I need help please. I'm at my wits end on trying to figure out why my 96XJ has a intermittent stall / cut out problem. After the Jeep is warmed up, when sitting at idle, it intermittently try's to stall out unless of course I give it gas. When I let it go ahead and stall out, it will start right back up again with no problems. Also, when I'm driving at regular cruising speed, I can feel, and hear the engine try to cut out but just for a split second or so. I have changed out the entire Fuel Pump Assembly, IAC, and CPS as I was having a starting issue which has now gone away, Jeep starts up just fine now. I've tried to read the codes, but just can't get the hang of reading the flashes and pause.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the culprit might be? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys!

 

Some things you could do that would help:

1. Get and OBD2 scanner so that you can see fuel trims, and throttle position data. As well as read/reset codes.
2. Monitor fuel pressure and spark at idle to see which is dropping out when the vehicle stalls (this will give you a direction to go in)

If the throttle position sensor is reading incorrectly, it can keep the computer from commanding the IAC to maintain idle air flow. Causing stalls at idle. A faulty IAC can do this as well (possible bad part installed?) However, at cruising speed the IAC problem wouldn't normally come into play unless it is when you are totally off the gas pedal.

 

Thanks for responding. My 96 is not ODB2 equipped. I have to do it the old way of reading the check engine light flashes and pauses which I am not good at figuring out. I've ordered a TPS and I'm going to try to see if that may be it. Yeah, I replaced the IAC two times, its was part of my starting problem I had when I was dealing with my fuel pump issue. Believe I got a bad one the first time I replaced it, sure hope its not that again. Thanks for the info on it not being the IAC at cruise. Could the TPS be the problem at cruising speed?

Thanks for your help.

 

Look under the hood left fender well near PCM. Do you see a connector that looks like this will plug into it?

 

I don't see it, could be overlooking it for all I know.
Thanks anyhow....

 

If you don't have OBD II then you have OBD I and that connector is in there somewhere. It might be covered with a plug. Getting those codes will make troubleshooting much easier.

 

I'll try looking for it again. Really starting to get weary of dealing with issue after issue, been fighting problems for a year now. May be time to just put it out to pasture, and get some other piece of junk to fight.
Thanks for your help.

 

you should have OBD2, the plug is 18 pin trapezoid shaped, under the dash, near your knee

my new OBD2 reader calls it out as OBD1, but my old scanner reads OBD2 codes

date on Brass plate on firewall April '96

could also be the cam sensor, if that has not been replaced

 

Not necessarily. There are reports of 96s built up to at least 12/95 as having OBDI:

https://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1079114

 

How many plugs do you have on your ECM? If there are 3 you should be obd2

 

I found it guys, I do have a OBD2, found the plug under the dash, thought it was more visible than it is. I knew I was suppose to have it being a 96. I've been thinking I had OBD1 this entire time hence why I've been trying to read the check engine light flashes/pauses.

Can you tell me why the IAC has the round pins which to me is OBD1 and the CPS I did, has the blade pins which I think of as OBD2?
Remember, I'm a girl trying to learn to do it myself since my old man died, so no laughing at me.

But anyhow, I cleaned the throttle body last night. Jeep ran good today but then again I nursed it, by putting it in neutral at the long lights, and giving it some gas just to make sure, and it didn't stall on me.. And, it didn't cutout today while driving at cruising speed either.

Been looking at scan tools now that I know I have OBD2 (Yay!) which reasonably cheap one do you guys recommend?

Thanks for any input.

 

Read this link, and seems the 96 is a mix of OBD1 and OBD2, so I'm not out of my mind, right?
Thanks for posting this.

 

The connector types are not a good indicator of obd1 vs. obd2. That was just a general upgrade that chrysler was going through as the 96 transitioned into the 97. Because they were using up existing components as they moved over to the new ones, the 96 years tends to be a mixed bag for components and connectors. Really pays to check connectors before ordering parts. It also means that I have to keep 95, 96, and 97 in all of my parts filters.

 

Yep, that's what I basically have been doing. Just snapped while I was dealing with this issue, that in fact I do have both styles of connectors.
I've been saving my old parts, just in case I happen to need something that works better than whats in the Jeep at the time something happens.

 

So now with a pen and paper on the steering wheel perform the key dance and mark each flash individually. If it flashes once mark a 1 then if it flashes twice mark a 2. Code 12. Then there will be a long pause between the next code. Or purchase an obd2 reader be sure it can show you "live data" as you will need it as some point.

-If the codes dont help use the live data to view TPS percentage with key on engine off. Open the throttle slowly and observe the smooth increase in throttle angle.
-observe the coolant temp sensor output.
-observe the MAP sensor output.
-If that doesnt help unplug the o2 sensors and start the vehicle.
-Plug the o2 sensors back in an pull off one of the vacuum lines for the emissions system to create a vacuum leak. Start the vehicle.