I have a 00' stock gearing D35. I'd like a D44 but will settle for an 8.25. Now my question is, what is the chance of getting lucky and grabing a rear end with the same gearing as the existing axels I have? I would like to avoid regearing if possible because thats a lot of $$$ I dont have. And I hear it is a major PIA.
So basiclly would it be hard to find one that would match my stock gearing? Or should I just abandon hope for now till I know I have all the money to regear? Orrr even grab the front axle too to avoid regearing????? Thanks for all input in advance and please be nice, I'm not to knowledgeable about axles.
So basiclly would it be hard to find one that would match my stock gearing? Or should I just abandon hope for now till I know I have all the money to regear? Orrr even grab the front axle too to avoid regearing????? Thanks for all input in advance and please be nice, I'm not to knowledgeable about axles.
Seasoned Member
Is your cherokee an automatic or manual?
Recently I swapped my rear d35 for the 8.25 with stock 3.55 gearing and grabbed a front stock d30 from an auto cherokee(also stock 3.55 gearing.) It's my understanding that most stock d30 front axles from an auto cherokee is 3.55, so if that's the case and you have an automatic, you should be fine. But someone can chime in if I'm incorrect.
Recently I swapped my rear d35 for the 8.25 with stock 3.55 gearing and grabbed a front stock d30 from an auto cherokee(also stock 3.55 gearing.) It's my understanding that most stock d30 front axles from an auto cherokee is 3.55, so if that's the case and you have an automatic, you should be fine. But someone can chime in if I'm incorrect.
What is your current gear ratio now?
If you really want to upgrade an 8.25 is only slightly stronger than a D35, a D44 or an 8.8 are the better choice.
If you really want to upgrade an 8.25 is only slightly stronger than a D35, a D44 or an 8.8 are the better choice.
Im not sure of my gearing right now, it is an automatic. What would be the easiest way to find out without yanking off the diff covers?
CF Veteran
Quote:
If you really want to upgrade an 8.25 is only slightly stronger than a D35, a D44 or an 8.8 are the better choice.
The 29 spline 8.25s are one step below a d44 in strength. Originally Posted by BLKXJ 96
What is your current gear ratio now? If you really want to upgrade an 8.25 is only slightly stronger than a D35, a D44 or an 8.8 are the better choice.
KTM, you have the 29 spline 8.25 so I think you would be fine with the tires you have now.
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superj
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- Join DateFeb 2010
- Locationcorpus christi, texas
- Posts:2,004
- Year1999
- ModelCherokee (XJ)
- Engine4.0 I6
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Liked:40 Times in 35 Posts
i think
that as long as you don't have the tow package then you have 3.55 gears. if you have the tow package then you have the 3.73 gears.
look at the tag on the dif cover to find out for sure.
that as long as you don't have the tow package then you have 3.55 gears. if you have the tow package then you have the 3.73 gears.look at the tag on the dif cover to find out for sure.
Registered Users
there is only a slight differance in axle shaft size between a 8.25 and d44 c-clips are the real differance,like blkxj96 said not much strenght differance, they both can safely run 33 in tires anything a d44 can do a 8.25 can to dont let em fool ya.
CF Veteran
Quote:
Just to addOriginally Posted by rich
there is only a slight differance in axle shaft size between a 8.25 and d44 c-clips are the real differance,like blkxj96 said not much strenght differance, they both can safely run 33 in tires anything a d44 can do a 8.25 can to dont let em fool ya.
29 spl. 8.25 = 29 spline shafts (obviously lol)
d44 = 30 spline shafts
I read the tag and it said "3 55 " so it would be safe to assume i have a D 35 with 3.55 gearing right? I'm confused by this because when doin initial research on my jeep from the VIN # my grandfather said it was suppossed to have the tow package. Is there any way to confirm or deny his statement?
Thanks guys! Yall have been a great help so far! Keep it coming!
Thanks guys! Yall have been a great help so far! Keep it coming!
CF Veteran
Yeah you want 3.55. For the 8.25 you want it from a 97 or later Automatic, 99% of those will be 3.55. You do need to verify, because sometimes people ordered 3.73 gear with the tow package, mostly not. D44 were only available in a couple years from the 80s, same deal auto tranny, if has tow verify not 3.73 or 4.10.. Ratio is stamped into the ring gear if the tags are missing. You want to pull the cover and do a visual inspection before you pull the axle. If you do run across a rig with 3.73 or 4.10 get BOTH axels and swap both of yours out.
CF Veteran
You will aslo need the Rear drive shaft from the rig you get the axle from. Unless your are planning a SYE at the same time, in which case you'd want the front shaft.
Senior Member
on my 97 i swaped from a d35 to a d44 an i used same drive shaft,i got lucky an only paid 150 for a d30 an a d44
CF Veteran
You should just go to the crystler site & contact the via email & request a build sheet! They will need the vin, name of the owner & city/state you bought it in! I did that & they got back to me in about a week with a lot of info I didn't know about my XJ...
Quote:
Not trying to seem naggy but why? I mean if it simply wont line up thats fine. I'm just curious as to the reasoning behind it, thats all.Originally Posted by 93gc40
You will aslo need the Rear drive shaft from the rig you get the axle from. Unless your are planning a SYE at the same time, in which case you'd want the front shaft.
Quote:
Sounds like i have some file digging to do...Originally Posted by builtnotbought89'
You should just go to the crystler site & contact the via email & request a build sheet! They will need the vin, name of the owner & city/state you bought it in! I did that & they got back to me in about a week with a lot of info I didn't know about my XJ...
And once again thanks for all the help guys!
How much would it cost to do a axel "rebuild" and what would that entail?
Just wondering incase i grab a high mileage axel.
Senior Member
if u go from a 35 to a 44 all u will need is new u bolts an maybe brake lines... U WILL NOT NEED A NEW DRIVE SHAFT i just did the swap
