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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
OP, did you check the wires? Battery cables and terminals? Look for worn wire sheathing, melted wires. Make sure all the connections are tight and clean, especially all the ground wires, there are like 6 ground wires in the engine bay (if I remember correctly).
But before you start any of this, park the Jeep in a safe place, let it idle, then go in the engine bay and start wiggling wires, see it you can get it to cut out. Give special attention to battery wires, PDC box wires, then work your way to the sensors wires. The way you describe the issue, it sounds like an electrical wire issue. I had something like this recently were I didn't tighten enough a connection nut in the PDC block and the Jeep started cutting out for no reason. After I tightened it, it was fine. Scared the hell out of me though.
Anyway, I have never been able to get my OBD II to read codes, either. But there was a thread recently about a guy who got it to work (I will try it eventually): https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/obd...issues-250780/
The connector types are not a good indicator of obd1 vs. obd2. That was just a general upgrade that chrysler was going through as the 96 transitioned into the 97. Because they were using up existing components as they moved over to the new ones, the 96 years tends to be a mixed bag for components and connectors. Really pays to check connectors before ordering parts. It also means that I have to keep 95, 96, and 97 in all of my parts filters.
agreed
My Torque OBD2 wont read live data and says my 4/96 is OBD1, but an old scanner reads OBD2 codes..this means it must be OBD2
It has a PCM part num 56041 282, as does my other 4/96
My 10/96 has a computer type 56041 293, havent put the Torque scanner on it yet
It is my understanding the last 2 digits are software upgrades, including communication protocols
I have a list of things that supposedly define OBD1/vs OBD2
dont know whether the key jiggery works on mine, I should try, as it has a disconnected rear O2 sensor, generating an P0138 code
The BAFX OBD2 bluetooth scanner will definitely read the 96 XJ. It is about $25. It has also communicated properly with all of my newer vehicles, and friend's newer vehicles. (hands-on experience using mine on Toyota, Subaru, Honda, Chrylser/Jeep, Chevy, etc).
Many of the cheap scanners have issues with the early OBD2 systems, because there were problems (and disagreements) with implementing the OBD2 data stream standard in those early years. That is why some of the scanners even have warnings (fine print) that say things like "works with any vehicle 2004 or newer" (or whatever). The scanner itself has to have been coded with some of the various manufacturer weirdness in mind in order to work. That is why I recommend the BAFX, because I know it works well on the older XJs.
One challenge with the 96 XJ, is the small number of PIDs (data items) available for monitoring via OBD2. But all the most important stuff is available (fuel trims, o2 voltages, coolant temp, throttle position, vacuum, rpm, intake air temp, etc)
I use AutoXray EZ Link. Originally cost about $200 (back in the last millennium). Reads Jeep OBD I 1991-1995 and OBD II 1996 up. The last programmable year is 2000 but I've read vehicles up to about 2006. Long obsoleted but used models can be found on eBay (right now there are 3 units from $40.00 to 90.00).
Of interest, I plugged an ELM327 sending unit into my Frontier thinking "Oh boy! These things are great! I'm going to just leave them in all my cars and instead of texting while I drive I'm going to watch my fuel trim while I drive!"
Next time I start the Frontier all the dash lights start pulsating.
Well guys I bought a Seekone scanner. The codes I'm getting are for my Engine Temp Sensor and for the back O2 sensor that I don't have anymore since I took my Catalytic Converter off and replaced with straight pipe. I replaced the front O2 sensor today, thinking that that was the one the scanner was reading, and then duh, realized its for the back one that I don't have. Anyhow, my intermittent cut out/half stall at idle is still there, don't know about the same issue while driving cause I just replaced it tonight. I can do live data with this scanner.
On the post by Cummins93, quote:
If the codes don't help use the live data to view TPS percentage with key on engine off. Open the throttle slowly and observe the smooth increase in throttle angle.
-observe the coolant temp sensor output.
-observe the MAP sensor output.
What the hell am I looking for it do, how do I know whats good or bad? What are the parameters I'm looking for? I have a new TPS, should I just try and see if that may be the problem?
On the post from OldTires, quote:
OP, did you check the wires? Battery cables and terminals? Look for worn wire sheathing, melted wires. Make sure all the connections are tight and clean, especially all the ground wires, there are like 6 ground wires in the engine bay (if I remember correctly).
But before you start any of this, park the Jeep in a safe place, let it idle, then go in the engine bayand start wiggling wires, see it you can get it to cut out. Give special attention to battery wires, PDC box wires, then work your way to the sensors wires.
I've done the PDC box wires, but haven't gotten to all of the ground wires yet. I do think I need a new battery terminal connector on my negative side, cause it will only tighten so much. Could that little bit of looseness be the problem? Its not like its coming off of the post.
When I get my new computer up and running in the next week, I'm going to try to post my live data on this thread. If anyone has suggestions, please fire away, and as always ANY help will be greatly appreciated.
You have a code for a temp sensor and a running issue that can be caused by a temp sensor. What is the data from the temp sensor live data? With your engine off and key on take open the throttle slowly. Your percentage reading should go from under 15 to over 80% smoothly.
The 96 requires a downstream oxygen sensor or it will throw a code. It will not affect fuel trims. You can install an oxygen sensor spacer which should keep the CEL off without a cat. Your oxygen sensor code was for a bank 1 sensor 2 right?
Well, that's good to know that the temp sensor may be causing my problems. I'll try to go check it out this weekend and see what my reading is. And yes, its the back O2 that's is giving the code for bank 1 sensor 2. Never knew about using a spacer. Don't care about it throwing the code, as long as I know that is not what is causing my idle/cut out issue. Thanks for the help!
Here is how I set up my rear oxygen spacer. If you are using it on a straight pipe you may opt to purchase a 45 degree one to keep the sensor wires away from the hot exhaust. Cheap stainless steel adapter, thread type 18mmx1.5
If you leave the CEL light on you may miss an issue the PCM is reporting because it is already illuminated. Also watch your rear o2 harness it easily gets caught up on the rear driveshaft if left unsecured.
Yes that is correct many of the spacers sold on Ebay have them included in the set up. Any exhaust shop will be able to install a bung in a pipe. If they refuse because federal law restricts them then mark where you want the bung and take the pipe down to them. If they question you tell them it is for an off road vehicle never to be driven on a public roadway. Pay in cash if needed.
Well, that's good to know that the temp sensor may be causing my problems. I'll try to go check it out this weekend and see what my reading is. And yes, its the back O2 that's is giving the code for bank 1 sensor 2. Never knew about using a spacer. Don't care about it throwing the code, as long as I know that is not what is causing my idle/cut out issue. Thanks for the help!
My 4/96 does not illuminate the engine check light, despite having the rear O2 sensor wires cut.
it registers a permanent P0138 code on one of my scanners (rear O2 sensor)
from my experience, & reading, that would not be the cause of engine performance issues (unless the wires are shorting)
04-16-2019, 06:54 AM
