crazyangels

Maybe a little help from all you out there.
my 97' has decided to give me a headache today. This XJ had been pretty much trouble free, but today I put the key in and nothing. I have plenty of power out of the battery, all lights go on, I turn the key and no crank. The only thing I see is that if the radio is on, it kills it when I turn the key.

I have checked voltage 12.4 volts, 12.05 when I turn the key.

Tried to start it in Neutral and nothing, then back to park and nothing.

tried with different starter relays and nothing.

Removed the starter and took it in to get tested. It passed all 3 tests they did on it. So now on my way into the garage to re-install the starter.

Any ideas would be much welcomed. Thanks

Jorge

1976Mustang

The radio turning off when you turn the key is normal, at least it is in my '92. So that shows that the key cylinder is fine.
Could be the sensor that checks that the brake peddle is being pressed, if '97's even had those.

jakbob

search for Neutral Safety switch. it could have gone bad and is telling your computer that youre "in gear" when you arent, which would lead to a no crank.

crazyangels

Thank you both, on my way to check it again.

Got the starter re-installed and no go!!!.

Tried to shift thru all gears a few times to see if I could unseat the NSS. and won't start on neutral or park. I should say it won't crank at all...

Any other thoughts from you XJ lovers that may have encountered this issue, it would be very much appreciated.

4.0 automatic

crazyangels

I've also cleaned alll terminals and inspected all the battery wires along with using a Digital VOM

tjwalker

My bet is still the neutral safety switch. They can often be "refurbished" to return full function. If the NSS is acting up, it will absolutely inhibit juice from making it to your starter.

Here's a link on the "how-to".

http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/

crazyangels

Thank you very much, I'll pull it out and do some refurb on it. I found it available here in town and it's going new for $300.00. Wow! sure way to try and get money out of you.. such a basic switch should cost anymore than $50.00.

Well time to wrench some more.. I'll let you all know how it goes.

crazyangels

Thank you all for the help, I just completed refurb of the NSS and found it to take care of two issues.
1. The engine cranked right over and started
2. We had been having a little nagging issue with having to crank it quite a bit to get it to start most of the time. This time no matter how many times I started it, it started as soon as I hit the key.

tjwalker The link you provided is very instructional and gives more than plenty of information on how to take care of business.

Findings were that one of the contacts on the sweeper arm, had gotten stuck compressing the small spring, since the spring is very little and not strong, it could not overcome the strength of the hard heavy grease in the switch. That is why there was no connection and no signal for the engine to start.

This problem has been solved, now onto bigger and better things to do.

tjwalker

Glad I could help. You mentioned that earlier you had a problem with an extended crank time. If this issue comes back (and I think it might), you may have a problem with a check valve on your fuel pump assembly. Very common on 97. Here is more.
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The check valves (there are two of them; one on the fuel pressure regulator and another on the fuel pump) are part of the fuel pump assembly on 95.5-2001 vintage 4.0 XJs. When a check valve starts to fail, it can reduce fuel pressure to a point where an extended cranking time is needed to start the engine. It is a very common failure. I experienced it on my 99 at around 75K.

A good (and simple) first step in helping you troubleshoot this problem is called “the poor mans prime”

1. Turn key to ON position (do not crank the engine!)
2. The fuel pump will energize and run for a couple of seconds
3. Turn key to OFF position
4. Repeat above steps 1-3 two more times
5. NOW crank the engine over

If the engine starts quickly and cleanly after performing this procedure, you may have a check valve issue. If it starts and runs poorly for a few seconds, it could also be a leaky fuel injector resulting in the fuel pressure leaking down and the subsequent stumble upon startup is the engine clearing the excess fuel that has leaked into the cylinder because of the faulty injector.

Also be aware that a bad battery can give you starting symptoms as well. Have your battery load tested (any parts store will do this for free) if you have any doubt; your XJ does NOT like low available battery voltage. Be sure battery connections and posts are CLEAN.

Some troubleshooting tips for extended crank times. You will need a fuel pressure gauge. Many parts stores will rent you this tool inexpensively.

*Hook up fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail under the hood

*Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.

*Observe fuel pressure gauge. Normal operating pressure should be 49.2 psi (plus or minus 5 psi)

*Shut engine off.

*Observe pressure on gauge. Pressure should not fall below 30 psi for five minutes.

If pressure falls below 30 psi, it must be determined if a fuel injector, a check valve within the
fuel pump assembly, or a fuel tube/line is leaking. An adaptor tool/hose included with the fuel pressure gauge can help you with this. Consult the manual that comes with the fuel pressure gauge and the Factory Service Manual for your year XJ for more information on this exact procedure, but here is basically how it works:

*Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line at the adaptor hose. Watch the pressure gauge and see how long it takes to lose pressure.

*If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank – most likely a check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably a leaky fuel injector.

**Note. Where check valve is suspect, a quick loss of fuel pressure is often the fuel pressure regulator check valve and a slow loss of pressure is often the fuel pump check valve. But keep in mind that either or both check valves can be to blame.

You can limp a check valve problem along indefinitely if you like, as it doesn't mean the fuel pump itself is going to fail. Perform the “poor mans prime” before cranking to speed up your starts. However, if you have a check valve issue and want to resolve it, it is recommended that you replace the entire fuel pump assembly for two reasons. First, you have to drop the gas tank to access the assembly. Secondly, with two check valves, replacing just the fuel pressure regulator where one of the check valve resides may or may not resolve your problem; remember there are two check valves; the other one is on the fuel pump.

The fuel pump assembly consists of fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel gauge sending unit, fuel gauge float, pickup filter and pigtail wiring harness. If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, purchase a high quality unit; you do get what you pay for here. Some cheap aftermarket assemblies have been known to fail prematurely. I personally prefer Bosch fuel pumps as they manufacture the best fuel pump assemblies for the XJ. Carter is my second choice. Airtex is my least favorite choice and I will not recommend or install them.

crazyangels

Thank you so much TJWALKER, Truly a very awesome thing for you to have provided me the noted information. I have copied it and filed it in my computer so that I have quick access to it if and when this issue comes back. If you ever find yourself out in Central California, do look me up and I'll be more than happy to welcome you into our humble home.

Again thanks.

Jorge Q

Jay reed

I'm having the same problem with my 2001 Grand Cherokee, I understand the NSS and how to refurb it my question is does it still suppose to have fuel coming to the fuel rail or is that a different problem?

Richie B

I have the same problem initially described in this forum; no crank and no start.

1. The key turns on all electronics, once I turn it past accesory and try to start it I get silence.
2. Battery is fully charged, I am able to get it running by jumping starter terminals.
3. The neutral safety switch bypass trick did not work. (Saw the video on you tube)

How would I narrow the problem down to ignition switch, key/key chip? It was freezing cold in the single digits when the issue occured. Thank you in advance.