hey guys.. long time listener, first time caller...

i built up a nice little cherokee for my kid last fall which he promptly rubed up against a tree and wiped out the passenger side...

i recently bought a nice 1990 laredo with a nice body and a junk engine...

ive swapped the long blocks out using the old flywheel , manifolds, dist ect...

i cant get this thing to run right to save my life , i barely runs and acts like its a tooth off...

ive had a wrench in my hand for most of my adult life and this thing is kicking my a$$...ive indexed the dist in about every way imagineable

just thought id throw it out there and see if i could get an expert opinion...


thanks much....

 

So..you put the '98 block into the '90 but kept all the other '90 parts like heads, intake, etc? You've checked the rotor position with cyl #1 at TDC?

 

Did you get the ground wires hooked up to a clean and shiny dipstick tube stud?


Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.
Revised 07/03/2012

 

grounds are hooked up , dist is installed and lined up per the manual... i wasnt sure if there were compatbility issues with the dist into the newer motor...

 

I just swapped a 98 into my 92 and I had to cut off one of the ears on my dist in order to get it indexed properly. It was actually a bit of a pita to get the damn thing indexed.

 

i heard you

id be embarassed to say how many hours i got into this little issue...

which way did you have to turn it to get it running right?

 

I think it ended up one tooth off clockwise. I plan on replacing the the dist soon as it bounces around a bit, the original dist in the 98 didn't so I don't think it's the cam.

 

did yo switch over the computer system because the 1990 and 1998 computer systems are completely different and wont run the engine correctly

 

the idle bounces around?

 

No, the distributor itself moves around.

 

How do you figure?

 

cool... thanks....

ill go play around with it some more...

 

Not necessary at all.

Here's why:

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.
　
Revised 07/24/2012
　

 

I had that on a reman distributor and it turned out the shaft was a bit too long. It was getting pushed down in to the oil pump too far and tightening the distributor clamp made it wobble. I ground down the end of the distributor shaft.

 

It looks like that might be the case, kind of strange since this is the OEM dist out of the '92 engine. I guess maybe there is a slight difference on the '98 block or it's because of the high flow oil pump. Either way it's a 20 year old dist and it shows. I'll be replacing it today.