Best way to check tie rods
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 94
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From: St Charles, IL
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
hey guys. have a little play in the steering...stock susp. i jacked up the front wheels and get no play when trying to shake the wheels (side to side or top to bottom). is there a better way to check tierods? maybe i just need alignment...dunno. thanks.
Last edited by Savage71; Nov 15, 2011 at 09:12 PM.
CF Veteran
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From: somewhere Gee oh Dee cant find me...
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
there really isnt a better way, but if they are the original tie rods that are on from the factory, odds are that they need to be replaced
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Seal Beach, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
How many miles on the jeep? They don't stay perfect forever so they may need to be replaced. Disconnect them individually and move them around. If they move freely, replace them (they should have some resistance when wiggling)
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
How about with the wheels on the ground or on ramps, watch real close underneath with good light while someone turns the wheel a little left and right. You should find it. I've seen searing boxes get loose also.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 94
Likes: 2
From: St Charles, IL
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Central AZ desert
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'd like to RESPECTFULLY suggest a much more effective way of checking your tie rod ends. First, get the jack out from under your Jeep, ya don't need, or want, it off the ground. You cannot successfully check a tie rod end unless it's bearing a load.
Get a six pack of your buddies favorite beer, cause yer gonna need some help with this, but it goes quickly.
Start the engine, leave the trans in P, or neutral if manual, chock a rear wheel or set a working E-brake. Have your buddy in the driver seat, and you under the front end with a good droplight so you can see well.
While your buddy SLOWLY turns the steering wheel back and forth, L-R-L-R-L-R continously, in only rather short increments (maybe 45 to 60 degrees total), you take a good close look at the stem of the rod end, checking to see if there is relative movement between the housing and the stem. It's normal for some movement of the top part of the stem, but you want to see no movement in any direction of the stem base in the housing part. Make sure you check to insure the castle nut is tight on the threads of the stem. That could be a "gotcha". If you see more than just a very few (.005") thousandths play, replace that rod end. This same method is used at each tie rod end, and at the Pitman arm if your's has a rod end connecting the drag link.
HTH
Bob
Well, looks like Flintstone types faster than I do. He's got it right too!
Get a six pack of your buddies favorite beer, cause yer gonna need some help with this, but it goes quickly.
Start the engine, leave the trans in P, or neutral if manual, chock a rear wheel or set a working E-brake. Have your buddy in the driver seat, and you under the front end with a good droplight so you can see well.
While your buddy SLOWLY turns the steering wheel back and forth, L-R-L-R-L-R continously, in only rather short increments (maybe 45 to 60 degrees total), you take a good close look at the stem of the rod end, checking to see if there is relative movement between the housing and the stem. It's normal for some movement of the top part of the stem, but you want to see no movement in any direction of the stem base in the housing part. Make sure you check to insure the castle nut is tight on the threads of the stem. That could be a "gotcha". If you see more than just a very few (.005") thousandths play, replace that rod end. This same method is used at each tie rod end, and at the Pitman arm if your's has a rod end connecting the drag link.
HTH
Bob
Well, looks like Flintstone types faster than I do. He's got it right too!
Last edited by azhobo; Nov 15, 2011 at 11:58 PM. Reason: late!
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 94
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From: St Charles, IL
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
With my buddy turning the wheel, I could see movement in the TRE near the Pitman Arm. Replaced it last night...took an hour. BIG improvement in steering. Thanks for the help guys. Love this forum!
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Once a shop changed my mom's tie-rod. (Scout 2). A few months later I noticed her new front tires where worn away. Boneheads hadn't set the toe-in! Ground'm right off.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 94
Likes: 2
From: St Charles, IL
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The only things holding me back on the lift are those rear shock and shackle bolts...and the fact that my tires have about 30k left on them.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Yep, they replaced them. Who knew that little old lady had such a large angry son! I have this in case anyone is interested;
Toe in Adjustment. (a little toe-in helps keep things from wobbling)
Jack up a wheel, spin it and spray paint a small stripe on the tread. Then steadying it with a block, spin it again and use a ball-point or something to make a nice line in/on the paint. Do the other. Flat and level, role the car straight forward to a stop. Toe-in specs are for at the rim bead. I've had good results with 1/8-3/16 in. at the tread on 15 in. stock tires. If you can't stretch a tape across you can transfer down to a piece of cardboard tapped down with a level. Double check your work. I haven’t had much luck ending up with the steering wheel perfectly straight.
To feel for bad toe-in wear I run (4) fingers lightly in, then out across the tread. Sometimes you can feel it “feathered” one way or the other. $$$ way to travel!
Toe in Adjustment. (a little toe-in helps keep things from wobbling)
Jack up a wheel, spin it and spray paint a small stripe on the tread. Then steadying it with a block, spin it again and use a ball-point or something to make a nice line in/on the paint. Do the other. Flat and level, role the car straight forward to a stop. Toe-in specs are for at the rim bead. I've had good results with 1/8-3/16 in. at the tread on 15 in. stock tires. If you can't stretch a tape across you can transfer down to a piece of cardboard tapped down with a level. Double check your work. I haven’t had much luck ending up with the steering wheel perfectly straight.
To feel for bad toe-in wear I run (4) fingers lightly in, then out across the tread. Sometimes you can feel it “feathered” one way or the other. $$$ way to travel!
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