LOL

 

Why do you like them alot?

 

10w30 dino with the "coolest" looking bottle, and fram filter.
I've been using fram filters for about 23 years, and haven't had one come apart or fail on me yet.

 

PH16 is correct. You need 6 qts.

Any filter will work. Some do their job lightly, some do it like a possessed worker aiming for a merit raise. Just make sure the oil is changed regularly and don't be like my previous owner.

 

I will send you a pm answering these. I don't want to hijack a thread.

 

I use Valvoline racing oil. It is formulated for engines that may have a little blow by in the rings, all racing engines do. The oil will burn and not leave any deposits on the plugs. You can run them as long as yo want to and they will come out clean.

 

Call it overkill or whatever, but right now I'm using AMSOIL 20-50 high-zinc formula, and amsoil filter. I use 20-50 because it can get extremely hot in the summer here.

 

I use 20-50W also. It will make your engine last longer. The lower viscosity stuff is used at the factory to bump the milage stats up.

 

I use Castrol oil, and a Mopar mo-090 filter (both found at walmart) the filter is the same for my XJ and my 01' Durango, so i buy a case every year at tax time.

I personally will never use Mobile 1 oil, due to the wax buildup i have seen and witnessed with smaller engines such as the 2.0 and 2.5 Boxer motor in WRX's.. there are atleast 10 cases of blown motors being traced back to Mobil 1 oil on Nasioc.com

 

I've never heard of it with Mobil One...Penzoil and Q-state, or anything else that used to be made with Pennsylvania crude.. but not Mobil One. Looks like some reading is in order.

 

I generally run whatever oil happens to be on sale, and put Purolator filters on all of my vehicles. Back when I had my Subaru we did a little research and found out that Purolator made the OEM filters for Subaru. I figure if they're good enough for Subaru to use from th factory, they're good enough for me.

 

Just change your oil every 3k & you will be just fine period... You may want to try an additive like Wynns every now & then....

 

Castrol GTX high mileage 10w-40. and a Fram. I change my oil every 2500 or so, Looking under my oil cap; My valve train is 100% sludge free(relative to my 136k miles) I got the Jeep with 106k on it. I started with Quaker state high mileage, then went to GTX, then did Royal Purple for about 1 and a half oil changes (once I heard about the govs. call for reducing zinc and whatnot) Plus Royal Purple is more beneficial for newer style engines anyway.

 

Thinking about switching to Synthetic oil. My question is if I normally run recommended 10w-30 dino oil should I just do a straight switch to 10w-30 synthetic?

Seems like a simple question but just wanted some others opinions. Thanks!

 

SWITCH!!! I swear by synthetic oil and I run it in everything I own even my tractors and my atv... But back on topic; there are some synthetic oils you can switch straight from dino to, and there are some you have to change to semi-syn before going to true synthetic.
I run Valvoline Synpower 10w30 in my XJ and it says right on the bottle that it is safe to directly switch from conventional.
Also according to the Jeep Cherokee owner's manual, you can go up to 7,500 miles on one oil change while running synthetic as long as you don't do any hardcore wheeling and you stay away from dusty conditions (if you do those, change the oil every 3,000 to be safe). I'm at 4100 miles on my oil right now and I check the color and level weekly and it's still an amber color. Pretty imressive huh? lol