So I removed the doors off of my 2000 XJ yesterday. Went smooth, its actually really easy to do. I removed the pins and left the hinges unmodified. For now I am using quick pins and they work great, door alignes decent and all that. I have all power options so I took the screws out of the kickplate and removed the rubber from the door where the wires feed through. So all I have to do now when removing the doors is diconnect them from the sockets and pull them through the hole. Piece of cake. I dont know why people even bother with making disconects. I rather just remove the kickplate. It takes 10 seconds. Anyway, My question is this: after removing the doors and disconecting the wiring the rear windows dont work. Is this because the electricals are on a closed circuit and its either all working or none? Is there a way to send the signal so that the rear still go up and down without the front doors being pluged in? Or am I missing something and that is why you make disconects ? Any help would be appreciated.

 

It's prob cause of the master window switch. There is a little harness that you can bypass down behind that kick panel you removed it has a yellow, beige and black wire going into It. Use a paper clip to jump the yellow and beige wire together. It's totally safe and works to allow passengers to use their windows if/when the master window switch stops working properly. So my thought is that this will essentially allow you to keep operating the rear windows! If ya need a pic I'll post one..

 

Power to the rear window motors goes through the drivers switch panel. With the door removed/ switch panel removed, there is no way for the power to get to the back doors. Im not sure how to bypass that but dig into the wiring diagram/ schematics and trace wires from the fuse block to the drivers switch assembly. From there figure out what wire(s) power the back doors and do up a jumper of some sort. Or you can straight wire power to the rear switches. Just run a wire from the fuse block to the "power in" terminal on the rear switch. That is how I trouble shoot window switches/ motors anyways and its easy to do if you can use a multi meter or a test light.

 

Ha! VT, you beat me to it!

 

Exactly what I was looking to hear. I am not good with electricals but I know which harness you are talking about. I will jump it tonight. If you have pics I would love to see that just to make sure I am doing it correctly. Thanks a bunch

 

Ok. 3 min... Gotta move over to the iPod where pic is!

 

This little guy right here

Edit. I got sick of using etape to hold it in place, so I just snipped, stripped and soldered a short piece of speaker wire between the two. Solid and legit. I'll have to go snap my own pic of that (the pic here is not my own, just FYI..)

 

Now that's solid info. Couldn't be easier. Thanks a bunch.

 

Not tring to steal the post but Im having kinda the same problem but with my pass door.
This link is for my door locks. that need help also
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/sandman4182/?action=view¤t=HTC1301.mp4


This is for the Windows
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/sandman4182/?action=view¤t=HTC1304.mp4


Please help. FYI I like Pictures to help.

 

I saw somebody recently who moved all their buttons (windows/mirrors/locks) to the dash left of tgr steering wheel. Kinda cool I thought.

 

His is because of removing doors. It's different from your issue. Wish I could help you.