Alingment techs
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
If camber is 1.0 degree out you bring it back 0.5 correct bringing top in also pushes bottom out ?
Last edited by freegdr; Sep 10, 2012 at 05:34 PM.
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From: Cloquet, MN
Year: 2000 Ltd.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 976
Likes: 5
From: Cloquet, MN
Year: 2000 Ltd.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
What?
I have no idea what you're trying to do, but if it's 1.0 degrees out you need to adjust 1.0 degrees. If you were talking linear measurements to either side of the rim then you would split the difference but when talking angles the center line of the wheel does not change.
I have no idea what you're trying to do, but if it's 1.0 degrees out you need to adjust 1.0 degrees. If you were talking linear measurements to either side of the rim then you would split the difference but when talking angles the center line of the wheel does not change.
if your camber is (-)1.0 you would bring it to (-) .5 by pushing the top out and the bottom in.
if your camber is +1.0 then you would bring it to +.5 by pushing the top in and the bottom out.
but that is assuming the actual point of adjustment is near the wheel centerline.
if it was a 911 for example, with the front camber adjustment located up high at the strut tower mount, correcting negative camber would bring the top out but the bottom would stay pretty much where its at.
Last edited by rompnXJ; Sep 10, 2012 at 06:32 PM.
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Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
a couple questions, are you starting with negative or positive camber; and how exactly are you going about changing it?
if your camber is (-)1.0 you would bring it to (-) .5 by pushing the top out and the bottom in.
if your camber is +1.0 then you would bring it to +.5 by pushing the top in and the bottom out.
but that is assuming the actual point of adjustment is near the wheel centerline.
if it was a 911 for example, with the front camber adjustment located up high at the strut tower mount, correcting negative camber would bring the top out but the bottom would stay pretty much where its at.
if your camber is (-)1.0 you would bring it to (-) .5 by pushing the top out and the bottom in.
if your camber is +1.0 then you would bring it to +.5 by pushing the top in and the bottom out.
but that is assuming the actual point of adjustment is near the wheel centerline.
if it was a 911 for example, with the front camber adjustment located up high at the strut tower mount, correcting negative camber would bring the top out but the bottom would stay pretty much where its at.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
im not sure if you're measuring on a rack or with an angle gauge, but if you put it on a rack you'll see that very rarely does a manufacturer ever specify a dead flat 0.0 degrees of camber, it's usually set around -.3 or -.5 because a small amount of negative camber promotes more predictable handling. i hope that helps
Last edited by rompnXJ; Sep 10, 2012 at 07:04 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
well lets say right now, your left front wheel has -1.0 degrees of camber. the top of the wheel is closer to the body and the bottom of the wheel is farther from the body. if you wanted to bring that to 0, you would have to move the entire 1 degree. you would do that by bringing the top of the wheel farther away and the bottom closer.
im not sure if you're measuring on a rack or with an angle gauge, but if you put it on a rack you'll see that very rarely does a manufacturer ever specify a dead flat 0.0 degrees of camber, it's usually set around -.3 or -.5 because a small amount of negative camber promotes more predictable handling. i hope that helps
im not sure if you're measuring on a rack or with an angle gauge, but if you put it on a rack you'll see that very rarely does a manufacturer ever specify a dead flat 0.0 degrees of camber, it's usually set around -.3 or -.5 because a small amount of negative camber promotes more predictable handling. i hope that helps
well yes, but the only way that the manufacturer sets the camber from the factory is by making sure the axle they installed isnt bent lol
i cant think of anyway to adjust camber on a solid axle that doesnt involve a torch and a BFH haha. maybe some sort of aftermarket adjustable balljoint setup ?? how are you adjusting it
i cant think of anyway to adjust camber on a solid axle that doesnt involve a torch and a BFH haha. maybe some sort of aftermarket adjustable balljoint setup ?? how are you adjusting it
Last edited by rompnXJ; Sep 10, 2012 at 07:19 PM.
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
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I once put two screws in a wooden level, 14 inches apart. (to contact the K car rim), one out 5/16 inch from the other, to set the 5/16 inch negative camber. (top in).
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