlin around 13.50's. OTK steering and a drop pitman should fix the steering. My only real concern is brake lines. Aren't YJ lines longer?
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 397
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From: I'm bad, I'm nationwide.
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
on a tire that wide you have to watch your backspacing depending on the tire you use. If you have shallow backspacing so the tires don't rub the inner fenders all the time you put alot of stress on the bearings and they will go out. Same if you use wheel spacers. On 33's and below not such a biggie but on those 35's well your gettin in the bearing wear zone there especially when we start talkin bout real wide ones.
Only way around that is an even backspacing that puts the tire centered around the bearing on the hub but for that to work you need a much wider axle.
IF your gonna do it go all the way!
What kinda snow you talking about. Like up and down the road snow or back country try to stay on top of the deep stuff?
Only way around that is an even backspacing that puts the tire centered around the bearing on the hub but for that to work you need a much wider axle.
IF your gonna do it go all the way!
What kinda snow you talking about. Like up and down the road snow or back country try to stay on top of the deep stuff?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 45
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From: Sedro-Woolley,WA
Year: 86
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 FI
I know stock YJ won't work. But I can buy one for a 6" lift and it would be like a 9" for an XJ. Then I can just move the hard line mount in the front and find the longest lines I can. It should work



wow, that's about all I can say.