Recently took out my headliner and overhead console because I am re doing my headliner. Now that I have the overhead console off I can see several wires running through it and a green electrical board. When I bought this jeep the previous owner gave me a remote for the keyless entry, but told me it didnt work. Is there anything I can look for underneath this overhead console that maybe I can fix to get this thing working. I have replaced the batteries in the remote with no luck.

 

It is certainly possible to diagnose and fix the circuit board or replace it with one from ebay, the junkyard, or the dealer (really expensive), though if you only have one remote there is a good chance it is bad (the remotes fail a lot more than the board itself).


Though in either case your best bet is probably just to replace the whole thing with an aftermarket unit like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/120956037606...84.m1423.l2649 = $15 (two remotes included)

It will be much cheaper, probably work just as well or better than the factory unit and will be a really easy install (since all the wiring is already there, it is just a matter of splicing the harness that comes with the aftermarket unit to the factory keyless entry harness). It would cost significantly more than that entire unit just to have one OE remote programed at the dealer (not including the cost of the remote).

 

Is the one that you linked good? Seems awful cheap but willing to give it a shot, will that one fit in the same spot that the key fob board is now?

 

Completely OT but whats a new headliner cost?

 

I didn't buy a complete new headliner just the foamed backed fabric and adhesive. Taking out the headliner was relatively easy just time consuming. The fabric ran me around 100 dollars for 10 yards but that is going to be for 2 jeeps. So only around 50 in fabric per jeep. Also bought the adhesive for 35 dollars. I used the write up on jeepforum.com called headliner reduex. I believe it is in the list of the most helpful writeups.

 

I got one to replace the POS IR keyless entry that came in my 95 (97+ at least had RF keyless entry).


It seems decent, it is ridiculously simple, just some relays and a basic RF receiver so it shouldn't cost much to make (I've seen ones that sell for $50+ and they are basically the same inside). I did replace the 2 electrolytic capacitors (470uf 16V and 470uf 25V)with 135C NCC (Nippon Chemicon) automotive grade caps, it came with 105C Chinese caps which should be sufficient, but I wanted to eliminate a potential source of failure (I have seen plenty of car electronics that only have 85C caps, so again this unit seems as good as ones selling for 4-5 times the price). Upgrading the caps is probably completely unnecessary, 135C caps are designed to handle under-hood temps, 105C should handle any interior temps (except maybe if you go to the desert in the middle of summer) but they only cost around $0.50 ea. and took me about 5min to change so I figured why not.


It is larger than the stock board (at least in my 95, not sure how big the 97+ board/module is) but it fit up under the headliner just fine. The plastic case adds a bit of bulk but protects the board from damage, if you have a full console you may be able to make it work without the case, but I didn't have a console and had to just tuck it under the head-liner so I left the case on to prevent damage to the board. I've also seen some smaller ones if you don't mind spending more, these probably have more compact relays as that is what makes up most of the bulk.

 

Yeah I understand what your saying, it seems the key fob that comes from factory is junk and not many last. I ended up buying the one that was linked above. Only 15 dollars so not too much of loss if it's garbage.

 

Here is what mine looks like

 

i just picked one of these up to put in my 96. as simple as splicing the connector in? sounds easy enough.

 

I hope so, are you talking about the cheap ebay one?

 

If you're talking about the e-bay one yes, the instructions that come with it kinda suck though.


If the wiring in your 96 is the same as my 95 it will be as follows:


Red, Yellow, and Black-striped Yellow from keyless receiver to pink on vehicle harness (+12V)


Black on receiver to black on vehicle harness (-)


White on receiver to Purple-striped orange on vehicle harness (lock).


Black-striped white on receiver to Purple-striped pink on vehicle harness (un-lock).


The IR keyless entry on 96 and older XJs did not flash the lights on lock or unlock, if you want this function you will need to run the brown wires (will probably need to extend the wire) from the keyless unit to the turn-signal wires under the dash.


To the OP: wires on the 98 harness will be different but you should be able to find a wire-color/function chart with a quick web search.


On a side note: do not use trailer-splices/taps, I tried this but the wires are too thin to get good penetration/contact so it didn't work, after fighting with it for a while, I ended up just using butt-splices and it worked no problem (crimp-caps should work too, as would soldering, wire-nuts would work but I don't like to use them on vehicles due to their tendency to work loose with vibration).

 

Thanks I'll check that out.
Mines being help up by thumbtacks from previous owner.

 

Great help, will be referring to you when mine comes in. For 15 dollars is it a good deal? Or is it cheap?

 

I bought mine sagging from previous owner, not horrible but right above my head and got annoyed with it on my head, right now I'm in the process of taking apart the overhead console to get ready to recover it.

 

Is this the same as yours? Mines a 98, look familiar to your 95