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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 12:12 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Roler
How about my post #21...
Thanks for your assistance Right Hand Drive.

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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 12:15 PM
  #32  
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lol...Charming CC....Now, we're not getting unfriendly, are we?

Last edited by Roler; Feb 2, 2014 at 12:36 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 03:18 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Roler
lol...Charming CC....Now, we're not getting unfriendly, are we?
I'm never unfriendly. Take Bimmer for instance; I was friendly with him right up until he ran to the end of his rope.

PS: Check to see how much rope you have left...

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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 03:40 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
When you tested the NSS, you did follow the instructions didn't you? That is, key to RUN, and shift to the respective gear then check for voltage at its connector pin cav.

Fuse #10 is only powered with the ignition switch to RUN.

~~~~~~~~~~~

Turn the ignition to RUN, without cranking the engine.

Test the NSS contacts:

Use a Voltmeter.

Shift the trans to 1-2.

Read between pin cavity 21 and pin cav 24, you should see battery voltage.

Repeat voltage tests at pin cav 9 in shift select 3, pin cav 22 in shift select D, and pin cav 18 in shift select R.
I did check the voltage with the key on, engine off and in each gear selector.

I pulled the NSS off the transmission and opened it up. It was funky to say the least. One of my rotating arm contacts was stuck in. I cleaned it up really well, used emory cloth on the contacts, and applied a new small amount of dielectric grease in the NSS. Now my backup lights work perfectly. I assume that will fix that issue completely.

I also stopped at the parts store and pulled the codes again. I got P1698 (No CCD Message from TCM), P0700 (Transmission Control System MIL Request), P0758 (Shift Solenoid B Electrical), and P0705 (Transmission Range Sensor Circuit PRNDL Input). I cleared the codes and they came back on my way to the shop (before I cleaned the NSS). I didn't have a chance to stop and clear/recheck the codes when I left my shop as the wife was in a hurry to get to the grocery. I assume cleaning the NSS fixed the P0705 code.

I ordered the shift solenoids from O'Reilly. They had a kit that has both A & B solenoids in it. They will be here on Wednesday. I'm going to drop the pan and change them out then. Hopefully that fixes my shifting issue.



Originally Posted by CCKen
Thanks for your assistance Right Hand Drive.

Now that's funny right there.

Last edited by mjonesjr; Feb 2, 2014 at 03:42 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 04:02 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mjonesjr
I did check the voltage with the key on, engine off and in each gear selector.

I pulled the NSS off the transmission and opened it up. It was funky to say the least. One of my rotating arm contacts was stuck in. I cleaned it up really well, used emory cloth on the contacts, and applied a new small amount of dielectric grease in the NSS. Now my backup lights work perfectly. I assume that will fix that issue completely.

I also stopped at the parts store and pulled the codes again. I got P1698 (No CCD Message from TCM), P0700 (Transmission Control System MIL Request), P0758 (Shift Solenoid B Electrical), and P0705 (Transmission Range Sensor Circuit PRNDL Input). I cleared the codes and they came back on my way to the shop (before I cleaned the NSS). I didn't have a chance to stop and clear/recheck the codes when I left my shop as the wife was in a hurry to get to the grocery. I assume cleaning the NSS fixed the P0705 code.

I ordered the shift solenoids from O'Reilly. They had a kit that has both A & B solenoids in it. They will be here on Wednesday. I'm going to drop the pan and change them out then. Hopefully that fixes my shifting issue.




Now that's funny right there.
Good work. The solenoids should do the job. But check the resistance on solenoid B at the solenoid before replacing it to make sure its the solenoid at fault and not the circuit wiring.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 04:03 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Good work. The solenoids should do the job. But check the resistance on solenoid B at the solenoid before replacing it to make sure its the solenoid at fault and not the circuit wiring.
I will. I'd hate to spend the $165 on the solenoids and not need them because it is a wiring problem.

I will follow up on Wednesday when I get the pan off.

Thanks for the help.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 05:09 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
I'm never unfriendly. Take Bimmer for instance; I was friendly with him right up until he ran to the end of his rope.

PS: Check to see how much rope you have left...

Aaah, good mate. For a split second I thought I might have grieved you with my post in the style of, let's say, your kinda flavor...
And that would be a shame, because I like you. Don't know why, but I do, lol.

Oh,and that rope: mate no worries, I practically máke the rope...it takes a little bit more than a tickle to get me to the end of it
Comes with my daily (and nightly) job, to deal with all kinds of 'personalities'....but I guess the toilet lady can say the same
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 09:05 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by mjonesjr
I will. I'd hate to spend the $165 on the solenoids and not need them because it is a wiring problem.

I will follow up on Wednesday when I get the pan off.

Thanks for the help.
So as not to leave any stone unturned, here's the FSM procedure for checking a solenoid:


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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 11:22 AM
  #39  
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Thanks. I'll have the pan off on Wednesday to check/replace the A & B solenoids. The kit I ordered comes with 2 so if 1 is bad I'll replace them both.
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 03:34 PM
  #40  
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go for it and let us know how it went
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 11:20 AM
  #41  
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Would the bad shift B solenoid cause the torque converter not to lock?

I drove the Jeep out of town today and got it up to speed and the torque converter never locked. Any idea what would cause this?
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 11:27 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by mjonesjr
Would the bad shift B solenoid cause the torque converter not to lock?

I drove the Jeep out of town today and got it up to speed and the torque converter never locked. Any idea what would cause this?
Solenoid C is the TC lock-up solenoid.

TCM connector pin cav 11.

Did you replace the other two solenoids?
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 11:28 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Solenoid C is the TC lock-up solenoid.

TCM connector pin cav 11.

Did you replace the other two solenoids?
I have not replaced the other 2 solenoids yet. I'm waiting on all 3 of them to get here.

I was just curious if the bad shift B solenoid would cause the torque converter to not lock.
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 12:10 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by mjonesjr
I have not replaced the other 2 solenoids yet. I'm waiting on all 3 of them to get here.

I was just curious if the bad shift B solenoid would cause the torque converter to not lock.
There are occasions where the switch contacts in the brake lamp switch (for the TCM) are defective and prevent TC lock-up.

You can check the switch contacts from the TCM connector. Refer to previous pinout of the connector and diagram below.

Using an Ohmmeter, probe pin cav 23 on the TCM connector (+) and (-) to a good chassis ground (instrument panel).

You should see continuity (5 Ohm max), depress the brake pedal, and now you should see a clean Open in the circuit, release the brake pedal and the circuit should return to continuity.

If this doesn't happen, replace the brake lamp switch.

Switch circuit:

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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 02:24 PM
  #45  
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I tested the brake switch to the TCM plug and didn't get the results that it should have gotten. I replaced the switch and still the torque converter will not lock.

I drove to town to have the codes read and cleared. I got a Shift Solenoid B code like before. I cleared the codes and left. As I was driving down the road, it locked for about 30 feet then it unlocked and set a CEL for the "Shift Solenoid B". Now the only time I can get it to lock is if I stop, put the transmission in P, turn the Jeep off, start the Jeep, shift up through the gears to D. Then it will lock again for about 30-40 feet and unlock.
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