Well after getting the draw fixed, putting a new fuel pump in and having g to fix the damn pins on the harness to get it to work and run im back to having problems.
so the H3 to H4 harness kit was installed with a new headlight switch and i lost high beams and half my dash lights when I put new LED bulbs in the instrument cluster due to the factory ones being burnt out. Still can't get that back to working.

I removed the overhead console due to all the wires being chewed up and it fixed my draw. I recovered and replaced the headliner and also put insulation in the ceiling as well. Put it together and made sure no wires were pinched or damaged. So now my dash is completely dead. I give up. I also.put aftermarket LED headlights in when I did the switch and harness. I'm at the point idk whatelse to do. I need some help

 

Yes, back to square 1. I assume you have minimal electrical knowledge, but you may have plenty

Step 1. Free download the FSM from this forum (if you havent already)

Identify relevant fuses and trace 12v using a test light

Pay extra attention that you re-attached all ground wires. The FSM has ground locations.

Electrical problems can be extremely frustrating and must be attacked systematically, problems eliminated one by one

report back to us

 

Yeah I've got more knowledge than most but not an expert at all. Ive been through using my ohm meter on every dang wire on this thing. Initially it all started with a bad headlight switch. Replaced that and it went down hill. Replaced it a second time and still having issues. I had a draw of 3.72 initially when I first got it. Traced out everything. Put the H3-H4 wiring harness on it, which is a straight forward 2 grounds 1 hot wire with a fusible link and ground and aftermarket LED headlights. Checked all that out no draw no shorts fuses all good. Found my overhead console was destroyed by mice. This thing sat for a while when the previous owner had it. The draw dropped drastically when I disconnected the console. Traced it back to the Polk audio speakers in the soundboard in the rear having another draw and then the kick panel floorboard lights also being my other issue. Once it was all disconnected everything zeroed out. Traced out all the wires and grounds and could take find anything. But my fuel pump went out during this. Replaced it and found that 3 pins in the new fuel pump were not secured in the harness good and fixed that. Replaced the headliner and it immediatly killed the dash. The passenger side Visor wire for the light is somewhere back in the Roof/pillar area and will have to be fished out. But it was fine when I first pulled the headliner. My wife was helping me so im not sure if she pushed it back in there or when I was reattached the wires to the proper areas it got pulled down. But the dash cluster has never lit up all the way even with new LEDs in it. I may go try to get a nww cluster in hopes that maybe that's the issue. I doubt that other wire for the Visor would kill my dash but idk weirder things have happened. I've cleaned and replace all the grounds when I first got the jeep but I'm still having hell.

 

The circuit diagram & a test light.

You are looking for 12V.

If it should be on a certain wire color,

If it isnt, you search back until your light glows.

I dont really know what else to say

 

That's what I have been doing..... I keep saying that. I'm probably going to have to pull the entire harness and inspect the entire thing for bare or chewed or broken wires at this point

 

Please, I really would not do that

It sounds like you have good auto electrical knowledge

If so, I would tackle it in a completely systematic manner (which I am sure you have, but I cannot understand exactly what you have done from your initial post)

I am going to assume you have

in roughly this order

*measured parasitic draw to be absolutely below 20mA ?

* tested every single fuse

* I dont know what sort of roof lighting you have, console, basic?..disconnect the harness in any case

* removed as much of the LED stuff as you can, and replace it with the original incandescent globes which you kept (sorry)

In addition to that, you do not say whether you have studied the circuit diagram, and related diagnostic from the FSM

I can only presume you have, as I cannot really fix anything without doing that

 

It is generally not the best idea to "upgrade to LEDs" while you are sorting out electrical issues. Sort out the problems first then "upgrade".

I am dubious of the benefit of LEDs in dash lighting.

LEDs are polarity sensitive while incandescents don't care.

Since you have found mouse damage to the wiring, all of the wiring is suspect until ruled out. Mouse urine is very corrosive and even small amounts on electrical connections can cause problems. I had to clean a major bulkhead connector on my motorhome because of mouse ****. Cleaning it solved the problem.

You may have to back probe on both ends of connectors to find a break in continuity. That way you can trace voltage from one end to the other. Use the wiring diagrams from the FSM as your guide. I'll admit that the FSM wiring diagrams aren't the best, but they will help.

I find it easier and faster to trace voltage than check resitive continuity (ohming out wires). You know what you are looking for (12v), and on which wire. You just need to trace from the source to the load and find the break. (Use a convenient known good, chassis ground refernce on you negative VOM lead.

If you have 12v at the load then you probably have a grounding issue. It van be traced similarly through the ground connectors, except you use a 12v source reference to your positive VOM lead in order to find the break in the grounding system.

 

That is a good post

Its essential to check every single underdash fuse, the FSM is often not correct. Use a mirror, and TEST LIGHT, touch each end of all fuses, and the engine bay ones, takes 15min

Good chance at least one is blown. There is no other way

LED dash lights are actually a downgrade, as they offer little or no benefit, and just installing them can cause problems ( I always use LED for all door activated lights)

Any suspect wire should pe piggybacked

 

So the issue has been resolved. But I didn't even think about making sure the mouse **** is washed off all the harnesses. The culprit appears to have been the H3-H4 wiring harness I bought. It was the Kaslight harness from Amazon. I always read the reviews and watch how many ppl purchase whatever I'm looking at and how it's rated. Well this time Amazon had a lot of what seem now to be false reviews. I googled the company and the reviews were not good. A lot.of people had the headlight connectors melt, harnesses catch on fire, bad relays in new un-installed kits and so on. The LED headlights are just as bright with or without it. Ive watched DEXJ's channel where he tests several brands and others that say it's not necessary to install anything to run most brands of LEDs. We will see how that holds up tho.