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-   -   Alingment techs (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/alingment-techs-148354/)

freegdr 09-10-2012 04:26 PM

Alingment techs
 
If camber is 1.0 degree out you bring it back 0.5 correct bringing top in also pushes bottom out ?

car5car 09-10-2012 05:32 PM

Is that a question or statement?
Sorry, I didn't understand.

Northwoods Snowman 09-10-2012 05:34 PM


Originally Posted by car5car (Post 2011822)
Is that a question or statement?
Sorry, I didn't understand.

X2

Either way though, unless you've put aftermarket ball joints that are off center, there is NO adjustment for camber on XJ's. All you can do is adjust caster and toe.

freegdr 09-10-2012 05:35 PM


Originally Posted by car5car (Post 2011822)
Is that a question or statement?
Sorry, I didn't understand.

Its a question....

freegdr 09-10-2012 05:38 PM


Originally Posted by Northwoods Snowman (Post 2011828)
X2

Either way though, unless you've put aftermarket ball joints that are off center, there is NO adjustment for camber on XJ's. All you can do is adjust caster and toe.

Not thru the axle no

Northwoods Snowman 09-10-2012 06:24 PM


Originally Posted by freegdr (Post 2011832)
Not thru the axle no

What?

I have no idea what you're trying to do, but if it's 1.0 degrees out you need to adjust 1.0 degrees. If you were talking linear measurements to either side of the rim then you would split the difference but when talking angles the center line of the wheel does not change.

rompnXJ 09-10-2012 06:28 PM


Originally Posted by freegdr (Post 2011730)
If camber is 1.0 degree out you bring it back 0.5 correct bringing top in also pushes bottom out ?

a couple questions, are you starting with negative or positive camber; and how exactly are you going about changing it?

if your camber is (-)1.0 you would bring it to (-) .5 by pushing the top out and the bottom in.

if your camber is +1.0 then you would bring it to +.5 by pushing the top in and the bottom out.

but that is assuming the actual point of adjustment is near the wheel centerline.
if it was a 911 for example, with the front camber adjustment located up high at the strut tower mount, correcting negative camber would bring the top out but the bottom would stay pretty much where its at.

sthon 09-10-2012 06:33 PM

Maybe car5car will chime in with his infinite alignment knowledge.

car5car 09-10-2012 06:48 PM


Originally Posted by sthon (Post 2011927)
Maybe car5car will chime in with his infinite alignment knowledge.

I don't understand his question, some commas would probably help.
There are many smart mechanics here.

freegdr 09-10-2012 06:49 PM


Originally Posted by rompnXJ (Post 2011921)
a couple questions, are you starting with negative or positive camber; and how exactly are you going about changing it?

if your camber is (-)1.0 you would bring it to (-) .5 by pushing the top out and the bottom in.

if your camber is +1.0 then you would bring it to +.5 by pushing the top in and the bottom out.

but that is assuming the actual point of adjustment is near the wheel centerline.
if it was a 911 for example, with the front camber adjustment located up high at the strut tower mount, correcting negative camber would bring the top out but the bottom would stay pretty much where its at.

In or out you half what you have and it brings it to 0 or you move the whole 1 deg ..to get 0

freegdr 09-10-2012 06:52 PM


Originally Posted by car5car (Post 2011956)
I don't understand his question, some commas would probably help.
There are many smart mechanics here.

,,,,,,,,,,,, that better lol

rompnXJ 09-10-2012 06:59 PM


Originally Posted by freegdr (Post 2011965)
In or out you half what you have and it brings it to 0 or you move the whole 1 deg ..to get 0

well lets say right now, your left front wheel has -1.0 degrees of camber. the top of the wheel is closer to the body and the bottom of the wheel is farther from the body. if you wanted to bring that to 0, you would have to move the entire 1 degree. you would do that by bringing the top of the wheel farther away and the bottom closer.

im not sure if you're measuring on a rack or with an angle gauge, but if you put it on a rack you'll see that very rarely does a manufacturer ever specify a dead flat 0.0 degrees of camber, it's usually set around -.3 or -.5 because a small amount of negative camber promotes more predictable handling. i hope that helps

freegdr 09-10-2012 07:05 PM


Originally Posted by rompnXJ (Post 2011981)
well lets say right now, your left front wheel has -1.0 degrees of camber. the top of the wheel is closer to the body and the bottom of the wheel is farther from the body. if you wanted to bring that to 0, you would have to move the entire 1 degree. you would do that by bringing the top of the wheel farther away and the bottom closer.

im not sure if you're measuring on a rack or with an angle gauge, but if you put it on a rack you'll see that very rarely does a manufacturer ever specify a dead flat 0.0 degrees of camber, it's usually set around -.3 or -.5 because a small amount of negative camber promotes more predictable handling. i hope that helps

yes thats the answer i was looking for . That - camber would be set from factory assembling 4x4 solid front axle correct.?

rompnXJ 09-10-2012 07:15 PM

well yes, but the only way that the manufacturer sets the camber from the factory is by making sure the axle they installed isnt bent lol

i cant think of anyway to adjust camber on a solid axle that doesnt involve a torch and a BFH haha. maybe some sort of aftermarket adjustable balljoint setup ?? how are you adjusting it

DFlintstone 09-10-2012 07:34 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I once put two screws in a wooden level, 14 inches apart. (to contact the K car rim), one out 5/16 inch from the other, to set the 5/16 inch negative camber. (top in).

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