Hmmmm. Mine was the high flow pump also..

 

Wouldn't happen to be a sealed power pump?

http://napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...505_0191882089

 

Don't remember.

 

still cant get it to run right...

should i have swapped balancers?

 

Nope.

 

the idle is rough and it wont R up at all...
it still runs like its a tooth off but ive tried indexing it every way imaginable..

 

Have you read the second part of Post #3 about indexing the distributor?

Does this help you?

Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC
　
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark them with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.

 

yea i saw that... it wont even start when its 180 out...
i removed the retaining bolt at idle and tried turning the dist to see if i could get any improvement either way and i couldnt...

it sure seems like its a tooth off tho, or i picked up a miss somehow during the swap... but i drove both of em into the driveway...

 

appreciate the help guys...

got home today and got back to basics...

fuel press checked good , ohms tested the CPS and it checked out...

replaced cap , rotor, wires and plugs...

ive figured out the 3 & 4 have no spark...

any ideas?

Thanks

 

Do these help?

BTW, If you have spark at all, I don't suspect your CPS, but the ohms test is not a good one to use.

 

the wires are good...

im not getting why 3 & 4 arent getting any spark... wierd...

 

3&4? I believe the Renix CPS picks up a signal from the flywheel every 60 degrees. Cylinders 3 and then 4 fire on 180 degrees rotation- thus would use the same trigger point on the flywheel, no? Is your flywheel damaged?

 

It IS 1&6 3&4, and 2&5. I'd sure think it is something simple though..if that trigger wasn't working could that be picked up at the injector pulse?

 

That SHOULD be able to be checked by checking for AC voltage while cranking using an analog meter, right?

 

not that im aware of...i swapped it from a running engine...
that flywheel bolt pattern looked like it only went on one way..