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ANOTHER Heat Doesn't Work Thread...

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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 11:22 AM
  #1  
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Default ANOTHER Heat Doesn't Work Thread...

1998 Jeep Cherokee SE 2 Door 2WD

This is my first "winter" with this Jeep, so could be reoccuring, could be a new problem.

Back Story:
Water pump was seeping, so I changed it.
Left my T-stat in, as the operating temps have been and still are fine
Backflushed the Heater Core (only one back flush, but got plenty of gunk out)
Changed lower radiator hose
Refilled coolant system with premixed 50/50

Recently the defrost wasn't working, at the same time, I noticed the temp while using heat and defrost wasn't very warm.

I diagnosed the defrost as 1) A loose belt was causing an inefficient compressor and 2) I am assuming low freon pressurse causing rapid cycling of the compressor.

I am ok with poor defrost performance, but the poor heater I'm not ok with.

I flushed and backflushed the heater core again, then blew it out with air.

Checked my blend door, cable is "loose/less than tight" at full cold and full hot, but the door actuator moves 90* as it should.

The input hose to the heater core gets hot, and the output is "less hot"

What is my next step?
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 03:58 PM
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Sounds like you need to flush the heater core more then just one time.
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RTorrez1
Sounds like you need to flush the heater core more then just one time.
I did. Says it in my time log up there.
The first time I only back flushed, the second time I back flushed then forward flushed then aired it.
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 04:32 PM
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"got plenty of gunk out"

When dealing with a poorly maintained cooling system total replacement is usually the cure, $150-200 one time & you are done.
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
"got plenty of gunk out" When dealing with a poorly maintained cooling system total replacement is usually the cure, $150-200 one time & you are done.
Thanks for the input, after narrowing it so much I came to the same conclusion.
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 09:11 PM
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Forgive my ignorance, but what does your A/C compressor have to do with defrost?
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by RunninKurt
1998 Jeep Cherokee SE 2 Door 2WD

This is my first "winter" with this Jeep, so could be reoccuring, could be a new problem.

Back Story:
Water pump was seeping, so I changed it.
Left my T-stat in, as the operating temps have been and still are fine
Backflushed the Heater Core (only one back flush, but got plenty of gunk out)
Changed lower radiator hose
Refilled coolant system with premixed 50/50

Recently the defrost wasn't working, at the same time, I noticed the temp while using heat and defrost wasn't very warm.

I diagnosed the defrost as 1) A loose belt was causing an inefficient compressor and 2) I am assuming low freon pressurse causing rapid cycling of the compressor.

I am ok with poor defrost performance, but the poor heater I'm not ok with.

I flushed and backflushed the heater core again, then blew it out with air.

Checked my blend door, cable is "loose/less than tight" at full cold and full hot, but the door actuator moves 90* as it should.

The input hose to the heater core gets hot, and the output is "less hot"

What is my next step?
Originally Posted by RunninKurt
I did. Says it in my time log up there.
The first time I only back flushed, the second time I back flushed then forward flushed then aired it.
This is telling you that you do not have proper flow either you still have some crud in the heater core you you t-stat isn't operating correctly. Just because you have flow doesn't mean that it is a proper flow. I would recheck it before throwing money into it and it doesn't fix the problem. putting a new radiator and everything else won't help if the heater core isn't replaced or at least cleaned properly. Just a suggestion.

Last edited by RTorrez1; Dec 11, 2013 at 09:34 PM.
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Volf
Forgive my ignorance, but what does your A/C compressor have to do with defrost?
Your AC compressor kicks on when you turn on the defroster. That is if you have AC.
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RTorrez1
This is telling you that you do not have proper flow either you still have some crud in the heater core you you t-stat isn't operating correctly. Just because you have flow doesn't mean that it is a proper flow. I would recheck it before throwing money into it and it doesn't fix the problem. putting a new radiator and everything else won't help if the heater core isn't replaced or at least cleaned properly. Just a suggestion.
I apologize for the misunderstanding.

I may try a flush kit with chemical additives this weekend or something... Last ditch effort type deal
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RTorrez1
Your AC compressor kicks on when you turn on the defroster. That is if you have AC.
Really? I didn't even think my compressor worked though I always use a (working) defrost. I wonder if I can actually charge my a/c now...
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RTorrez1
Your AC compressor kicks on when you turn on the defroster. That is if you have AC.
Ok. But why?
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Volf
Ok. But why?
To pull the humidity out of the incoming air before it goes over the heater core.
So your windshield doesn't fog up.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
To pull the humidity out of the incoming air before it goes over the heater core.
So your windshield doesn't fog up.
Yup! On my 65 Chevy P/U I have no AC and when I do turn on the defroster the window will fog up more before it clears up and everything is nice and hot.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
To pull the humidity out of the incoming air before it goes over the heater core.
So your windshield doesn't fog up.
Interesting



The more you know...
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Volf
Interesting



The more you know...
Some FYI stuff. From my Owner's Manual. Read "Window Fogging".

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