P0700 is a PCM code reporting that a transmission code has been stored by the TCM

If your code reader can see "Pending Codes" take a look at them.

 

That's the issue. My reader nor any of the local auto parts store readers can see pending codes.

I will note that this morning driving in to work that the transmission shifted perfectly normal in D, even when warmed up. The only thing I did last night was unplug the TCM, drive around the block, and plug it back in.

 

If you can clear the P0700 code, clear it and see if it returns.

It may only be a scanner can see pending codes but it seems strange that a parts store wouldn't have a device that can see pending codes....

Do you still have a problem with reverse lights or starting in P?

 

I will try to clear it when I get home in the morning.

There is 1 parts store that I've not tried yet. I'll swing by there on my way home from work in the morning.

I haven't had the problem starting in P since I first got it and got the fluid put back in it 2 days ago.

 

When I ohm out the wires this is what I get:

Wire 12: 12.8 ohm
Wire 13: 230 Kohm
Wire 11: 12.7 ohm

How hard is it to change out a solenoid?

I don't get any voltage from the NSS. I've adjusted the NSS within its range and couldn't get the backup lights to power on when the shifter was in reverse. I'm debating on ordering a new one and replacing it.

 

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/a...no-56k-717206/

 

I saw that. Looks easy enough.

I found these solenoids on Amazon. Are both listings the same solenoids?




I'm going to pull the NSS off today and clean it to see if that helps. I sure hope so as I don't want to spend the money on one.

 

2-3 solenoid circuit (wire 13) doesn't look too good does it.

If you serch for it, there's several tutorials on how to change a solenoid. You want 2-3 solenoid "B". Before removing it, check its resistance to see if your previous reading has been confirmed.

Concerning no voltage at any pin cav from the NSS, check fuse 10 in the Junction Block fuse panel for being blown (see pic). It protects several circuits including the Transmission Range Sensor (NSS). Some of the other circuits are the Duty Cycle Evap Purge Solenoid, Radiator Fan Relay, and the AC Compressor Clutch Relay.

If the #10 fuse socket is empty, install a 15 amp mini fuse.

 

I just pulled the 15A fuse out and checked it. It was fine. I went ahead and replaced the bulbs again and they are still not working.

I haven't had any issues with it not starting in P, except for the first or second time I started it after I bought it.


Are these the correct solenoids for the AW4?

 

I've heard of people using A340 (Toyota) solenoids but I can't say for sure that's the way to go.

Here's one tutorial on replacing solenoids.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=987463

 

That is the one I have bookmarked. It looks very easy. I can do that without any issues.

Is this the correct solenoids for the AW4?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...glink121849-20

 

How about my post #21...

 

It is the exact same how-to only on different sites. All I had to do was look at the first post of each one and knew they were the same.

 

I know...this was a wink for CC

 

When you tested the NSS, you did follow the instructions didn't you? That is, key to RUN, and shift to the respective gear then check for voltage at its connector pin cav.

Fuse #10 is only powered with the ignition switch to RUN.

~~~~~~~~~~~

Turn the ignition to RUN, without cranking the engine.

Test the NSS contacts:

Use a Voltmeter.

Shift the trans to 1-2.

Read between pin cavity 21 and pin cav 24, you should see battery voltage.

Repeat voltage tests at pin cav 9 in shift select 3, pin cav 22 in shift select D, and pin cav 18 in shift select R.