I have no idea what they did when they cut out the Cat, I'll have to have a look and see what they done, definitely don't want it caught up in the rear driveshaft.
I'm going to change out the engine temp sensor tomorrow, and see if that may fix my problem. While I'm at it, I'll get underneath and have a look.
Thanks everyone.

 

Okay guys,

Went to replace the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. I obviously do not have the standard Eng Temp Sensor sold by many of the brands for my XJ. Can someone tell me where to get one that looks like what I have, what I bought does not fit. The connectors are completely different.

This is the old one

Old one

The new one
This damn Jeep is killing me....
My bad for not checking before I bought it.

Any help??? Thanks!

 

Many of the connectors on the 96 changed over to the 97 style connectors in the middle of the 96 run.

The older ones are "oval" and the newer ones are "rounded rectangle". But don't assume that -every- connector under your hood is rounded-rectangle. You'll need to check them individually.

If you get a engine coolant temp sensor for a 97 it will be the correct connector type.

I don't know how/where you get your parts. But for websites like amazon and rockauto I always have to have a profile setup for both a 96 and 97 xj so that I can get the right parts.

 

So it wouldn't be that I need to change out the connector wiring then, correct? And what I have is a 97, you know that by the pics I posted?

I'll just go look when my computer quits screwing with me.
Thanks

 

Confirmed, I'm an idiot. Whats bad is I know that's a problem with the 96. Thanks for your time Jordan96XJ. I'm going to set up a 97 XJ on RockAuto.

 

Here is the one I bought as a backup for my vehicle. I have not installed it, but it is the correct sensor. I have a 96, but I used a 97 parts search to locate it:

 

Wow, that's cheaper than what RockAuto has the Standard for. But I just went ahead and bought locally, tired of waiting on parts, want to get my junk fixed.
I have my 96 set up on Amazon too, guess I'll do a 97 as well. Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.

 

Got the correct Temp Sensor today and replaced it, so we'll see if it helps with my problem. And, my back O2 sensor connector and wiring are zip tied up out of the way of the driveshaft. Gonna just leave it that way for now, and just deal with the code, I know I'm missing out on other things in regards to emissions and such, but for now, it is what it is.

 

Well the Temp Sensor didn't fix my problem. The Jeep didn't do any cut out/ stall at a light today, instead today it decides its going to do it while I'm going 60 at 2 grand, Did it about 4 times in row, its starts cutting out, but not shutting down completely, but losing power and jerking me in my seat. So I don't know what its problem is, but the damn thing is about to end up in the river.

 

Go back to post #2 (the first reply) and perform item 2.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/96-...9/#post3551331

The fact that it does it at idle is helpful so you have a good chance of catching it in the act. If you are not able to test for spark or fuel pressure, you may need to visit a mechanic.

If you want to fire the parts cannon with no testing, you'll have to take your chances that it is not a wiring/ground problem and replace the Ignition Coil, Camshaft Position Sensor, Crankshaft Position Sensor (again, with Mopar part), and Fuel Pump. These are the likely culprits, but even replacing them all would be just rolling dice.

 

I know you're right, I'll have to see if I can test for spark and fuel pressure with my scanner, already know I'm just throwing parts at it. Done did the Fuel Pump because I needed one, replaced the CPS along the way when I was having trouble with Fuel Pump, and ended up needing a complete Fuel Pump assembly. So, I've already been thinking maybe its the ignition coil or the cam shaft position sensor. I am gambler by choice because none of the repair shops around me are worth a ****, or I'd have them do it and not fool with it at all. I am not a Mechanic! Just thought I might get lucky and perhaps replace the right thing.

Thank as always, Jordan96XJ

 

sounds like you are doing ok man, it will happen to us all, some electronic problem, truth is unless the mechanic is a gun, a mate, or knows XJ, its not good anywhere

seen a few guys sort some wicked issues recently, including PCM failures, some parts canon artillery is almost inevitable

keep at it!

any vehicle of this age can get pretty tricky to maintain, takes some learning, so having something else as a backup DD is good

know a guys picks up death row XJs (and many others) for $crap, often has them going in a few hrs, then flips them for $2-6K

 

Fuel pressure isn't tracked by the computer. So it won't be available via your scanner. It is measured mechanically via the test port on the fuel rail, using a fuel pressure gauge.

awg is right. Sometimes, parts cannon is inevitable for the DIY mechanic. One way to make it work is to build up a collection of known-good spare parts. That way the money sunk into parts is not really wasted. But even with this strategy, the basic diagnostics will save a lot of time swapping parts that can't possibly help. For example, swapping a fuel pump when the vehicle has a spark/ignition problem.

 

Well, if you must throw parts at it, I would start with the ignition coil, distributor cap and pickup sensor, and might as well do the spark plug wires, especially the one that connects to the ignition coil. There's are ground wire buried in the stud that holds it in place so check that too.

 

I still want to know your scan gauge live data while key on engine off and key on engine on idling at operating temp. Just these 2 sets of data may help get your problem resolved. Mechanical fuel pressure is important as well but let's say you have bad fuel pressure and the vehicle is stumbling/ shuting off at idle with high fuel trims that is important data. If your are idling with a TPS voltage of 60% this is also important. Maybe that new CTS reads -20degrees on a 60 degree day...which I've personally seen. If all operating data is within normal range that is still important. Bullet point list them.

What brand of CPS did you put into your XJ?
How does that downstream harness look?
Wrapped up in some electrical tape?
Bare wires showing?

Same goes for the upstream o2 harness. I had the signal wire from the upstream get pinched by the ecm bolt (obd1 ecu). Caused all sorts of chaos. But I started with back probing sensors to rule them out. Eventually leading me to a pinched wire.