I picked up a 99 Cherokee non 4WD 6cyl for my dad a few months ago with 176,000 miles on it. I don't know much about it's prior history other than it belonged to a vet's office. It's in good shape, never wrecked, engine bay is clean except for the valve cover and oil pan leaking. It appears to have a new / replacement sensors on the throttle body, except for the MAP. I have replaced the cap, rotor, front parking cable, valve cover gasket, and plugs. Wiggled / checked the wires on the CPS, and both oxg sensors. I have also hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and drove it around town waiting for it to stall out. Fuel pressure readings were 42-50 bouncing cold startup, 48- 51 idle @ 210, 49 even at 1800rpms @ 210.
He's what's going on : cold or warm outside ,engine warm or cold it will drive fine then stall out in motion. Sometimes the tach will drop out as the engine starts shutting down, check engine light comes on for a second, and it will refire itself at 55mph ( ign key never touched). Or like this morning it will cut off in Auto Zone parking lot backing up, cycle the key, engine turns over no fire, leave the key on and in about 20-30 sec check engine light comes on it reprimes the fuel pump and it starts.


I've switched the relay for the fuel pump with the fog light / no change.
Any ideas, I feel bad because I picked this veh out for my 72yr old father, and it's left him stranded before. I replaced the valve cover as soon as it came home, so I don't know if this was a pre existing problem, ie, why it was traded in to the dealership, or if I started it with the valve cover.

 

My 99 would cut out and buck while driving when my CPS was going out. Somewhere here there's a way to meter\test it out. If that is the problem I suggest you do not get one from Auto zone. I'm on my third one from them, they are poop..
Just my experience...

 

Agree, CPS is the #1 suspect, but the first thing to do is see which code(s) you have stored.

 

Leaky valve cover is pretty standard, I agree see if there are any codes waiting for you. If you DO pull a CPS-related code do yourself a favor and get a Mopar sensor. AutoZone ones have been known to be 5 DOAs in a row.

 

Thanks for the help, so Auto Zone is out, Napa lists there CPS as OEM stuff are they good to go? Advance Auto? O Reilly's?

 

Everyone here will tell you to buy an OEM CPS from the dealer.
It will cost you about $70. OEM only for sensors.
Don't cheap out on parts that can leave you stranded.

 

I would trust NAPA Echlin (Echlin is their premium line, while Mileage Plus is their economy line).

 

THIS

 

Thanks , Napa had what I needed this morning, also no codes showed up on the scanner at AutoZone.

 

CPS failure without codes is actually common. I just got my "new" '99 Cherokee running for the first time after a crank sensor swap. You would think the ECM would be smart enough to figure out that there is a cam sensor signal but no crank signal and then set a code, but this isn't always the case...

Agreed with the dealer-part sentiment. In my case it was actually cheaper - Carquest wanted almost $200 for one, while the dealership wanted $80. Parts are always more expensive here in Canada...

 

Man. Wish I had a dealer like yours... the one here would probably want $400.

 

Why don't you call and find out?
I bet it's under $100
Part number 5602 7866

 

He's in Canada... They tend to be ****ed on pricing for everything it seems like.

 

Yep. $18 for a single hub bolt.

Just for Shats & Giggles I'll give the parts desk a ring on Monday and inquire.

 

Napa's CPS is in and after a short road trip no issues. I'll do an extend trip tomorrow, thanks for the help guys.