ANOTHER Heat Doesn't Work Thread...
#1
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ANOTHER Heat Doesn't Work Thread...
1998 Jeep Cherokee SE 2 Door 2WD
This is my first "winter" with this Jeep, so could be reoccuring, could be a new problem.
Back Story:
Water pump was seeping, so I changed it.
Left my T-stat in, as the operating temps have been and still are fine
Backflushed the Heater Core (only one back flush, but got plenty of gunk out)
Changed lower radiator hose
Refilled coolant system with premixed 50/50
Recently the defrost wasn't working, at the same time, I noticed the temp while using heat and defrost wasn't very warm.
I diagnosed the defrost as 1) A loose belt was causing an inefficient compressor and 2) I am assuming low freon pressurse causing rapid cycling of the compressor.
I am ok with poor defrost performance, but the poor heater I'm not ok with.
I flushed and backflushed the heater core again, then blew it out with air.
Checked my blend door, cable is "loose/less than tight" at full cold and full hot, but the door actuator moves 90* as it should.
The input hose to the heater core gets hot, and the output is "less hot"
What is my next step?
This is my first "winter" with this Jeep, so could be reoccuring, could be a new problem.
Back Story:
Water pump was seeping, so I changed it.
Left my T-stat in, as the operating temps have been and still are fine
Backflushed the Heater Core (only one back flush, but got plenty of gunk out)
Changed lower radiator hose
Refilled coolant system with premixed 50/50
Recently the defrost wasn't working, at the same time, I noticed the temp while using heat and defrost wasn't very warm.
I diagnosed the defrost as 1) A loose belt was causing an inefficient compressor and 2) I am assuming low freon pressurse causing rapid cycling of the compressor.
I am ok with poor defrost performance, but the poor heater I'm not ok with.
I flushed and backflushed the heater core again, then blew it out with air.
Checked my blend door, cable is "loose/less than tight" at full cold and full hot, but the door actuator moves 90* as it should.
The input hose to the heater core gets hot, and the output is "less hot"
What is my next step?
#3
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#5
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#7
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Year: 1998 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
1998 Jeep Cherokee SE 2 Door 2WD
This is my first "winter" with this Jeep, so could be reoccuring, could be a new problem.
Back Story:
Water pump was seeping, so I changed it.
Left my T-stat in, as the operating temps have been and still are fine
Backflushed the Heater Core (only one back flush, but got plenty of gunk out)
Changed lower radiator hose
Refilled coolant system with premixed 50/50
Recently the defrost wasn't working, at the same time, I noticed the temp while using heat and defrost wasn't very warm.
I diagnosed the defrost as 1) A loose belt was causing an inefficient compressor and 2) I am assuming low freon pressurse causing rapid cycling of the compressor.
I am ok with poor defrost performance, but the poor heater I'm not ok with.
I flushed and backflushed the heater core again, then blew it out with air.
Checked my blend door, cable is "loose/less than tight" at full cold and full hot, but the door actuator moves 90* as it should.
The input hose to the heater core gets hot, and the output is "less hot"
What is my next step?
This is my first "winter" with this Jeep, so could be reoccuring, could be a new problem.
Back Story:
Water pump was seeping, so I changed it.
Left my T-stat in, as the operating temps have been and still are fine
Backflushed the Heater Core (only one back flush, but got plenty of gunk out)
Changed lower radiator hose
Refilled coolant system with premixed 50/50
Recently the defrost wasn't working, at the same time, I noticed the temp while using heat and defrost wasn't very warm.
I diagnosed the defrost as 1) A loose belt was causing an inefficient compressor and 2) I am assuming low freon pressurse causing rapid cycling of the compressor.
I am ok with poor defrost performance, but the poor heater I'm not ok with.
I flushed and backflushed the heater core again, then blew it out with air.
Checked my blend door, cable is "loose/less than tight" at full cold and full hot, but the door actuator moves 90* as it should.
The input hose to the heater core gets hot, and the output is "less hot"
What is my next step?
Last edited by RTorrez1; 12-11-2013 at 09:34 PM.
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#9
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This is telling you that you do not have proper flow either you still have some crud in the heater core you you t-stat isn't operating correctly. Just because you have flow doesn't mean that it is a proper flow. I would recheck it before throwing money into it and it doesn't fix the problem. putting a new radiator and everything else won't help if the heater core isn't replaced or at least cleaned properly. Just a suggestion.
I may try a flush kit with chemical additives this weekend or something... Last ditch effort type deal
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Year: 1990
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#13
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Year: 1998 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yup! On my 65 Chevy P/U I have no AC and when I do turn on the defroster the window will fog up more before it clears up and everything is nice and hot.