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bad noise coming from oil pan

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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 12:28 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Not on a 4.0.
Are the ports through the head not wide enough to allow the lifter to come all the way out?
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 12:34 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Don't mix up the caps! Mark them well if you need. Idk what marks they have, but, that's very important they go back the same way!
Also if you do remove the lifters you want to make sure you keep the rockers and push rods in order.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 01:37 AM
  #18  
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I have a 1996 4.0 cherokee. So i looked at trans bolts and all 4the converter bolts were loose bad so i lock tighted them. Im not sure if there is play on the rods yes there is side to side play but up and doen if any min.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 02:18 AM
  #19  
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Amen! I just re read and listened to the vid, and was gonna ask if you checked those bolts. Do let us know how it goes.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 02:20 AM
  #20  
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It's late...since you are there you might google "plastigauge"
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 02:26 AM
  #21  
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glad you got it fixed, what do the bearings look like? they probably look really good if you are holding 40 psi at hot idle. i honestly wouldnt replace them if they arent worn much.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 05:00 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by cmartin2112
Are the ports through the head not wide enough to allow the lifter to come all the way out?
I think he's referring to the fact that the 4.0 is an inline motor. V motors have valley pans that can be removed to gain access to the push rods and lifters. Inline motors don't have that option.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 08:09 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by cmartin2112
Are the ports through the head not wide enough to allow the lifter to come all the way out?
Yes. They're too small. The 4 cylinder Jeep motor has holes large enough to pull the lifters out without removing the head though.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 08:10 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ssmokeyy
I have a 1996 4.0 cherokee. So i looked at trans bolts and all 4the converter bolts were loose bad so i lock tighted them. Im not sure if there is play on the rods yes there is side to side play but up and doen if any min.
So basically the oil pan was pulled when the most likely culprit was the flexplate to torque converter bolts all along?


Flintstone suggested that in one of the first 5 posts............
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 02:48 PM
  #25  
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The new noise was the bolts yes. but there is either a frozen lifter or bearing problem the disel sound isn't normal for a gas motor. tick tick tick tick tick thats in the video the hole time is the second noise. Im thinking im jsut going to leave that noise for now. I have a lot to fix on the jeep the motor mount is broke in half. i need to drop the trans 2" since i have a 3" lift and driver wheel bearing bad and pass upper and lower ball joints have a **** ton of play. soo im going to fix all that and put on some carbon brake pads and turn the rotors get aligment done and see how she is. I also still have voltage problem. i think its the fan motor for the heater is bad. no clue how it can make the voltage drop out but it only dose it with the fan motor on for the heater. so i got a lot of work left on the jeep not trying to make more than i need.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 03:32 PM
  #26  
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if you have good oil pressure which you do, its not in the bearings. its more then likely the lifters.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 08:49 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Hamster

I think he's referring to the fact that the 4.0 is an inline motor. V motors have valley pans that can be removed to gain access to the push rods and lifters. Inline motors don't have that option.
Your right, I know on v style motors you can pull the intake manifold off and you have access. But on my motor (89 I6 renix) I can pull the rockers and push rods from the top of the head. I didn't realize that the ports through the head were not large enough to allow the lifter to come all the way out.

I'm glad crusier jumped in and corrected me.
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 12:49 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ssmokeyy
I also still have voltage problem. i think its the fan motor for the heater is bad. no clue how it can make the voltage drop out
I once had a Tempo fan give me fits. It took me a while to figure out that although it seemed to work just fine, it was drawing a nutty amount of current. Screwing around, after it blew a 40, or 50 amp fuse I finally figured it out!

Well, button it back if you must. Rod inserts are like $20 on Rock auto, and it's a coin toss whather it will be one of them, or a piston that goes first.
But hey, you have good pressure, and there's always a chance something could go wrong. Wach that torque plate for cracks, and good luck.

International 304? (same block as 345?), also you can extract lifters through the head. Neat tool that grabs in the inside groove in the lifter for that. Must be called a "lifter extractor"
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 01:07 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Hamster
Inline motors don't have that option.
They usta back when they put side covers on the inline motors, but only the fogeys would remember that. er....whoops.
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 04:45 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Radi
They usta back when they put side covers on the inline motors, but only the fogeys would remember that. er....whoops.
Yeah uhm...........I think that was back before I even knew what a wrench was.....lol.............JK
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