Alternator replacement
09-20-2014, 11:38 PM
#1
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L
Alternator replacement
Guys, I've got the alternator unbolted everywhere but the external regulator. I can't seem to get it undone because the bolts are almost rounded off. Now the new alternator I have comes with the new bolts for it, but I just need to get the old ones off. It's mechanic wired back to the bracket just to keep all the stress off the regulator right now, so I'm fine with it, I would just love some ideas to try and get the bolts out. I'm not sure I can get my set of vice grips in there without getting a new set from work (I'm a parts guy at O'Reilly's).
09-20-2014, 11:47 PM
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Year: 1994
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Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
Guys, I've got the alternator unbolted everywhere but the external regulator. I can't seem to get it undone because the bolts are almost rounded off. Now the new alternator I have comes with the new bolts for it, but I just need to get the old ones off. It's mechanic wired back to the bracket just to keep all the stress off the regulator right now, so I'm fine with it, I would just love some ideas to try and get the bolts out. I'm not sure I can get my set of vice grips in there without getting a new set from work (I'm a parts guy at O'Reilly's).
09-20-2014, 11:51 PM
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Well the thing is they're about 7mm or less, I don't think we sell a set that size. I'll have to check tomorrow for sure though!
09-21-2014, 12:11 AM
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Ok, separate question but still applicable to the topic at hand. I tested the alternator at the shop today with our handheld battery/starter/alternator tester. It read the regulator as bad. I thought that it was integrated with the alternator as many are. However I learned that it is in fact, within the PCM itself. Now, my new question is, would the bad regulator or the alternator itself cause my gauge to read at 9 volts while at idle but raise to about 10/11 volts while putting through town. The tester showed the alternator output at about 11.3 volts so it's bad (to my knowledge)...but do I need to replace the PCM as well?
09-21-2014, 12:13 AM
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Or could it be something as simple as a bad ground? I recently had the head replaced and my mechanic moved the ground from the valve cover to somewhere on the block itself.
09-21-2014, 07:56 AM
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Ok, separate question but still applicable to the topic at hand. I tested the alternator at the shop today with our handheld battery/starter/alternator tester. It read the regulator as bad. I thought that it was integrated with the alternator as many are. However I learned that it is in fact, within the PCM itself. Now, my new question is, would the bad regulator or the alternator itself cause my gauge to read at 9 volts while at idle but raise to about 10/11 volts while putting through town. The tester showed the alternator output at about 11.3 volts so it's bad (to my knowledge)...but do I need to replace the PCM as well?
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09-21-2014, 10:15 AM
#9
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Thanks for the help guys! I'm just waiting for my new one to come in, I got the upgraded 136 amp coming in on Monday.
09-24-2014, 12:32 AM
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Got the 136 mounted to the top of the bracket and back in the jeep. I wanted the extra room to swing it around if needed to properly align it. And after all the frustration and swear words, the case is bigger and won't bolt up...
****!
Then went and got a stock replacement and it runs like a top now...
****!
Then went and got a stock replacement and it runs like a top now...
09-24-2014, 11:08 AM
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Year: 1994
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Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
Got the 136 mounted to the top of the bracket and back in the jeep. I wanted the extra room to swing it around if needed to properly align it. And after all the frustration and swear words, the case is bigger and won't bolt up... ****! Then went and got a stock replacement and it runs like a top now...
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