Bad day.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 339
Likes: 4
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yeah will get it checked.. or I can even try jumping it with another car..
What about the GEN light thats coming along with the check engine light?
I also checked the voltage at the TPS, it was low.. should be around 5.00 volts, right?
What about the GEN light thats coming along with the check engine light?
I also checked the voltage at the TPS, it was low.. should be around 5.00 volts, right?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 339
Likes: 4
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Have got the battery checked, its fine, alternator was messing up so decided to get it re-built. Can the alternator do weird things like that? When I crank, there is no current at the injectors.. or the ignition coil.
How do we check the camshaft position sensor? I have it out right now..
The alternator is being worked on, my question is, can the alternator be the cause of the problems like no current when cranking at the injectors or the ignition coil? And for how long should the fuel pump prime when the ignition is switched on, it doesn't even run for like 3 seconds. 2 seconds at max and it shuts off same for the +ve at injectors. How to check the fuel pressure with out a gauge, just to get an idea if that department is fine or not?
How do we check the camshaft position sensor? I have it out right now..
The alternator is being worked on, my question is, can the alternator be the cause of the problems like no current when cranking at the injectors or the ignition coil? And for how long should the fuel pump prime when the ignition is switched on, it doesn't even run for like 3 seconds. 2 seconds at max and it shuts off same for the +ve at injectors. How to check the fuel pressure with out a gauge, just to get an idea if that department is fine or not?
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 11
From: Chico,ca
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You can check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail,just pull the cap and see if there is pressure,if you can get a guage it should be around 30-35psi. The pump will only come on for about 2-3 seconds,enought to charge the rail. The fact you can here it is good
As far as the cps goes you check it on b and c terminals,should read open.
As far as the cps goes you check it on b and c terminals,should read open.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 339
Likes: 4
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
pump is fine.. there is pressure at fuel rail, the thing is that there is something wrong that is engaging the ASD relay. How do we check the Camshaft positioning sensor.
Checked the CKP sensor, and the meter is showing OPEN resistance.. (infinite resistance)...
Checked the CKP sensor, and the meter is showing OPEN resistance.. (infinite resistance)...
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 11
From: Chico,ca
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 339
Likes: 4
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Okay, i checked the CAMSHAFT position sensor as per it was suggested in the manual, and it failed..
Had grounded using the body ground.. now, and when i connected the +ve lead to the center terminal of the connector, I could read 5.0v, so then I cranked, it stayed at 5.0 volts.. no deflection at all.. Should I order this sensor or not? And also have I done the test the correct way, I mean, I grounded the -ve lead to the body / the direct ground coming from the battery.. and the lowest scale on my analog voltmeter was DC 10v..
Had grounded using the body ground.. now, and when i connected the +ve lead to the center terminal of the connector, I could read 5.0v, so then I cranked, it stayed at 5.0 volts.. no deflection at all.. Should I order this sensor or not? And also have I done the test the correct way, I mean, I grounded the -ve lead to the body / the direct ground coming from the battery.. and the lowest scale on my analog voltmeter was DC 10v..
For this test, an analog (non-digital) voltmeter
is needed. Do not remove the distributor connector
from the distributor. Using small paper clips,
insert them into the backside of the distributor wire
harness connector to make contact with the terminals.
Be sure that the connector is not damaged
when inserting the paper clips. Attach voltmeter
leads to these paper clips.
(1) Connect the positive (+) voltmeter lead into the
sensor output wire. This is at done the distributor
wire harness connector. For wire identification, refer
to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(2) Connect the negative (-) voltmeter lead into the
ground wire. For wire identification, refer to Group
8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(3) Set the voltmeter to the 15 Volt DC scale.
(4) Remove distributor cap from distributor (two
screws). Rotate (crank) the engine until the distributor
rotor is approximately in the 11 o’clock position.
The movable pulse ring should now be within the
sensor pickup.
(5) Turn ignition key to ON position. Voltmeter
should read approximately 5.0 volts.
(6) If voltage is not present, check the voltmeter
leads for a good connection.
