this is the best youre getting for tonight lol

 

if I put the new cap how the old cap was then 1 is where the connector plug wire is at

 

I;m aiming for someone being dumb.. we didn't do the distributor when we didn't do the plugs and wires... maybe they weren't wired up correctly.. all I really know about these things if you put a plug wire in the middle the thing wont work.. and I'm not sure the firing order was correct initially.. but since they were all off, its moot.. which side does the knobby bit on the cap go?

my husband is good enough he put a gm distributor and alternator on a ford... exhibit a (plus I think theyre cool)

 

old pic... the one with just the boot was hooked up to plug 1.. it was the only wire missing a boot...

 

post #14 shows how its supposed to be.

 

its ok. I'm not doing much tomorrow either lol

 

It is good that you know where the timing scale is. The mark is going to be on the aft most edge of the balancer, just a little v filed out. Right now the rotor isn't pointing at #1 though, it's still coming around to #2. If necessary you will have to rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing towards the #1 post on the cap. Only then will you then go look for the timing mark. But I've asked some questions in the background, maybe we'll get a favorable response and just keep assembling. You did very good today.

 

well... its dark now so we will do more tomorrow...
but wait, theres more..

 

You must make sure engine is on #1 TDC. First and foremost.

With all the spark plugs out of the engine, crank the engine by hand and note when the balancer timing mark is coming up toward the scale on the engine. Put a finger over #1 spark plug hole. If there's pressure as turning the engine , you're coming up on #1. If not, you're coming up on #4. Go around again and verify you're on #1 with pressure if you didn't have that initially. Keep in mind you must clean off the scale on the engine to find true 0. It's marked there. It's not where you have the mark rotated to now.

 

maybe this was correct?

 

so is that white what I am looking for?

 

I, and I think he, assumed you put the white mark on the face of the balancer. If not, there is no relevance to the white mark. Your new rotor was put back to the exact place the old one was removed. There is no question about that. I had you target a landmark (white mark on the block) to align the rotors too. This had potential to be an easier way for you to swap in the new distributor, instead of first putting the engine at top dead center. Your old distributor was modified so it could be turned. The fact that it was turned so far out of relation to the new distributor, which is in the factory correct location, leads to concerns that the new distributor will need to be rotated as well, or there is a bigger timing issue that hasn't been discovered yet. All the ambiguity is my fault for gambling on the landmark method instead of the top dead center method. Unfortunately, it is going to be up to you to do the work to resolve the new questions. I believe that what you will find is that the new distributor is correct, and you will be able to continue assembly.
When you get started again, you will need to remove the 4 spark plugs. You will need either a 19mm or 3/4" socket and a long-handled socket wrench. The engine is currently showing that it is almost to #2, which means, if it is actually almost to #2, it is only about a half turn of the crankshaft from top dead center of the #1 cylinder. The engine will roll fairly easy by hand (with a wrench) with the plugs out. You have said that the auxiliary fan has already been removed, so the bolt at the center of the balancer pulley should be easy to reach. As you turn the engine clockwise, air should start escaping from the #1 spark plug hole after about a quarter turn. If so, you will start watching for the mark to come in to view at the timing scale. I'll find a picture of the timing mark.

 

The timing mark is the dark spot (not the white) he is pointing at with the stick. It can be very difficult to see if it is full of dirt/grunge.

 

the fan is still there... and no I did not put that white spot on the balancer... that thing has been cranked so many times...
keeping in mind we moved the inner slot oil pump I think you said, counter clockwise a little bit.. idk if that makes a difference..

I think the photos I took originally or since won't matter as it has most recently been cranked to try to get what I thought was the timing mark close to 0..

tomorrow I will do tdc... the guy doing the mj was able to do it with the fan on in his diagnostic video.. I'm sure I can put things together to get to that. I found the drawer with all his extensions and probably longer ratchets.. he was a pro mechanic for many years so stuff is somewhere...

I was watching videos of symptoms of bad timing chain/belt and unless this was a thing that night then it hasn't had any symptoms of it at all from what I can tell. I don't listen to music in my jeep mostly because what appears to be an after market radio likely isn't hooked up to the antenna... I had no ticking/rattling and no real complaints on performance until that day..

 

I will clean it up tomorrow... I can get under it easy enough and and I will spray the rag directly. I can see the numbers ok on the balancer.. i'm sure pics will be easier in full daylight.