svfd7101xj

hey guys im writing because i have a 96 xj that wont start i have no fuel and no spark but plenty of crank ive gone through the fuses relays and the cps i dont want to dump much money into it because all i use it for is a mud runner any help would be great..

spyder93xj

I have the same exact problem and nobody seems to have an answer.

DeadCellM60

There could be a thousand things going on here guys. My only advice would be to start at the beginning of each system and work toward the engine from there. So in the case if your fuel problem start with the fuel pump itself and in the case of your spark start at the coil or distributor.

It's all guess and check until we have some more information to work with.

KD3NE

96 is OBDII, have you checked it for any codes, even if the CEL is off?

.

tjwalker

JEEP 4.0 ENGINE TURNS OVER BUT DOES NOT START:

This was written to address some common causes of a no-start condition on the Jeep 4.0. The recommendations here assume that the vehicle was not worked on prior to the no-start and that it wasn’t submerged in water, etc. If you have seen a check engine light, pull the codes for clues as to related problems. Always use the technology provided to you by your Jeep and its computer. It also assumes that your battery is in good condition and can provide enough voltage to start and run the engine. Load test the battery if there is any doubt. Load testing is the only accurate way to determine battery condition.

The strategy here is to use a common sense testing approach in finding root cause. Be aware that there are other problems that can result in a no-start; the recommendations provided are not comprehensive, but are a good starting point and may help you resolve your problem.

“Throwing parts” at a problem (such as a no-start) on a hunch may eventually work, but more often, it results in frustration and extra unnecessary expense. A methodical process of elimination by testing is much more efficient. I recommend everybody performing their own troubleshooting own a good repair manual and an electrical multi-meter as testing is oftentimes needed. These two items are a very inexpensive investment on repairing your XJ.

The Jeep Cherokee like other vehicles needs three things to run: Fuel, spark, and compression. For most no-start situations, compression is not the cause. If you suspect that it might be, run a compression test on all cylinders. Initially concentrating on fuel and ignition (spark) makes good sense, with compression testing recommended if fuel/spark check out.

On fuel injected 4.0 engines, the fuel pump will energize and run for a couple of seconds and then stop when the key is first switched to the ON position. If the pump does not run, check the wiring to the fuel pump. You can also remove the fuel pump relay and use a jumper wire in the attempt to energize the fuel pump or swap relays in the power distribution center (under the hood) after confirming that they are of the same part number.

Fuel pressure can be checked with the use of a fuel pressure tester connected to the test port (called a schrader valve; looks like a tire valve) on the injector rail. Compare your reading to factory spec for your year vehicle as pressures DO vary between years.

If you suspect a fuel delivery problem, a quick and dirty way to see if you have a fuel delivery problem is to spray some starting fluid into the throttle body. If the engine fires and runs momentarily, you have a fuel delivery problem, not a spark problem.

Some early vintage XJs have a normally white or cream colored ballast resistor on the drivers side fenderwell. The ballast resistor was designed to reduce noise in the fuel pump. A common symptom of a faulty ballast resistor is that the engine starts with the key in the crank position, but when you release the key, the engine dies. The ballast resistor can be bypassed by running a jumper wire between the two connection points on the resistor. If the engine runs when the ballast resistor is bypassed, replace ballast resistor or you can just leave the resistor bypassed if you like. The ballast resistor was eliminated in later model XJs (after 93)

If you have the proper fuel pressure at the fuel rail and still the engine will not fire, you are probably missing the “spark” part of the starting equation. Pull a spark plug, keep it attached to the spark plug wire. Place the plug electrode near a good engine ground and have a buddy crank the engine. CAUTION: Secondary ignition voltage can shock you! Never hold or touch a spark plug wire while cranking the engine! Look for a strong, blue snapping BLUE spark. Orange or yellow colored spark indicates a weak spark and may not be enough to start the engine. If you have no spark or a weak spark, concentrate on ignition related causes.

The Crankshaft position sensor is located on the bell housing on the left (drivers) side of the engine. It is referred to as the CKP or oftentimes informally referred to as the CPS. Without this basic reference signal, you will not have spark or fuel to the injectors. It is a very common sensor fail on the Jeep 4.0 It can be tested; most manuals cover this procedure. There is also a connector for the crank sensor inside the engine bay near the firewall #6 injector. Check for a good connection at this point; reseating and cleaning of that connector and the connector on the sensor itself with a spray can of electrical contact cleaner may restore electrical contact, allowing the engine to start. Also, check the wires leading to the sensor itself as they can be damaged/burnt. Wiring damage is more common when an engine has been swapped.

The camshaft position sensor is located inside the distributor housing. It is sometimes informally referred to as the “stator” or “pickup coil”. The computer uses the signal from the camshaft position sensor in conjunction with the crankshaft position sensor to determine spark timing, among other things. It can be tested; most manuals cover this procedure. Inspect wiring related to the cam sensor closely. Also note that there are several ground wires that connect to the back of the engine block near the distributor. If these grounds wires are loose, the computer can malfunction.

Other hardware that can contribute to a no-start is the distributor cap and rotor located inside of the distributor. Remove the distributor cap, inspect (sometimes there are hairline cracks that are tough to see) and verify that the contacts of the rotor are making contact with the cap and the tip is not excessively burned. Test ignition coil and associated hardware with a meter for primary and secondary resistance. Ignition switches can also be responsible for a no-start.