(7) If voltage is still not present, check for voltage
at the supply wire. For wire identification, refer to
Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(8) If 5 volts is not present at supply wire, check
for voltage at PCM 32-way connector (cavity A-17).
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring for location of connector/
terminal. Leave the PCM connector connected for
this test.
(9) If voltage is still not present, perform vehicle
test using the DRB scan tool.
(10) If voltage is present at cavity A-17, but not at
the supply wire:
(a) Check continuity between the supply wire.
This is checked between the distributor connector
and cavity A-17 at the PCM. If continuity is not
present, repair the harness as necessary.
(b) Check for continuity between the camshaft
position sensor output wire and cavity A-18 at the
PCM. If continuity is not present, repair the harness
as necessary.
(c) Check for continuity between the ground circuit
wire at the distributor connector and ground.
If continuity is not present, repair the harness as
necessary.
(11) While observing the voltmeter, crank the
engine with ignition switch. The voltmeter needle
should fluctuate between 0 and 5 volts while the
engine is cranking. This verifies that the camshaft
position sensor in the distributor is operating properly
and a sync pulse signal is being generated.
If sync pulse signal is not present, replacement of
the camshaft position sensor is necessary
is needed. Do not remove the distributor connector
from the distributor. Using small paper clips,
insert them into the backside of the distributor wire
harness connector to make contact with the terminals.
Be sure that the connector is not damaged
when inserting the paper clips. Attach voltmeter
leads to these paper clips.
(1) Connect the positive (+) voltmeter lead into the
sensor output wire. This is at done the distributor
wire harness connector. For wire identification, refer
to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(2) Connect the negative (-) voltmeter lead into the
ground wire. For wire identification, refer to Group
8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(3) Set the voltmeter to the 15 Volt DC scale.
(4) Remove distributor cap from distributor (two
screws). Rotate (crank) the engine until the distributor
rotor is approximately in the 11 o’clock position.
The movable pulse ring should now be within the
sensor pickup.
(5) Turn ignition key to ON position. Voltmeter
should read approximately 5.0 volts.
(6) If voltage is not present, check the voltmeter
leads for a good connection.
(7) If voltage is still not present, check for voltage
at the supply wire. For wire identification, refer to
Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(8) If 5 volts is not present at supply wire, check
for voltage at PCM 32-way connector (cavity A-17).
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring for location of connector/
terminal. Leave the PCM connector connected for
this test.
(9) If voltage is still not present, perform vehicle
test using the DRB scan tool.
(10) If voltage is present at cavity A-17, but not at
the supply wire:
(a) Check continuity between the supply wire.
This is checked between the distributor connector
and cavity A-17 at the PCM. If continuity is not
present, repair the harness as necessary.
(b) Check for continuity between the camshaft
position sensor output wire and cavity A-18 at the
PCM. If continuity is not present, repair the harness
as necessary.
(c) Check for continuity between the ground circuit
wire at the distributor connector and ground.
If continuity is not present, repair the harness as
necessary.
(11) While observing the voltmeter, crank the
engine with ignition switch. The voltmeter needle
should fluctuate between 0 and 5 volts while the
engine is cranking. This verifies that the camshaft
position sensor in the distributor is operating properly
and a sync pulse signal is being generated.
If sync pulse signal is not present, replacement of
the camshaft position sensor is necessary
Last edited by syncview; Aug 3, 2009 at 01:37 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 11
From: Chico,ca
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
it is impossible for anyone to say,but the procedure is the correct one and if you have followed the procedure then it is very possible the sensor is bad. It sounds like you are confident you have followed it right.
we have two junk yards close to my home and when I am not sure I get what I need and check it,if it is a big deal I will buy a new one and keep the other as a spare,I do this because of the cost of some of these items. I can buy this same sensor for $15,but for some folks used means bad.
we have two junk yards close to my home and when I am not sure I get what I need and check it,if it is a big deal I will buy a new one and keep the other as a spare,I do this because of the cost of some of these items. I can buy this same sensor for $15,but for some folks used means bad.
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